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Electric Club Car Electric DS, and Precedent golf cars |
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07-24-2011, 11:45 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4
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club car electric diagnostic help
I have a older club car electric #a9233 296289 It has a problem sometimes when you accelerate it takes a couple times of pushing the accelerator to get it to go. The solenoid engages and it wants to go but doesn't. Then it will go.
But it has gotten worse. I think it maybe the black box after the solenoid before the electric engine. It only has one solenoid . the f-n-r switch seems to function properly. Any help would be appreciated. Can this black box be repaired or jumped bypassed or just need replaced. It is 36v and the batteries are less than a year old. When it does engage it runs great. |
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07-24-2011, 01:44 PM | #2 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,419
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Re: club car electric diagnostic help
Your 1992 CC has some micro switches on the F&R switch. Sounds like one is starting to fail? You can check them for continuity with a voltmeter when it is not working.
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07-24-2011, 04:50 PM | #3 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,391
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Re: club car electric diagnostic help
Do you have a black ( pie shaped unit ) under drivers seat on frame between batterys with multi HD cables running to large coil resistors, or a white box with red ends under drivers seat which contains 4-5 micro switches? That old a cart may have had many changes since new so need to confirm which pedal speed control you have to diagnose.
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07-24-2011, 08:48 PM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4
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Re: club car electric diagnostic help
I have the pie shaped box under the drivers seat and a black box behind the passenger side bolted in front of the motor. The batteries are fully charged.
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07-24-2011, 09:08 PM | #5 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,419
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Re: club car electric diagnostic help
Do you have a digital voltmeter to test continuity?
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07-25-2011, 08:21 AM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4
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Re: club car electric diagnostic help
yes I do ! What should I be looking for?
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07-25-2011, 08:52 AM | #7 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,391
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Re: club car electric diagnostic help
From what you say you must have a soliod state controller? and the wiring from pie shaped unit should be small guage wires CORRECT?? On the back of your pie shaped unit ( its called a V Glide unit ) are some very small electronic resistors that as pedal is pushed down vary speed control power to solid state controller.
In the interier of V Glide is a wiper arm with a brush attached that contacts different bars, that in turn go through resistors. Often the brush and or pressure spring get weak or worn causing poor connection. NOTE also inside V Glide is a micro switch that acts as a switch inline with micro on back of your F&R control that could be defective or stuck as this turns solenoid on when pedal is first pushed down. |
07-25-2011, 10:48 AM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4
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Re: club car electric diagnostic help
Old mec you are correct in the type of unit I have. The solenoid clicks when the v-glide is depressed. And I believe it has a solid state controller. How do I trouble shoot these. Your help is greatly appreciated.
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07-26-2011, 10:52 AM | #9 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,391
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Re: club car electric diagnostic help
I would recomend the removal of V Glide unit and completely clean and check condition. The contacts inside ( especially with low voltage electronic's ) it takes very little to make poor connections. There are 8 flat brass contacts inside that control through a wiper arm that has a brush mounted that moves as pedal is depressed. Any dirt or corrosion or pitting ( bars should be flat all the way across from one bar to next ) will cause poor connections? I find often that the spring in wiper arm gets weak and allows poor contacts through wiper arm travel.
While unit is off check resistance across from wiper arm wire to the top lead on last contact bar as it should read from 5K ohms ( pedal up ) to 0 ohms ( pedal down ). |
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