Wiring for an Ez-Go 2002 series cart.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by gadavis

Latest update. When I swapped the S-1 &S-2 wires the cart ran in reverse and not forward. Sounds like the problem must be the FNR switch. So, I removed the FNR unit, disassembled it and checked the contacts and cleaned the greasy film off of them. The switch is a new OEM unit from an Ez-Go dealer and the contacts were level and smooth across the faces of the studs. I put a very small touch of Vaseline on each contact surface so they slid easy and reassembled the switch. I then tightened the center bolt to the point where it was just before locking it down. I then bench tested it with my Fluke 77 VOM on each of the terminals for resistance/continuity. Each terminal was 1-2 ohms. I then tested the contacts in the position they work in positions for forward and reverse. Forward contacts were A&D-2 ohms, C&D were 1.5 ohms. Reverse group was A&D 1 ohm and B&C 2 ohms. To my uneducated confused at times brain that was pretty good. I installed it in the cart and now the d@#n thing will run in reverse and not forward. The problem just swapped sides. Could this be a sign the controller is about to bite the dust? Frustrated because it ran good both ways on the jack stands yesterday and when it was taken off the stands and driven around the building it somehow lost reverse. What am i missing? Any body got anysuggestions? This thing is getting on my nerves.

No, the controller is good.

The only electrical difference between forward and reverse is which of the four studs on the backside of the F/R assembly are shorted together by the shorting bars on the moveable cam that is rotated by the direction selector lever.

It is a mechanical alignment issue. The boltholes for mounting the F/R assembly are oblong, so it can be adjusted side to side.

[gadavis]

Okay, here is another update. Checking all the post on the FNR switch in reverse I have pack voltage. When I shift into forward all have voltage, but when I depress the accelerator pedal voltage on post D drops to 0, all others are good.

I will try adjusting it. Gene

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by gadavis

Okay, here is another update. Checking all the post on the FNR switch in reverse I have pack voltage. When I shift into forward all have voltage, but when I depress the accelerator pedal voltage on post D drops to 0, all others are good.



I will try adjusting it. Gene

That sounds like a bad connection somewhere, check all the cables and ends as well as what Johnnie mentioned. One of the high current cable ends sounds bad to me.

[gadavis]

I had to replace most of the high current cables and ends because the loose connection(s) at the FNR switch burned them. Checked all the cables for continuity also. I have had the FNR switch out, checked for loose connections there and alignment of the post in it. I have adjusted it every way it could be adjusted on the mount but alas still no good. Then all. of a sudden it just decided it would run both ways for a change. When you mash the accelerator pedal,it does fine for maybe 50 times and then it will hesitate and not run for several times either forward or reverse. Then suddenly it will slam like popping the clutch to do a wheelie in a car and will run in both directions and suddenly will just click and not go forwards but will in reverse. I stuck the VOM meter to the small red wire going into the controller from the ITS box and all the times i tried it, pack voltage was present there in F&R directions even when the wheels did not turn. Could this be a solenoid sticking inside even though it click? When it does not run in Forward, it loses the voltage on the D post of the FNR switch, but has it when it does run forward. Maybe I need to find a gremlin eradicator?.

[Clemsoncartguy]

I would just upgrade the switch and be done with it! Now that you found it.

[mgray70]

It could be possible that the solenoid has a bad spot and does not make contact sometimes and sometimes it does. When it acts up check the voltage on the control side of the solenoid while trying to go. Johnnie may have better advice when he checks back in. If the controller has output, the fnr switch is what changes the direction of the motor, so this is a gremlin for sure!

[gadavis]

I think I saw something where Johnnie B. told someone he was going to be gone for a few days. I was hoping maybe Scotty would jump in on this while Johnnie was gone.

It acts like a bad solenoid sometimes, even though it clicks. When it is acting up, it clicks and nothing happens. Some of the time when it acts the fool with you pressing the accelerator pedal down, it will suddenly act like you pop the clutch in a vehicle hard enough to do a wheelie. This may be due to the fact that it is suddenly coming to life with the pedal already half or more down. Isn't it supposed to have something like the Club Car's high pedal disable to prevent it from starting when you stomp the pedal too far and fast? Whether it runs normal or acts up, the voltage is there to the solenoid activation wire, but the voltage at the FNR switch, (post D) goes away. It is there when it acts normal and is turning the wheels. This thing is getting on my nerves!

[gadavis]

I have examined, checked, and adjusted the FNR switch ever way I have thought of or found to do. Even taken it apart and looked to see if the contacts were OK. It is a new OEM switch from Ez-Go. I have another switch that is on a working cart that I may swap into it the next time i get to work on it which will be Friday. I have a dental appointment in the morning and school honors day program for grand daughter in the afternoon.

[yurtle]

When it stops working, does reversing the direction fix it? I've had a solenoid go intermittent, but I'm thinking it's the FNR is not going all the way to the stops, given your description. Disconnect the linkage from the FNR to the knob, then try it and see if that solves the problem. Operate the FNR by rotating it under the seat.

The way I set my FNR is to rotate it exactly halfway between F and R, then slide it back and forth until the handle is exactly upright, then tighten it down. That should make it got fully to the stops in each direction.

[gadavis]

Good morning Yurtle. You are about 125 miles NW of me. I am in Washington County. The FNR switch is making the complete stroke and fully engaging the contacts. looking into the top of it I can see the posts. When it decides to cooperate, it runs well and when it acts the fool, reversing the FNR does not cure it. Swapping the forward and reverse wires on the switch will make it go in the opposite direction though. It shows pack voltage on the red wire from the controller to the solenoid when running or acting the fool. The voltage to all posts on the FNR is there when running and when it cuts up the voltage to the D post of the FNR switch,( in this case reverse), which goes to the motor is absent. Occasionally it will click and do nothing and suddenly as the go pedal is being pushed it will engage violently like popping a vehicle clutch to do a wheelie. Could this be an erratic acting solenoid? The big mystery to me is the voltage disappearing at the FNR switch terminal. I have another FNR unit that from a cart that was running when it got junked for need of batteries and frame rusting out. I am going to install it tomorrow. I have a dental appointment this morning and a grand kid honors day award this afternoon, so there goes this day.

Gene Davis Tennille, Ga.