Controller upgrade

[skipsmith521]

I think it may be time to upgrade my controller and want to make sure I am clear on a few things.

I have a DCS and will get a DCX400.
I have already upgraded all the cables.

Here are some questions...sorry for being so long...

1) most important is safety...i have asked questions in and around this topic, but when swapping out the controller, should I disconnect the battery negative and battery plus cables? Along with one of the other battery cables? Just want to be careful...and not fry me and the controller at the same time.

2) when connecting the wires and cables to the selinoid, do you put the large current cables on the posts first? The resistor and diodes go on post after the large cables? What about the wires in the wiring harness? These go on post last? Just trying to figure out the order...

3) on my DCS cart, the controller has a cable that runs from B+ to the selinoid and then a cable that runs from selinoid to motor A2. Some diagram that I have seen shows 2 cables connected to B+ with one going to the selinoid and the other cable from B+ going to motor A2. Is there a right or wrong way to do this?

4) I see there is a fuse that will attach to battery positive. The charger wire would go on fuse end and not on battery post?

5) with the fuse on battery positive, the SOC meter will connect to battery post?

6) with the fuse on battery positive, the large gauge wire will connect to fuse side and not directly onto the battery post?

I like to understand everything before jumping in over my head.

Thanks for help.

Skip

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[harleychief]

Originally Posted by skipsmith521

I think it may be time to upgrade my controller and want to make sure I am clear on a few things.

I have a DCS and will get a DCX400.
I have already upgraded all the cables.

Here are some questions...sorry for being so long...

1) most important is safety...i have asked questions in and around this topic, but when swapping out the controller, should I disconnect the battery negative and battery plus cables? Along with one of the other battery cables? Just want to be careful...and not fry me and the controller at the same time.

2) when connecting the wires and cables to the selinoid, do you put the large current cables on the posts first? The resistor and diodes go on post after the large cables? What about the wires in the wiring harness? These go on post last? Just trying to figure out the order...

3) on my DCS cart, the controller has a cable that runs from B+ to the selinoid and then a cable that runs from selinoid to motor A2. Some diagram that I have seen shows 2 cables connected to B+ with one going to the selinoid and the other cable from B+ going to motor A2. Is there a right or wrong way to do this?

4) I see there is a fuse that will attach to battery positive. The charger wire would go on fuse end and not on battery post?

5) with the fuse on battery positive, the SOC meter will connect to battery post?

6) with the fuse on battery positive, the large gauge wire will connect to fuse side and not directly onto the battery post?

I like to understand everything before jumping in over my head.

Thanks for help.

Skip

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Skip

I'm not an expert but I did just do an upgrade on mine and everything came out OK so I'll try to answer some of your questions

1) Take all the wires off both negative and positive posts from the batteries going to the controller (first and last batteries)

2) With everything disconnected from the batteries it doesn't matter which wires you hook to solenoid first, the biggest thing is to make sure that any diodes are oriented correctly.

3. I'm not sure and will leave that question to an expert.

4. Correct

5. Correct

6. Yes, as long as you're talking about the "large gauge wire" coming from the charger.

Charlie

[rottie]

1. Always disconnect the battery first, start with negative lead. You can start with disconnecting a cable that is in the battery chain. Be aware you should temporarily connect a resistor 100-1000 ohms across the B+ and B- on the controller when you disconnect connect to discharge up the capacitors in the controller. Other wise there could lead to a big spark, if accidently shorted. Don't ask me how I know this.
2. It all has to do with access w/o shorting to other things. In my situation, I connected the big lead to the controller first, then to the battery.
3. other experts in DCS systems can answer this.
4. The wires should go on the battery terminal posts with a separate fuse (+ lead) to protect the charger.
5. yes
6. yes, otherwise fuse is not in circuit. I am sure somebody can attach a picture schematic for absolute clarity.

[scottyb]

#3. There is an insignificant difference electrically in the 2 ends of a 9" cable. Although it will work either way, it is always best to follow the install diagram from the manufacture.

[Sergio]

I interpreted the #2 question differently, so when connecting multiple wires to the same post, always put the most current carrying connectors first, then stack the lower carrying connectors on top.

A resistor or diode would be the last connector on the post.

[harleychief]

Originally Posted by Sergio

I interpreted the #2 question differently, so when connecting multiple wires to the same post, always put the most current carrying connectors first, then stack the lower carrying connectors on top.

A resistor or diode would be the last connector on the post.

Now that I've re-read the question Sergio is right.

[JohnnieB]

1. I usually disconnect a battery cable on the driver side of the battery pack first and then disconnect other cables as needed. I reconnect the cable on the driver side last, but before connecting I attach a clip lead with a 1k resistor in it to the cable lug and battery terminal to charge the filter capacitors in the controller and minimize the spark when the cable touches the battery terminal. I use the same clip lead setup between the controller's B- and B+ terminals to discharge the filter capacitors before working on or about the controller.

2. As mentioned, the higher current cables/wires go on first. Diodes or resistors last.

3. Technically, the A2 cable and the short cable from the solenoid should both be on the controller's B+ connector, but either way works and it doesn't really make much difference. The amp flow in the A2 cable is higher than the amps being drawn from the battery unless the PWM output of the controller is at 100% duty cycle (or 0%), so if the two cables are connected at the solenoid, the armature current travel through the short cable as well as the A2 cable. Connect both of the cables on the controller's B+ terminal shortens the armature current's path by about 9" or so and eliminates two cable/terminal interfaces.

4. There are two fuses on the main positive battery terminal. One about 50A that the charger wire connects to. The other a 400A that the main B+ cable connects to.

Technically, the 400A fuse can be inserted in the main negative cable. I put it on the controllers B- terminal when I installed a DCX400 in my cart. (See attached photo)

5. Yes.

6. Yes.

[skipsmith521]

The 1k resistor is something I have not read about or know much...

Is this necessary and if so, is this a radio shack thing I can purchase?

I have watched a lot of YouTube videos and have not seen this done...

Can someone post a link to what this resistor and leads look like?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[Sergio]

If Your solenoid has a pre-charge resistor this is not necessary for the controller.

After all, it would not make any sense for that kind of spark to occur inside the solenoid every time the contacts close.

Usually a spark on the last battery connection is caused by the capacitors inside a DC-DC voltage converter.

If You have a DC-DC converter, use a regular incandescent light bulb of 60w in series with the last cable connection for a few seconds.

Meaning stand the light bulb on the battery post and touch the bulb threads with the cable lug, the resistance of the light bulb 60w = 240Ω will allow the capacitors to charge at a lower current.

After about 10 seconds, You can then put the lug on the battery post without any spark.

Some controllers like the XCT do not use pre-charge resistors, so I am not sure how they regulate the initial capacitor current, but the light bulb tricky would work regardless for those controllers.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by skipsmith521

The 1k resistor is something I have not read about or know much...

Is this necessary and if so, is this a radio shack thing I can purchase?

I have watched a lot of YouTube videos and have not seen this done...

Can someone post a link to what this resistor and leads look like?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

The precharge resistor is a very important part of the system. If you purchase from Carts Unlimited the needed resistor and diode is included in the purchase price as well as the upgraded solenoid.
Otherwise you can buy them separately. Not sure radio shack is going to have exactly what is required. This is the complete engineer report from Alltrax here > http://www.alltraxinc.com/files/Doc1...ns-Learned.pdf