86 ezgo-no power

[oiltech20]

Just bought an 86 2 stroke that was sitting for a few years..changed plug, air filter, fuel filter, drive belt, shoes, brake cables (they where completly missing), and fired her up...runs good on flat surfaces but she a real pooch on the hills!! After some reading, I checked muffler for blockage-all ok-no change. Checked compression (124psi), disconnected governer, made sure butterflies are wide open under a load, still no power! Any ideas?? Thanks for reading my post!

P.S.-no lift or bigger tires/wheels on the cart....all stock

[Dave Box]

If it runs well on the flat then here are a couple of things before we get into the engine performance.

Measure the width of the drive belt it should be 1 3/16 inches. If it is worn it will be narrower and it might be slipping under the extra load of the hill.

Put the rear axle on stands and run the engine to observe proper operation of the clutches. As you gently increase revs the drive clutch should slowly close and the driven clutch slowly open. As you decrease revs the opposite should happen. If the cart has sat for years it is possible that you have a sticky clutch that is not allowing the cart to change down and this bogging the engine on hills. Typically if you release the accelerator you would see the driven clutch staying open and then closing abruptly.

If you do decide to change the belt, many people, myself included have replaced it with a slightly shorter belt which effectively lowers the gear ratio and gives greater torque and hill climbing ability. If you go that route the correct shorter belt for your cart is a Dayco HP3004.

Dave

[oiltech20]

Thanks Dave! We you said "sticky clutch not allowing the cart to change down", does that mean downshift? Like an automatic transmission? Just a little confused (very easy for me.) Also, do you know what engine I have? What mix should I use? (Oil tank has been removed) Is there a way to check/adjust the timing? Thanks again!!

[Dave Box]

What happens is that the faster the engine spins the drive clutch, the faster the weights spin inside which exert more pressure on the spring and close the two halves of the clutch (the two plates are called sheaves). This grabs the belt and as the sheaves close tighter they drive the belt up the pulley. Effectively this increases the diameter of the pulley so that if at rest one turn of the pulley was say 6 inches of belt then with the sheaves closed one turn might be say 18 inches of belt. This is how the cart changes gear. The driven clutch is just a dumb slave that responds to the tightening of the belt and is simply forced open to keep a constant tension on the belt. However if, for example, the driven clutch stayed shut as you decreased engine speed this would have the effect of not changing down a gear as you climbed the hill. As I said earlier this is just my hypothesis and although it is an issue, it might not be your issue. However I think that you should have a look and also measure the belt. Belts are like chainsaws you never notice them wearing out but when you fit a new chain/belt you sure notice then.

You have the 2PG engine. It is a fine little 247 cc trooper and when it is at its best it runs rings around the 4 stroke boys. Yours with 124 psi is clearly ready to rock and roll.
The business of the oil ratio is contentious as many owners feel that more oil can't hurt but in fact it really can. The correct ratio is 128:1, yes I know that sounds very thin but that is what the book says. This makes your life very easy as it is 1 ounce of oil to 1 gallon of gasoline. Be aware that you will make your engine cry if you just slop the oil and gas into the gas tank. You should put the gas and oil into a container and shake them vigorously to mix before adding to the tank. When you use the correct ratio you will have more gas in the cylinder so you will get more power, you will not foul your plug, you will not clog your muffler and most importantly you will not annoy other drivers with a cloud of blue smoke.
The timing on your cart can be adjusted but it is a pain. You will need to remove the air cover from the front of the engine and then pull the flywheel (this has been known to reduce grown men to tears). The engine requires 20 degrees BTDC but the 2PG is very tolerant on timing so you will not notice if you change it. For some reason the designers left the adjusting ring on the engine possibly a throwback from the days of points. I have noticed that the ignition sensor on the 4 stroke has no adjuster and just bolts on the engine which is a much more sensible idea.
I hoped that this has helped a little but if you need anything shout out and about 10 guys will be more than willing to leap in.

Dave

[oiltech20]

Thanks again Dave! You certainly have given me a few things to check out. If I could bother you with just a few more questions, Id really appreciate it! Would you say it is best to change both clutches at the same time if needed? Is there a way to adjust the clutches? (Besides changing to the belt you mentioned)? Does the timing ever really need adjusted? Is a higher octane gasoline recommended? Does ethonal have any effect on this engines? Thanks again!

P.S.-this is an awesome site!

[Dave Box]

The original drive clutch on your cart was not servicable, in fact the manual specifically warns against trying to adjust it. If it is not closing and opening as it should then it is time to replace it. Unfortunately that will set you back ~$250. As I said earlier the driven clutch is a dumb device and it can be taken apart and repaired, the most common problem being worn buttons that will cost just a few dollars. Just because I could I replaced both of mine at the same time. I threw the drive clutch and kept the driven promising that one day I would dismantle and repair it so as to have a spare. One year later ........... The driven clutch you should find for ~$160.

If you ever have cause to remove the flywheel then it would be good to see if the pulsar is in the middle of its adjustment range otherwise I would forget it. The manual calls for 87 octane and I think that higher octane would just be a waste of your money, but why not try it it will not harm anything. Your engine was developed decades before ethanol and I always try to avoid the stuff in my vehicle but on the simple 2PG I don't think it will hurt.

Dave

[ScooterMcTavish]

Just a note from my end here too Dave,

My cart had sat for about 2-3 years in a farmer's back 40, and when first operating it after the rebuild, I noticed my drive clutch was initially an "all or nothing" - that I had to have high RPMs to get it to engage. Going up hills could only be done at full throttle.

With a bit of use, and the clutch sliding in and out, whatever crudola that built up inside loosened up a bit, and now my clutch engages much easier at lower RPMs. Maybe just a bit more use and a new belt (I certainly need one) might help your issue.

[vwralfy]

any news oiltech???

[oiltech20]

update..jacked her up today and checked the clutches..both worked fine, changed the belt to the hp3004-picked up a slight bit of more torque. I thought I'd pick up more but definantly an improvement. Still have to get the correct fuel mixture in her so that may help some. Not sure if the belt has to wear in but going downhill and off the gas, the cluthes seem to almost lock up and lock the rear wheel (only for a split second). Also when starting her after she sits for bit, she kinda lurches forward a few feet until the ignition engages..(im guessing its the compression from the engine) but then she runs good....any ideas Dave??

Thanks

[Dave Box]

Mine did exactly the same thing until I had a few hours on it and then the belt broke in. Just keep running and see how it is after 5 hours or so.