1998 ezgo dcs

[Ransom276]

Hey guys I got a 1998 ezgo dcs. Been sitting up for couple of years and just put new batteries in it today. Battery voltage is 38.1. The cart wouldn’t move at all at first then started moving really slow. Then it was intermittent and now has stopped all together.

Battery voltage is 38.2
Solenoid is 38.2 on both large terminals with key on or off
Solenoid small terms 38.0 on red and yellow wire key on and 6.9 key off
Blue wire is 37.6 key on and 7.0 key off
White wire on 10 pin 0 and nothing when pedal is press
Black wire number 2 pin is .2 on and dosnt change with pedal up or down

I’m sure I will need some more info on here but maybe this can help get it started at to what and where to check. Thank you for any help!!!

[JohnnieB]

Does the solenoid click when pedal is pushed?

[Ransom276]

Yes johny B it clicks when pedal is pressed. Should of put that in there.

[Ransom276]

Also on f 1 white wire in reverse I’m getting 9.0 volts with pedal pressed and nothing in fowards position. Black f 2 wire I’m getting a jump up to 6 or 7 volts but comes back to 3.3 steady

[JohnnieB]

That means the problem is in the high current circuits.

Take the pre-charge resistor off the solenoid's big terminals. (Put it back on after the cart is going) Without the resistor, you should read 38.2V(if battery pack is fully charged) at the solenoid's controller side big terminal when solenoid is energized and it should be decreasing towards 0V when not energized. (There are some filter capacitors that charge up when the solenoid contacts are closed and bleed down when they are open)

If the voltage stays the same with solenoid energized or not, the contacts are welded.

If the voltage start dopping when con tscts are open, solenoid is OK.

Connect DVM between the controller's B- and M- terminals. Press pedal just far enough to make solenoid click and you ought to get 38.2V.

If you do, slowly press pedal to floor and the voltage ought to decrease to zero.

If it doesn't, the controller or the throttle is bad.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Ransom276

Also on f 1 white wire in reverse I’m getting 9.0 volts with pedal pressed and nothing in fowards position. Black f 2 wire I’m getting a jump up to 6 or 7 volts but comes back to 3.3 steady

That sounds like a bad throttle, attached page is how to test it.

[Ransom276]

Thanks for info solenoid didn’t have any resistors on it. With key on or off it is showing pack voltage. I’m going to change the solenoid out and see if that does it.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Ransom276

Thanks for info solenoid didn’t have any resistors on it. With key on or off it is showing pack voltage. I’m going to change the solenoid out and see if that does it.

Might be it.

The resistor pre-charges the filter capacitors in the controller so the solenoid contacts don't arc as much as they are closing. Without the resistor, the contacts arc and eventually weld themselves to each other.

A 36V cart uses a 270Ω 10W resistor.

[Ransom276]

Ok so new solenoid and still sanething. Got pack voltage on both sides with key on or off

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Ransom276

Ok so new solenoid and still sanething. Got pack voltage on both sides with key on or off

The solenoid shouldn't activate with key off, does it?

Remember, the capacitors in the controller charge up when the solenoid contacts close and retain that charge until it is bled off by the bleeder resistors connected across them inside the controller. In other words, it takes a few moments to see the voltage go down once the solenoid contacts open.

Let the cart sit for ten minutes with key off (solenoid de-energized) and then measure the voltage on the solenoid's controller side large terminal. It ought to be far less than whatever the battery pack voltage is.