Question

[Cartmaster]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

FWIW: I spent several years at RAF Chicksands in the early 70's and learned to enjoy a cuppa as well as a pint.

Well in that case, if Bob decides to fly his old kite to blighty, you are welcome to join him in a good British cup of Tetley's or even a pint of bitter at my place JohnnieB.

FYI, RAF Chicksands was closed down in 1997 and taken over by the British army as an intelligence base.

Let's hope Bob's issue is just a faulty solenoid then. He said it was brand new, but we have all seen new out of the box faulty items.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Cartmaster

Well in that case, if Bob decides to fly his old kite to blighty, you are welcome to join him in a good British cup of Tetley's or even a pint of bitter at my place JohnnieB.

FYI, RAF Chicksands was closed down in 1997 and taken over by the British army as an intelligence base.

Let's hope Bob's issue is just a faulty solenoid then. He said it was brand new, but we have all seen new out of the box faulty items.

I enjoy a cup of Tetley's English Breakfast Tea every now and then, but usually in the afternoon.

I had a room at the White Horse in Blunham for several months and helped out when they got busy, so I've pull a few pints as well as drinking them.

I knew about Chicksands reverting back to British control and that the elephant cage was removed. I maintained the equipment in the round building at the center of it and the stuff it fed down the road in the ops building.

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When I troubleshoot, I try to keep the age of the components from being a factor. Treat them all the same, they work or they don't.

[JohnnieB]

Cut & Pasted from a PM.

Originally Posted by Bob-0

I can’t seem to get to the pins to be able to check them. This is the current setup with the car, converted to 48v. It came in with the diode and resistor on it, and the diode would blow. I replaced the diode, and the car runs a short distance and blows the diode again. It won’t run with the diode off, and it also won’t run with the diode on backwards. Will I have to remove the solenoid mounting bracket to get to the pins? The tow/maintenance switch is right above them as well. The car runs, but not without the diode and only for a short time. The FNR rocker is messed up and the car only goes in forward as well, the customer wanted us to just wire it back as he took all the batteries out and took the wires off the motor and lost his diagram. The diode that is currently on it was popped too so I have to make a new one.

Several things.

1. The cart will run with or without any diodes or resistors attached to any of the four terminals, large or small.

2. The diode between the large terminals is being installed backwards since it should not be conducting from the battery to the controller/motor. Its purpose is to conduct from the motor via the controller to the battery during very specific conditions and just driving the cart is not one of those conditions.

3. Only the 6A diode ought to be connected to the larger terminals for a XCT in a PDS cart. See attached schematic.

4. Either the solenoid is not clicking when pedal is pushed or the contacts are not making contact for some reason.

5. The controller does F and R , the F/R switch just tells the controller what to do. Check that pack voltage is applied to J1 Pin-2 when F/R is in R.

6. The small red wire on the solenoid's battery side large terminal ought to be on top of the heavy ring terminal on the high amp cables. Stacking order is the highest amps connector goes on first so it makes the most intimate connection.

7. looks like you'll have to remove the solenoid bracket to access the pins.

8. If you have a device with a USB port, you can connect it to the XCT via a USB-A to USB-B cable (AKA printer cable) and see what switches are being close and a bunch of other stuff. (Screen capture attached.

[Bob-0]

Thank you so much!!! And I apologize, I didn’t see the other replies here before I sent the message.

Cart master, I love a good ole cuppa, lol. I just gotta get them to call me back then I can get over for a visit lol. Silly Covid.

[Bob-0]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Cut & Pasted from a PM.


Several things.

1. The cart will run with or without any diodes or resistors attached to any of the four terminals, large or small.

2. The diode between the large terminals is being installed backwards since it should not be conducting from the battery to the controller/motor. Its purpose is to conduct from the motor via the controller to the battery during very specific conditions and just driving the cart is not one of those conditions.

3. Only the 6A diode ought to be connected to the larger terminals for a XCT in a PDS cart. See attached schematic.

4. Either the solenoid is not clicking when pedal is pushed or the contacts are not making contact for some reason.

5. The controller does F and R , the F/R switch just tells the controller what to do. Check that pack voltage is applied to J1 Pin-2 when F/R is in R.

6. The small red wire on the solenoid's battery side large terminal ought to be on top of the heavy ring terminal on the high amp cables. Stacking order is the highest amps connector goes on first so it makes the most intimate connection.

7. looks like you'll have to remove the solenoid bracket to access the pins.

8. If you have a device with a USB port, you can connect it to the XCT via a USB-A to USB-B cable (AKA printer cable) and see what switches are being close and a bunch of other stuff. (Screen capture attached.

The solenoid isn’t clicking (perhaps bad out of the box). The large post battery side is showing 50.5v and the controller large post is showing 49.9 and they stay that way when the pedal is pressed. The two small terminals both so battery reference voltage. I’m thinking a bad solenoid out of the box and wanted to check before I pull the solenoid bracket off and started tracing in the pins. I do have a cable and a laptop I can bring in tomorrow so it it’s not leaning to another bad solenoid then I’ll check that as well.

Thank you so much for taking the time to help and teach an electric newbie.

[JohnnieB]

If you have battery pack voltage on both small terminals, the solenoid coil is intact.

B+ comes in on the yellow wire and feeds through the coil, so it can be measured on the blue wire.

If you jumper B- to the small terminal with the blue wire on it, the cart will probably move when the pedal is pushed.

Sounds like the pedal switch is bad or the controller is bad.

The pedal switch feeds pack voltage to the controller on J4 Pin-1.

[Bob-0]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

If you have battery pack voltage on both small terminals, the solenoid coil is intact.

B+ comes in on the yellow wire and feeds through the coil, so it can be measured on the blue wire.

If you jumper B- to the small terminal with the blue wire on it, the cart will probably move when the pedal is pushed.

Sounds like the pedal switch is bad or the controller is bad.

The pedal switch feeds pack voltage to the controller on J4 Pin-1.

I will pull the solenoid mounting bracket off and test the J4 pin 1, but when I jumpered B- to the small terminal, blue wire, the solenoid clicked but the car did not move.

[Bob-0]

The J4 Pin 1, white wire reads 50.3, and pack voltage measures as 50.4. I suppose all signs now point to a bad controller.

[Bob-0]

Sorry for the million questions here. In looking at the diagram, am I correct that the small yellow wire goes on the small post on the B+ side, and that the blue wire goes on the controller side small wire? If so then they are backwards.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Bob-0

Sorry for the million questions here. In looking at the diagram, am I correct that the small yellow wire goes on the small post on the B+ side, and that the blue wire goes on the controller side small wire? If so then they are backwards.

Neither the MZJ400 solenoid coil nor its contacts are polarized, so they can be wired either way and work normally.