1998 36 volt TXT making buzzing sound

[seeing the sights]

Hello all, New guy here I have had this cart for 15 years original controller was bad so I took it to a local place replaced with a FSIP 51-FX503G023K 500 AMP controller Today I replaced the rotten plywood on main seat and then wash it down at that time I heard a faint buzzing sound please take a look at the install the solenoid and wiring that was under cover before is now exposed.

Also changed out the rear end oil found one bolt on the "clamp" holding the axle bearing up worked its way out about 1/2 inch good catch.

This cart is going on a 3 1/2 trip Orlando then the Keys so I am doing what I can to have a problem free trip.

I have 2 questions

#1 Is that buzzing sound a problem it stops when it dries out, and is my install ok

#2 The place that did the work told me when not in use or charging set the tow/run switch to tow and place the rev/forward lever (old micro switches) in the "neutral position" also have key in the off position. I never heard of this to the guys that know the electrical path of the key,tow/run,rev/forward is this necessary I will do it but has anyone heard of this charging/not running procedure?

[bronsonj]

I never had the buzzing issue when wet, but I never washed down the electronics of the cart either.

I always put my f-n-r switch in Neutral just as a safety precaution and whenever I park the cart outside I also switch the run/tow to tow. So if someone wants to take the cart they need to flip the r/t switch, the f/n/r switch and have an EZGO key. And of course, when you plan to work on the cart or push/pull the cart you'll want it in tow as well. Other than that I have no idea why you would need it in tow mode just to charge or store it.

From your pic I did see it looks like your cables aren't stacked in the right order. You want the biggest, fatest cable on first, against the lead of the battery post. If it isn't, you'll add resistance because the other cable is between. It's not critical though.

[scottyb]

I see a 500 amp controller drawing power through a stock 50 amp solenoid.I think it needs a bigger solenoid. 200 amps. Sounds like they are afraid the solenoid will stay energized when not in use. Turning the key off is still a good idea when the cart is not in use. Putting it in neutral and flipping the R/T switch to tow sounds a bit extreme. Maybe you should ask them why all of this disconnection is needed with this particular install and ask if the stock 50 amp solenoid is expected to last with the 500 amp controller.

Also ride it for a while and place your hand on the solenoid it should not be more than 10º above ambient.

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I see a 500 amp controller drawing power through a stock 50 amp solenoid.I think it needs a bigger solenoid. 200 amps. Sounds like they are afraid the solenoid will stay energized when not in use. Turning the key off is still a good idea when the cart is not in use. Putting it in neutral and flipping the R/T switch to tow sounds a bit extreme. Maybe you should ask them why all of this disconnection is needed with this particular install and ask if the stock 50 amp solenoid is expected to last with the 500 amp controller.

Also ride it for a while and place your hand on the solenoid it should not be more than 10º above ambient.

I replaced a DCS controller with one of these GE conversions from FSIP a while back trying to save a customer a little money, and once the solenoid engages it doesn't disengage until you cycle the tow/run switch. I called and talked to a tech there, and he couldn't give me an answer as to why. I've used Alltrax ever since.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

[scottyb]

That is what I suspected, thanks for confirming. Did you use the stock solenoid also?

[jeremy98]

...

[jeremy98]

Originally Posted by mgray70

I replaced a DCS controller with one of these GE conversions from FSIP a while back trying to save a customer a little money, and once the solenoid engages it doesn't disengage until you cycle the tow/run switch. I called and talked to a tech there, and he couldn't give me an answer as to why. I've used Alltrax ever since.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

This control keeps the solenoid energized in order to activate a rollaway/walkaway feature. You can just rewire the solenoid and have it turn on and off with the key switch. You can remove the wire from the tow run switch to the positive solenoid post and put the three wires back like it originally was with the sx control and the solenoid shoudl work with the key switch.

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by scottyb

That is what I suspected, thanks for confirming. Did you use the stock solenoid also?

I did, but it was the smaller GE stock replacement. 250 amp I think.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by jeremy98

This control keeps the solenoid energized in order to activate a rollaway/walkaway feature. You can just rewire the solenoid and have it turn on and off with the key switch. You can remove the wire from the tow run switch to the positive solenoid post and put the three wires back like it originally was with the sx control and the solenoid shoudl work with the key switch.

That makes sense, but it looks like that design would burn up the solenoid coil prematurely, and also be a current drain if you forget to flip the switch.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

[Cobra,1]

I put my cart in tow position whenever it’s going to sit unused or when ever doing any maint., electrical work on cart.
I was told it would help keep the batteries charged longer as in tow position as the controller does’nt put any draw on batteries in tow.
Never tested the theory but does’nt seem to hurt anything