repairing my first cart and feeling stupid

[laquiere]

So in advance, Thank you to everyone who post on this site. I've been reading it as things pop up in google when I type in searches and then hunting for the gremlins. This has lead me to feel dumber and dumber. Switch, pedal, f\r thingy, solenoid , black box, and motor, how hard can it be... welp, I'm posting on here because apparently harder then my IQ can handle.

Ok here's the trouble maker... 1997 ezgo TXTE-Z-GO Shuttle.
Started out no buzzer when I put it in rev, no click... nothing. Found the problem. Reed switch. When I skinned off the coating to wirenut them together, the coating came off all the way to the fork, so I replaced that 3" of wire. Then Presto! It buzzed, and clicked, and generally was... still broken.

Now it drove like a champ in Rev, but when I tried fwd it would give about 5 jerks du,du du du du, and then nothing. But I felt really good because It was at least alive.

Next I read somewhere that one of the batteries was could be bad. So I took off the wires and used a volt meter on each batt. All at 6.2 except one. Yea I thought. 1 new battery later I have no rev and no click from the solenoid. So I checked to make sure all the Batt cables were right and tight. They are all good it seems. After that, In rev it goes for about 3 seconds and then stops and won't do anything. still nothing in fwd.

In typical knob head fashion I said, hmm I'll take off the f\r thingy. Now I saw all the pics of these 4 studded things. I expected to see something similar. Mine is different. It has to contractors on both sides of a round thing and when it's half turned it clicks one or the other. I said to myself... I'll take it off and see if there is something under the cover.... Of coarse everything a knob head unscrews without knowledge has a giant spring under it. and it went boing, and I said screw it can came inside and watched tv.

Please help. Thanks again

[nickdalzell1]

You took apart the button that is part of the F/R switch assembly.

The button actually separates in one piece by removing the nut from the back of the board that holds the handle/button on and you can pull it out all at once.

Those series cars have issue with boards wearing or melting or cracking and you get one direction but not the other a lot. Replace board and i'd bet you're good to go (and replace the button, unless you're a wizard at re-assembling them perfectly because they have to be a certain way)

Your description though reminded me of my attempt (and last) at repairing a drive clutch on a TXT gas car, that was stuck closed. soon as I separated the cover the spring released (and made a boing!) and parts shot across the shop.

[jchal3377]

So I'm kind of in the same boat at you....words of wisdom, the more you hang out here the more of a knobhead you will feel like, there are some smart dudes hanging around here. but these guys are a great help, and your cart will ultimately get fixed haha.. just keep posting problems and answers appear haha

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[cgtech]

As far as the F&R was taken apart, I would suggest a new f&r board and cam. Unfortunately, all the aftermarket f&r cams from the cheap sources are junk, they need a refurbish job when new just to be reliable. Get one from ScottyB www.cartsunlimited.net, or another reputable supplier. I basically flatten and hone every cam before I install it because I have seen so many bad ones from China.

[nickdalzell1]

Don't feel too bad, OP. I've been a golf car mechanic for 10 years and I still get stumped and haven't seen it all just yet.

[jkredman]

There never was a winner who first wasn’t a beginner! —Dennis Waitley.

I can only help with RXVs because I successfully tricked out one, and am starting on the second one.

Just know there are people here to help and there are no silly questions.


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[yurtle]

Originally Posted by nickdalzell1

Your description though reminded me of my attempt (and last) at repairing a drive clutch on a TXT gas car, that was stuck closed. soon as I separated the cover the spring released (and made a boing!) and parts shot across the shop.

Good point on safety first. When troubleshooting, always use jack stands. Never work under any type of vehicle trusting just a floor jack. Flying parts and battery acid means use a quality pair of eye protection. I can't stand to wear leather gloves, but if you ever replace or service your springs (suspension and brakes), now's the time to get used to it. Finally, use extreme caution when "playing" with battery cables. One wrong move and...