36v to 48v pre-summer project begins

[kernal]

Those batteries are low in capacity. You have a big, heavy cart. I predict you will be disappointed. Range per charge will be lower than average and consequently service life will be shorter, but it depends on how you use the cart.

[JohnnieB]

Apparently NAPA has changed sources for their 8148 (like many store brands they relabeled batteries made by others) and the specs now look like a East Penn/Deka GC8V, which is 165AH rather that the 150AH battery they were selling as a 8148 when I compiled that chart.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP8148

The 170AH Trojan T-875 is the yardstick 6 x 8V 48V battery packs are measured by and the T-875 weighs 63 pounds while the 8148 now being sold by NAPA weighs 68 pounds, which is very close to the 69 pounds of the 190AH Trojan T-890.

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Might be okay for the heavy cart if the trip lengths are relatively short.

If I can find them at $100 each at my local NAPA store, I'd consider them for my cart if/when I go to 48V.

[Denzone]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Apparently NAPA has changed sources for their 8148 (like many store brands they relabeled batteries made by others) and the specs now look like a East Penn/Deka GC8V, which is 165AH rather that the 150AH battery they were selling as a 8148 when I compiled that chart.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP8148

The 170AH Trojan T-875 is the yardstick 6 x 8V 48V battery packs are measured by and the T-875 weighs 63 pounds while the 8148 now being sold by NAPA weighs 68 pounds, which is very close to the 69 pounds of the 190AH Trojan T-890.

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Might be okay for the heavy cart if the trip lengths are relatively short.

If I can find them at $100 each at my local NAPA store, I'd consider them for my cart if/when I go to 48V.

Thanks...

[Denzone]

Thank you for everyone's comments and assistance. As this is my first cart I have been learning quite a lot. I just have a few more questions, actually will probably have many more, but starting with this.

Before replacing all the electronics I did take pictures and read through the wiring diagrams for hours it seemed like. Now, I have a question on where the second wire of the key switch goes. The one side matched up with the wiring harness that comes from the pedal. I thought the other one was attached to the old F/R switch. So, I just am wondering where it was attach to now? I have a picture.

The second is the pattern for A1, A2, S1, S2. I have toned out using the multimeter to make sure I know which cable goes where. But on my motor casing the outside is corroded some and I can't make out the pattern. Also, I have noticed that the wiring diagram from ScottyB and Alltrax, while similar the motor image actually shows the S1 and S2 connections flipped. Also, using the multimeter, touching both terminals would generate the tone for each wire connected.

[JohnnieB]

The studs on the end cap are A1 and A2, the studs on the main body of the motor are S1 and S2.

The wiring diagram that came with the reversing contactor shows you where the land the red wire that used to go to MS-2 on the old F/R assembly.

[Denzone]

Question...the large cable that Lowe's hardware sells (by the foot), would that be okay for golf carts? They sell 4G, 2G, 1/0G that I saw.

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[yurtle]

No. You should use welding cable, which you can buy locally or online.

[Denzone]

Originally Posted by yurtle

No. You should use welding cable, which you can buy locally or online.

Thanks just wanted a second option other than my mind. Didn't think it would be good enough.

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[E36Racer]

Welding cable is also very flexible in comparison to what’s at Home Depot or the car parts store, and so much easier to work with.


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[yurtle]

The motor moves with respect to the batteries, controller, and FNR, as you drive, so those cables need to be flexible, and the insulation needs to be abbrasion resistant. Also the many fine strands help in eddy current losses.