Got my new cart going but it has issues... please help

[woodrow256]

Ok i just bought a 99 txt series cart to replace my 90 marathon that was crumbling away. I swapped the controller, wires, F&R, and motor. My issue i think is with the ITS. I had to bypass the key and put a toggle switch temporarily. When i turn the controller on, the solenoid clicks on an doesnt go off until the controller is off. I need to know what wires go where, to bypass all the microswitches. Another issue is when i swapped the motors out, i notices a buildup of oil and dirt at the bottom of the motor on the axle. It was pretty thick with dirt but it wasnt moist like fresh leak. BUT, when i coast the rear end whines a little more than my marathon did. What seal do i need to replace that would leak down there? thanks in advance friends.

[scottyb]

1990 Marathon and TXT have two different throttle inputs. THe Marathon uses ohms (Ω) and the TXT uses volts (v)
Only the Alltrax AXE (or SPM) could be programmed to work with both of these.

[cgtech]

Also, bypassing all the microswitches and operating with the solenoid always on is a neat way to live on the edge. They are there in part to protect you from running away at full speed if the throttle sensor craps out, and prevent electrical meltdown if the cart is operated while not fully in the F or R switch position. These things can bring some real spice to your journeys...

[woodrow256]

The controller is an axe4855 that i bought from u scottyb. I know the solenoid dont need to stay active constanty. I need to know how to make it go back to when i press the pedal. I didnt use the microswitches on my marathon and all was well. But with the ITS throttle i cant figure out where the wires need to go to fix the solenoid issue. Anybody got an idea of how to resolve this? Like a diagram of ITS throttle wires or something ive overlooked.

[radioman]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Also, bypassing all the microswitches and operating with the solenoid always on is a neat way to live on the edge. They are there in part to protect you from running away at full speed if the throttle sensor craps out, and prevent electrical meltdown if the cart is operated while not fully in the F or R switch position. These things can bring some real spice to your journeys...

cgtech; I had my old cart take off one morning when I switched it on to move it. If anything had been in front of it would got ran over or into before I had time to react. I stopped it by slamming on the brakes then switching it off. Problem proved to be a bad micro switch in the pedal box and something else. The lever was bent so it was staying closed and had been that way for some time. Investigating why it happened led me to suspect the ITS but it checked good. I Replaced the micro switch and that was the first time I heard the solenoid click when the pedal was depressed. It always clicked when I switched it on with out pressing the pedal. I still don't know what made it take off and some times it still does but not until I press the pedal. I suspect a problem in the controller but it don't act up often enough to work on it when I feel like tackling it. I have learned some valuable lessons with this old golf cart. Don't bypass micro switches except to test and keep brakes in good working order.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by woodrow256

The controller is an axe4855 that i bought from u scottyb. I know the solenoid dont need to stay active constanty. I need to know how to make it go back to when i press the pedal. I didnt use the microswitches on my marathon and all was well. But with the ITS throttle i cant figure out where the wires need to go to fix the solenoid issue. Anybody got an idea of how to resolve this? Like a diagram of ITS throttle wires or something ive overlooked.

This sounds doable

Basically + power for the solenoid comes from battery pack to
F&R micro switch to
Key switch to
Foot peddle switch to
solenoid small post


The negative side of the activation circuit can be a constant connection from B- controller or battery pack to other small solenoid post.

Heres a stock diagram....

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by woodrow256

The controller is an axe4855 that i bought from u scottyb. I know the solenoid dont need to stay active constanty. I need to know how to make it go back to when i press the pedal. I didnt use the microswitches on my marathon and all was well. But with the ITS throttle i cant figure out where the wires need to go to fix the solenoid issue. Anybody got an idea of how to resolve this? Like a diagram of ITS throttle wires or something ive overlooked.

The TXT has an Inductive Throttle System (ITS) and the Marathon has a O-5k Pot-Box. Both have two wires that connect to Pins 2 & 3 on the AXE controller, but you will have to connect a computer to the AXE controller and program it for the throttle type that is connected to it to get it to work. However, what type throttle has nothing to do with whether the solenoid energizes or not or stays energized or not. Different electrically circuit entirely.

Attached is a schematic of an AXE controller in a TXT, with the solenoid activation circuit highlighted.

[woodrow256]

I know those diagrams are mostly the same, but the one johnnieb posted really speaks to me. I think it has something to do with the way the solenoid looks on the one in the stickies the scottyb posted. So im good now on what i hav to do. Thanks to yall for helping with it. Any ideas what might be going on in the pumpkin with the whining sound and possible leak?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by woodrow256

.............Any ideas what might be going on in the pumpkin with the whining sound and possible leak?

Some whine more than others, but here is the service manual for the differential.

EZGO puts SAE-30 motor oil in them, but some people prefer using gear oil for gears and motor oil for motors.

[woodrow256]

Id like to pimp slap the guy who sold me my new txt! I spent all freakin afternoon chasing down a short. It turns out where the ITS harness runs under the floor been shredded a long time ago. The guy told me it was running fine when it was parked. BS. If he would have just told me i would have still bought the cart. Johnnieb and Scottyb, i think there is a little flaw in both of the diagrams. The way the diagram shows the key switch circuit, i think the pedal micro would have to clicked to have power to the controller on pin 1. I had to tap the hot wire after the key switch but before the ITS micro. I hope i said it right where yall know what im trying to say. All is working as it should now. Next to deal with the rear end problem. Thanks once again for your help.