Ezgo throttle testing

[scottyb]

Ezgo throttle signal testing made easy

Wait ! - What is the throttle signal?
The throttle signal tells the speed controller how fast you want to go. The speed controller does this by limiting the motor's access to the battery bank (amperage storage).
The go pedal is connected to a potentiometer in the Marathon carts. This particular pot (short for potentiometer) has a signal range of 0-5000 ohms. This signal is often represented as 0-5kΩ and is easily tested using the ohm setting on your multi-meter.
Simply unplug the the 2 signal wires from the controller and plug your test leads in. Work the pedal up and down a few times to establish (average out) the range reading. A typical reading will be under 200 ohms with the pedal up and not over 5800 with the pedal down. Further out of range may cause problems. These units are susceptible to water damage. If wet they can be restored with a hairdryer.

Go here to see a short video on multi-meter selection and use.
Scottyb's Troubleshooting Tips

1994.5 and up Medalist and TXT use the induction throttle signal commonly known as ITS. This is a voltage system where the controller puts out the base throttle voltage and the pedal induction device (under the floor) reduces the signal voltage more and more as the pedal is depressed. This device is also subject to interference by water, see hair dyer tip above.

Below is the test procedures and results for all Alltrax controllers.
OEM Curtis controller. tests attached below. Results should be as follows:
DCS and Series carts have a signal range of 0.4-0.6v through 1.5-1.7v
PDS carts have a signal range of 1.0v (+/- 0.3v) through 2.7v (+/- 0.5v)

Throttle Voltage Check With Alltrax Controllers

To verify that the Inductive Throttle Sensor (ITS) is working correctly with the Alltrax controller you will need to measure the throttle inputs voltage at the controller and also at the ITS throttle to make sure they have the same readings.

Make sure the Cart is jacked up so you can run the wheels. Don't short between pins when doing measurements, you could damage the controller.

Alltrax DCX & NCX controllers, you need to pull the 10 or 6 pin connector back just enough to expose the pins to measure them. Make sure not to short any of the pins. With the key On, tow run On and the F/R in forward postion measure the voltage between the two throttle pins (see pictures below). You should see 10 volts. Press the Pedal down to the floor, full throttle and you should see 6 volts.

Alltrax SPM, SPB, AXE & NPX controllers, measure the voltage between the two throttle pins (see pictures below) with the key on and the peddle depress just enough to active at the foot switch. You should hear the solenoid close at this time and have a lit LED light. You should see 10 volts on the throttle pins. Press the Pedal down to the floor, full throttle and you should see 6 volts.


Out of range
If you are measuring 12 volts it is typically a bad ITS unit, and if you get 14 volts there is often a broken wire running to the throttle.

SPM-**** EZ Pins
SPM model Ezgo controllers the throttle pins are 2 & 3 on the left set, or 1 & 2 on the smaller pins on the right. Choose one set or the other to test. Note that for SPM controllers and ITS throttles you must use the included noise filter.


SR Control: B- to the small White Wire (usually on J4) with the solenoid just engaged it should be reading about 8-10V and at full throttle 6-5V, if you measure between J4 and J5 you should see 10-12V being output from the controller.

XCT Control: B- to the small white wire (Pin 1 on DCS carts, and the small white wire in the 4pin plug on PDS carts) just sitting there with everything powered should be 8-10V and at full pedal press 6-5V. Measuring between the black and white wire while the controller is powered up should result in a standing voltage of 10-12V

[scottyb]

Footnote #1
Ezgo Marathon has 4 wires (2 pairs) coming from the potentiometer. 2 wires carry the throttle signal to the speed control. 2 wires go to the reverse micro switch on the Forward and Reverse switch. When the F&R selector is in reverse this switch closes connecting these 2 wires which signals the pot to reduce the throttle signal by 50% so it puts out 0-2500 Ωs to provide slower operation in reverse.

[yurtle]

One potential problem area is a 4 wire Molex plug that connects the throttle box cable to the wiring harness. It seems to be more exposed than other Molex connectors, and corrosion can cause intermittent problems. Two of the wires are for the throttle microswitch, and two are for the ITS. In my case, I would sometimes get no solenoid activation, meaning one or both wires to the microswitch were not making good contact in the Molex connector. Other times the solenoid would "click", but it wouldn't go, meaning one or both wires to the ITS were not making good contact in the Molex connector.

This is easy to test, by simply unplugging and replugging the Molex connector. You may need to spray contact cleaner, then repeatedly plug/unplug/plug, etc.

I finally eliminated my Molex connector, and soldered and heat shrinked them. Butt splices are just as good.

[cgtech]

"butt splices are just as good"... Not to NASA standards (you know who you are, and we love you). Solder and seal all connections..... Or be right back where you were before, in a short while... Those "blue butt connectors" will leave you feeling blue when corrosion comes back to town.... (im Always chasing those factory TXT brake light wires).

[scottyb]

I have had good luck keeping corrosion out of butt connectors by filling the connector with Super Lube silicone dielectric grease prior to stuffing the wire in and crimping. The super lube comes in a gray squeeze tube.

[Golf cart guy]

Or heat shrink over the connector also works well

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by Golf cart guy

Or heat shrink over the connector also works well

Yes, especially that adhesive lined stuff. That seals out anything forever

[yurtle]

I should have specified, marine grade butt splices, which have built in heat shrink.

[deadeye reb]

Originally Posted by yurtle

I should have specified, marine grade butt splices, which have built in heat shrink.

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[ycis]

old thread...didnt see option to delete