2001 48V DSiQ Trouble Shooting - slow speed, motor winding resistance (?)

[aheglas]

i have a 2001 DS IQ, it has been a great cart for 10+ years. Over the summer it would intermittently stop working and then after hitting the pedal a few times would work again. i pulled the MCOR and bench tested for resistance variation of the potentiometer and it checked ok.
Back in October, the cart died and would not move again under its own power. Not having the time to mess with it, we just left it plugged in and forgot about it for two months.
After Christmas i had time to take a look at it. To my surprise all of the batteries with dry. (batteries are less than 2 yrs old)

i filled the batteries with distilled water and was able to deep charge the battery pack to 52.4 V after several OBC resets. so batteries are OK, (but not great)

Fearing that the controller was shot, i did the 33 step test protocol on the Curtis website.

First 4 steps of the motor winding check showed that i had:
A1-A2 - 2.2 Ohms (should be 0.3- 1.0 Ohm)
F1-F2 - 2.2 Ohms (should be 1.0- 2.0 Ohm)
A1- F1 - 1.12M Ohms (should be open)
F1-Case - 293 K Ohms (should be greater than 5M Ohms)

therefore i assume that the motor is shot. i went ahead and did the other tests in the test protocol just to make sure nothing else is defective.

When checking the voltage at Pin 6 (green wire), i found that i was only getting 2.3V with pedal down (should read pack voltage). I checked the green wire at the MCOR and found the same (even though bench testing mcor was OK).
I replaced MCOR and was able to get the cart to move. However max speed was about 8-9 mph and really slowed down on hills. regen function was working on downhill run and limited cart speed to 14mph.

OBC testing OK, and is allowing for charge cycles with batteries. I have noted that after a complete charge to 52.4V, 3 hours later voltage was at 51.5 V, 12 hours later down to 51.1V (all with no driving of cart, only consumer active is the voltage indicator). is it safe to assume that the current draw on the pack is coming from the internal short in the motor?

Any recomendations on aftermarket motor? cart is stock other than a backseat. Would like to keep current controller. more speed not needed, more torque would be nice for the hills in my neighborhood.

[DaveMJ]

I've had good experience with Electrical Motot Products http://empinc.biz/.

Sent from my SM-A526U1 using Tapatalk

[Volt_Ampere]

Look for info here on how to test your motor. It may not be bad based on your readings. You hook F1 to A1, F2 to A2 and apply a voltage to A1, A2 (motor disconnected from controller) Wheels off the ground. Even 8 or 16V will run the motor in this configuration if it's good. You can use car jumper cables to hook a battery to the motor.