07-27-2021, 04:24 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 19
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2013 Carryall 2 No Spark
Just picked up this cart a few days ago and trying to do some diagnostics on why I am not getting any spark. Read some blogs on this forum and was able to temporarily disconnect the bullet connector on the white/black wire (connector will be next to the oil fill tube) and got spark and cart started up. Based on what I read it says my lower microswitch with a black wire is probably bad. Problem is, my cart only has 1 microswitch (3 way switch), and it has a Red, Orange, and a brown wire connected to it. Just trying to figure out what is bad. Is it my coil? Is it a bad RPM limiter? I even looked at a wiring diapram for my cart, and it also shows 2 microswitches. Mine has 1 microswitch and then a round module next to it inside the black control box that has 5 or 6 wires connected to it. Not sure if previous owner made some changes but all the wires inside the black box seem to be original. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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07-27-2021, 05:24 PM | #2 |
Bonafide Nincompoop
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Charlottesburg Va
Posts: 8,987
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Re: 2013 Carryall 2 No Spark
It's a bit complicated to explain, but this is a Key start cart so you will only have the one limit switch, and the block next to it is a single pole double throw relay with two sets of contacts. The solenoid gets power when the key switch is turned to Start, this also engages the relay coil, which closes the NO contacts, and Opens the NC contacts.
The NC contacts are for ignition kill (spark kill wire) and will have a Black wire and a white wire with a black stripe. White/ black stripe is the wire going to the coil, Black is ground. When the relay is engaged the ground contacts should Open, and allow spark. Test the relay to see if it gets and maintains 12v on the Orange wire when the key is turned to start. Does the starter keep turning after you let go of the key? The limit switches on these carts are arranged as a self latching mechanism for the relay. Once the relay is engaged it powers itself and the main solenoid via the limit switch circuit, so the engine will stay running. If the relay does not stay engaged then we can dig into the limit switches. But if it Does stay engaged, (the starter keeps turning after letting go of the key) then we only need to figure out the ignition kill side, and can leave the limit switches alone for now. |
07-27-2021, 07:20 PM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 19
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Re: 2013 Carryall 2 No Spark
Thank you very much for your help, very much appreciated.
1. The starter does keep turning after I let go of the key 2. I am pretty certain that the Orange wire on the relay gets and maintains 12v when they key is turned but I will double check. Just to make sure on the wires going into the relay are in the correct order, the relay has 2 prongs on the back side of relay, one above the other. On the top prong there is a Red wire connected to it. The prong just below that one, there is a brown wire connected to that one. The last prong on the bottom of the relay is where the orange wire is connected. Are the wires connected correctly?? |
07-27-2021, 07:40 PM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 19
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Re: 2013 Carryall 2 No Spark
I just tested all three of those wires. I disconnected all 3 from the relay and turned the key on. I am getting 12v from both the Red and Brown wire, and 0 volts from the orange wire. I turned the key off and connected all three wires back on to the relay. When I turned the key back on, the starter kept turning and I got 12v on all three of the wires with the relay engaged and also 12v on all three wires with the relay NOT engaged.
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07-27-2021, 07:51 PM | #5 |
Bonafide Nincompoop
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Charlottesburg Va
Posts: 8,987
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Re: 2013 Carryall 2 No Spark
Ok the. All we need to focus on is the ignition kill circuit.
Red orange and brown wires should be going to the limit switch. The Relay should have 6 pins on it. Unless they’ve changed something on those that I’m not aware of. Can you post a picture of the electronics box? |
07-28-2021, 11:33 AM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 19
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Re: 2013 Carryall 2 No Spark
Here are a couple of pics. Let me know if you need some different angles.
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07-28-2021, 11:55 AM | #7 |
Bonafide Nincompoop
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Charlottesburg Va
Posts: 8,987
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Re: 2013 Carryall 2 No Spark
That's pretty much all the same.
White/black wire is the ignition kill which comes from the coil/rev limiter harness on the engine. Unhook that from the relay, check that relay pin for continuity to ground. You should have continuity to ground. If not, verify the black wire on the pin next to it has good ground. And if it does the relay is bad. Then turn the key to start so the relay engages, check same pin again. There should be NO continuity with the relay engaged. If there is still continuity the relay is bad. If those check out and the relay is working as it should then you'll need to move up to the Key switch. Before pulling the dash out disconnect the battery -. White/black at the key switch is the same function, ignition kill. The key witch has a set of contacts in it that close with the key off, so the White/black will get continuity to ground (Black wire). Remove the White/back wire from the key switch. Key Off, Check the switch contact (M+) for continuity to ground. There should be continuity. Turn the Key to Run, and re-check, there should now be NO continuity. If there is still continuity the key switch is bad. If that checks out the key switch is Good, leave the wire disconnected at the key switch and the relay, and Unplug the White/black wire from the coil harness on the motor. Check the White/black wire for continuity to ground. With it disconnected at all three points it should be isolated and should have NO continuity to ground. If there is continuity the wire is shorted to ground somewhere. Inspect for nicks, cuts, burns/melting, or any other damage to the insulation especially around the motor. Also look under the cart inside the frame rail where the wire harness runs for any damage from impact or rodents. |
07-28-2021, 12:53 PM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 19
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Re: 2013 Carryall 2 No Spark
Looks like I have a bad relay. When I unhooked the black/white wire from the relay and tested the pin I would sometimes get continuity and sometimes not. When I turned on the key switch, I was was getting continuity every time. When I checked the pin for the black wire right next to the black/white pin, I was getting continuity every time.
Should I get an OEM Relay or is there a good aftermarket brand I can order online? Thank you very much. I feel really good that you have found my problem. |
07-28-2021, 01:23 PM | #9 |
Bonafide Nincompoop
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Charlottesburg Va
Posts: 8,987
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Re: 2013 Carryall 2 No Spark
If the relay is bad then the engine should start and run with the White/black wire disconnected from the relay.
I've tried before to find a similar relay and I'm sure there is one available somewhere but I keep coming up empty. You can get it from a Club Car dealer, it is part# 1017239. It is quite expensive. Another option is to re-wire it so the ignition kill uses a separate relay with a set of NO contacts. This would be cheaper, and you can find a 5 pin bosch style relay at just about any auto parts store. |
07-28-2021, 05:35 PM | #10 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 19
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Re: 2013 Carryall 2 No Spark
I tried to run it with the black/white wire disconnected from relay and nothing happens when I turn on the key. If I reconnected the black/white wire on the relay and turn the key, the starter turns on but when I press on gas pedal nothing happens, if I then disconnect the black/white wire while the starter is running, it turns off. Does this still sound like a bad relay? I have already ordered one, so no problem. Just curious of your thoughts. Thank you
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