What is this? MS? Volt Reducer?

[branman1971]

MS1 is located directly under the F/R switch, and sits next to MS2. They have a jumper between the two connecting them.

[yurtle]

If you have a digital multimeter, use the diode check, continuity check, or resistance setting. Closed will be low resistance and open will be high (should be infinity). It really helps to check micro-switches.

You can normally follow voltage for troubleshooting, but since you're kinda starting from scratch, continuity checks are safer.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by branman1971

MS1 is located directly under the F/R switch, and sits next to MS2. They have a jumper between the two connecting them.

Correct. If it's the same as newer model FNRs, one MS is open in neutral, and closed in F and R. It prevents the solenoid from engaging when in neutral.

The other MS is only for the backup beeper, and for a controller "may" enable 1/2 throttle. They will work just fine without the backup MS, which I believe is MS-1 on yours.

[branman1971]

Not sure if this helps, but heres a pic of how it mounts. This pic shows the switch in position of pedal to the floor.

[branman1971]

But if I disconnect the buzzer at MS3, it appears to me that it will disconnect the power "loop" that loops a signal between the small terminals on the solenoid, MS3, MS2, and MS1. Are you saying that none of these terminals are essential to the cart running?

[branman1971]

And honestly, I am not sure that I am using the correct diagram. I only went with this one because it shows 3 MS and the solenoid looked like mine. I have seen pics of the + power supply coming in at the F/R assembly and also seen + supply connecting direcly to the solenoid. Makes me nervous..

[yurtle]

Retrace the diagram. MS-1 only goes from MS-2, which also goes to the key switch. It then only goes to NO of MS-3. So MS-2 does its thing. MS-3 also does its thing with the solenoid. The only thing I see MS-1 does is power the buzzer when in reverse.

However, I'm making assumptions on the positions of the MSs relative to the FNR and the accelerator switch.

If you don't have one, buy a $10 - $20 cheap DMM from WalMart, Home Depot or Lowes. It will start to make sense when you follow continuity from battery + or - through the MSs while moving the FNR and the Accelerator Switch, without the batteries.

[branman1971]

Ok...So do you think this is the correct diagram for my cart? Cause it is different than the original wiring.

[cgtech]

Maybe a little late, but, that original picture looks like the super annoying "door open/key in ignition" buzzer i took out of my '77 Monte Carlo and smashed with a hammer!

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by branman1971

Ok...So do you think this is the correct diagram for my cart? Cause it is different than the original wiring.

Based on what you've said, as far as the MSs are concerned, any valid wiring diagram should work. The only variable is the question I had over the definition of NO and NC. A switch will have a default NC and/or NO. However, once installed, this can change. If the FNR cam or Accelerator Switch cause the switch lever to be pressed in by default, it will be reversed. You really need to invest in a DMM to confirm their operation, and trace out the solenoid activation circuit from one side of the batteries to the other. Once you confirm continuity when the FNR is in F or R, the key switch is on, and the Accelerator Switch is pressed, you should have a closed circuit through the solenoid.