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Old 01-29-2011, 12:26 PM   #21
wizardket
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Default Re: Battery cables

Get Scotty's setup, you will not be sorry!
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Old 01-29-2011, 12:51 PM   #22
Gale Hawkins
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Default Re: Battery cables

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Get Scotty's setup, you will not be sorry!
Thanks for that source and I will send a PM. I am excited about taking them down to NAPA and try to match sizes.
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Old 01-29-2011, 03:30 PM   #23
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Default Re: Battery cables

Scotty's wires are silver soldered and sealed, NAPA will not do that. Though you can buy the shrink wrap at around $6 each and they will charge for each crimp but not solder them. Your choice of course.
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:13 PM   #24
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Default Re: Battery cables

Don't buy sparky cart cables at NAPA or any other auto parts store. That is low strand-count junk. Those cables are NOT engineered for the current levels these carts produce. They will not last, especially the lugs, which I have seen disintegrate within one year in the very active acidic battery bay of a cart. Those lugs are like aluminum foil compared to a solid copper lug.
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Old 01-29-2011, 07:50 PM   #25
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Default Re: Battery cables

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Don't buy sparky cart cables at NAPA or any other auto parts store. That is low strand-count junk. Those cables are NOT engineered for the current levels these carts produce. They will not last, especially the lugs, which I have seen disintegrate within one year in the very active acidic battery bay of a cart. Those lugs are like aluminum foil compared to a solid copper lug.
Agreed. It is welding cable... Made to conduct high welding amperage not 12v battery stuff.... The neoprene oil and fuel resistant jacket are a necessity with the acidic vapors. The 4 gauge strand count is well over 400 and the 2g is over 600 strands
Nothing else compares to that. And yes, I silver solder each end and use flame and acid resistant adhesive lined shrink wrap .... If you do the same the end result is an airtight solid connection that will last and last, just keep the lugs clean and coated... no air = no corrosion.
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Old 01-29-2011, 08:51 PM   #26
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Default Re: Battery cables

For those as green as I was about golf cart battery cables four hours ago I now think it is safe to say based on our new to us 2007 EZGO PDS if you have OEM cables they REQUIRE replacing.

Ours are now clean but some of the ends are very thin and the + cable to the controller has about 25% of the strands broke at the lug. I had one end on one cable running about 15 degrees warmer than the others were running about 10 degrees over air temps. I will get the batteries fully charged and test for temp differences again tomorrow.

We rode for two hours and it was still holding 13 on the flat and 9 MPH on steep hills.
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Old 01-31-2011, 05:39 PM   #27
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Default Re: Battery cables

I didn't mean to discourage you from upgrading cables at all. I'm running 2/0 gauge myself but I am not stock. I really think the gains in run time, if any, will be minimal on a stock set up going form 6 to 4 gauge. But that being said if I was in your position and needed to replace the cables anyway I would upgrade to 4 gauge.
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Old 01-31-2011, 06:19 PM   #28
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Default Re: Battery cables

A cart leaves the factory with cables designed to perform their function efficiently throught the first lease, just like the batteries. They will NOT spend more than they need to when they build them. I have seen perfectly good looking factory cables break in half and expose nothing but green dust inside the insulation jacket. I am not impressed with factory cables at all.
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Old 01-31-2011, 06:31 PM   #29
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Default Re: Battery cables

In light of gornoman's post I guess going heavy could mean a longer life as they degrade. We have a BEST UPS 48 volt bank and they must be 2 or larger but it can discharge the bank in one hour so that is a good size draw.

I notice a voltage drop on the hills in our cart to maybe 33 volts. Wonder if 4's or 2's would help in those brief periods?
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Old 01-31-2011, 08:11 PM   #30
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Default Re: Battery cables

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Originally Posted by Gale Hawkins View Post
In light of gornoman's post I guess going heavy could mean a longer life as they degrade. We have a BEST UPS 48 volt bank and they must be 2 or larger but it can discharge the bank in one hour so that is a good size draw.

I notice a voltage drop on the hills in our cart to maybe 33 volts. Wonder if 4's or 2's would help in those brief periods?
Your stock controller can only allow so many amps through at any time so ..... The system is only as good as the smallest link That is why we upgrade systems .... not a parts
We do upgrade in steps like F&R, then cables, then controller/solenoid, then motor... but at any point the system is only as strong as the weakest link....
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