81 ezgo 2pg run rough in forward rebuilt top end

[drek67055]

i know it might sound stupid (i even tried to make sure when i did mine) to make sure the piston is in right there is a square hole in the side that SHOULD NOT go to the exhaust
real easy check pull the exhaust off and spin the engine over i fought this for a little while knowing i put it in right just to pull the pipe off and see the square hole in the piston
yeah not sure how i missed it pulled the top end back off and turned it around hardly any issues since

[TomStark]

Originally Posted by drek67055

i know it might sound stupid (i even tried to make sure when i did mine) to make sure the piston is in right there is a square hole in the side that SHOULD NOT go to the exhaust
real easy check pull the exhaust off and spin the engine over i fought this for a little while knowing i put it in right just to pull the pipe off and see the square hole in the piston
yeah not sure how i missed it pulled the top end back off and turned it around hardly any issues since

I will bet you are not the only one to do that! I was working on a truck, out doors in the snow, and had to put a new PS pump on it. Been working on it all day, was tired, cold and hungry, grab the new pump, and the pulley off the old one and remember thinking "Don't be stupid and put it on backwards. Long story short, I had to buy a new pulley!
Tom

[Junior57]

Well, I checked timing, not too bad, I did advance it slightly, it's dead on now. While the flywheel cover was off I sprayed starting fluid at front and rear crank seals. Didn't notice any rpm change. Hoping that means my seals are good. I checked piston,drek. It's in there correct. I actually did have it backwards the first time but caught it with the engine still on the bench. But I checked it again to make sure. Any other easy things to look at before I throw in the towel and replace the bottom end seals. If I go that far I may as well replace the crank and bearings.

[TomStark]

Sorry this did not nail it. If you do replace the crank seals, what is the point in replacing the crank and bearings? I mean, if they are good, that is as good as it gets. There is a reason that you do not put a new part on a race car for a race unless you have no choice. New parts are unproven. On the race car, new parts were put on for testing and sometimes qualifying. Then they were proven to be good. I would not replace the crank unless it was needed, and I would check the bearings and make a judgment call at that point.
Tom

[my1423]

Well another off the wall thing to check.
Hook a test light up to the power wire for the ignitor and place it where you can see it while driving. Multi meter works as well.
Put it in forward and watch the light.
If it flickers or dims then you have an issue with your fwd rev switch or a possible wire or solenoid issue.

Also seen a starter generator fail that the brushes were worn way down and were shorting out due to wear and improper brushes put in wrong. New brush kit fixed it.

[Junior57]

Thanks Tom, my logic on the crank was that I don't know the history of the cart and I plan to keep it for a long time. I just figured if I was going to put the hours in it for the seals, what's a couple more to completely rebuild it. But what you say does make sense, if it ain't broke don't fix it. Do you have any tips for replacing the seals? I've read a few posts and sounds like some folks have then pop out after installing new ones.
I'll check the forward / rev switch before I pull the motor, won't take but a few minutes and might save me some hours.

[TomStark]

Originally Posted by Junior57

Thanks Tom, my logic on the crank was that I don't know the history of the cart and I plan to keep it for a long time. I just figured if I was going to put the hours in it for the seals, what's a couple more to completely rebuild it. But what you say does make sense, if it ain't broke don't fix it. Do you have any tips for replacing the seals? I've read a few posts and sounds like some folks have then pop out after installing new ones.
I'll check the forward / rev switch before I pull the motor, won't take but a few minutes and might save me some hours.

Wish I had tips on changing the seals, but sadly, at Dart and Booth-Arons Racing Engines we did not do 2 strokes! LOL! So I have no real experience with them. I do know from experience they are really important. Years ago I had a snow mobile with a 340 twin in it. I ported it, and put in forged pistons, and it ran like a champ. Then one day I was riding it, and it was running REALLY well, then, for a second, it ran EVEN better, then nosed over and died. 2 forged pistons were pretty well melted around the ring grooves, and had really scuffed skirts. Yep, crank seals leaked, went lean! LOL! My cart motor is coming out next year and will be resealed, and mild porting, will check piston and bore, and everything else, but plan on keeping the piston if I can, will bore jug and buy new piston if needed, don't plan on doing anything to the crank. Oh, and digital CDI box and epoxied coil will go in!
Tom