New install on xct500 and admiral mot-a2

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Make sure the ring connectors you crimped or soldered to the F1 and F2 wires are making good connection.

Clip your voltmeter leads across the Solenoid big posts and make sure the voltage drops to 0v when the motor is trying to run.

Are his resistance readings correct? I don't typically check for resistance. I always use the continuity test setting and listen for a beep.

[Muddog]

I just tested a Precedent in the yard and his readings were lower than mine. So I think they're ok.
It's either a bad connection, faulty cable or a bad controller.
I think it's a connection or bad cable.
That's my story and I'm stickin to it.
Is it possible that the wiring is not correct?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

I'm beginning to think the Field Driver in the controller has failed. Call Will or Ron at Alltrax and they'll explain the procedure for testing the field driver. It's a very simple test. Make sure to unhook the batteries prior to testing and leave them disconnected for 20-30 minutes before calling. The controller needs to be completely discharged to ensure the accuracy of the test. If this is your issue, they'll warranty it out and provide you with a new unit. This is extremely rare, but as with anything, especially electronics, stuff happens.

[Muddog]

Originally Posted by yannicksjh

I got it from alltrax, its RHMOT-A2-V6.

When i press the peddle fault code is 2 red (battery under voltage). I test pack voltage and its 53.07 under no load. Could it possibly be dead cell?

Thanks

David, will that cause this fault?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Muddog

David, will that cause this fault?

If the controller is shorted or damaged, it can throw an incorrect code. We'll need to resort to our multimeter to determine the real issue in a case like this. I don't think it's a bad cell. If he had a bad cell in one of his batteries, his multimeter would be able to tell us that. With a total pack voltage as high as this one, I don't think that's an issue.

[yannicksjh]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Make sure the ring connectors you crimped or soldered to the F1 and F2 wires are making good connection.

Clip your voltmeter leads across the Solenoid big posts and make sure the voltage drops to 0v when the motor is trying to run.

So I tested accross the big contactors and not getting any voltage (peddle not depressed), push down the peddle and getting 8v. Selenoid clicks. Wonder if after those 10min the Selenoid contacts fried.

On a side note still find it weird that my charger wont shut off like it usually does. Goes to 5amps and continiues to charge (dpi charger)

[Sergio]

If You are getting 8v across the big posts when the Solenoid clicks, unfortunately that means the contacts are damaged and the Solenoid needs to be replaced.

I missed David's response/question last night, but the resistances you got from the Motor are correct for a Sepex motor.

How low do you have the "Low Voltage cutoff" setting in the Alltrax software?

I asked about the F1 and F2 wires and crimp condition for the same reason David asked about the Field driver, since a loss/reduction in Field current could cause excessive Armature current and overheat the motor.

Try putting the cart in TOW to see if the DPI charger finishes the cycle.

[yannicksjh]

Originally Posted by Sergio

If You are getting 8v across the big posts when the Solenoid clicks, unfortunately that means the contacts are damaged and the Solenoid needs to be replaced.

I missed David's response/question last night, but the resistances you got from the Motor are correct for a Sepex motor.

How low do you have the "Low Voltage cutoff" setting in the Alltrax software?

I asked about the F1 and F2 wires and crimp condition for the same reason David asked about the Field driver, since a loss/reduction in Field current could cause excessive Armature current and overheat the motor.

Try putting the cart in TOW to see if the DPI charger finishes the cycle.

I have another selenoid so ill give it a try.

Low voltage is set from factory setting (pretty sure its around 38 but would have to double check)

So would the motor be damaged now as well from the reasons you mentionned above?

I always charge in tow so not sure why its not charging

Does the included diode need to be installed on the selenoid big post?


Thanks

[Sergio]

The resistance readings would indicate the motor is fine.

If You have not done that yet, You really need to enable the "Speed Sensor" and set the pole count to 4 as mentioned.

Without the rpm feedback from the Motor the Controller cannot make certain decisions about the Field/Armature current ratios or easily detect a stall condition.

The XCT, when used on a Club Car IQ, does not need a Regen Diode or Pre-charge resistor across the Solenoid big posts.

Hopefully the Solenoid will take care of the issue.

[yannicksjh]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The resistance readings would indicate the motor is fine.

If You have not done that yet, You really need to enable the "Speed Sensor" and set the pole count to 4 as mentioned.

Without the rpm feedback from the Motor the Controller cannot make certain decisions about the Field/Armature current ratios or easily detect a stall condition.

The XCT, when used on a Club Car IQ, does not need a Regen Diode or Pre-charge resistor across the Solenoid big posts.

Hopefully the Solenoid will take care of the issue.

Well I have movement! Havent took it for a test yet. Going to hook up laptop and nake sure all perimeters are good.

Question is I only have a 200amp selenoid, can I set down the amps on the controller under 400 until i get 400amp selenoid or what would be a good/safe amp setting?

Whats the max rpm I should set the admiral mot-a2?

Appreciate the help