Appling vinyl camo

[ddh2433]

Thinking about putting on vinyl camo sheets on the bodyand cowel how hard is it and is it worth it any tips please......

[Super Dave]

I put some large vinyl racing stripes on mine this past weekend and was happy with the results and money saved by doing it myself. Research various techniques on youtube - you'll find lots of good tutorials for applying large vinyl decals and body wraps. I found the "wet" method to be slower and more frustrating than the "dry" method. Just be sure to plan ahead, go slow, keep all the needed tools (squeegie, razor blade, ruler, masking tape) close at hand, properly clean and prep the surfaces, work slowly and deliberately, pay careful attention to what you're doing, and I'll bet you'll be pleased with the completed job! Good Luck!

[CCW]

I am a certified large format digital printer and wrap installer by trade (21 yrs. experience). Like paintwork, with proper preparation it is a great product and a great idea. It is however not for the amateur unless you are willing to use it as a learning experience and for all intense purposes DO NOT APPLY WET. As with any other manual art, its about technique, knowing when to stretch, how to and where to heat, how much heat as well as proper overlapping, chilling and little bonus tricks that are learned as you go. While it seems like it couldn't be that difficult, certification school isn't cheap and in the end it nets good paying customers. If you are fairly handy, it shouldn't be too frustration.

Here are the basics to follow:

1. Remove any and all feasible parts that will NOT be wrapped so the install will be cleaner in the end.
2. CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN and CLEAN again with a degreaser and let dry. (Drying is VERY critical)
3. CLEAN again with rubbing alcohol.
4. On any sharp corners or areas where you will tuck, heat or stretch the vinyl, use a 3M primer (adhesive promoter) found at your local auto body supply.
5. Do not use too much heat. Too much heat will make the film too pliable and will lose its adhesion.
6. Go slow and squeegee lightly with a felt covered squeegee. Rigid plastic squeegees will scratch the decal surface.
7. Once you use heat to tuck into corners or radiuses, immediately use an ice cold rag to rub over the heated area to help the film lose any memory and set the adhesive.
8. Lightly reheat the area you just cooled and then leave it alone. (Never let heat gun closer than about 6" from your decal and always keep heat gun moving)

If you need any more tips, let me know.

Thanks,
CCW

[ddh2433]

Thanks CCW for some insight it always help to here from experience. I will let you know how it turns out

[CCW]

Please do and if you need any install help during your install, PM me and I will shoot you my cell number.

[NickS]

Originally Posted by CCW

I am a certified large format digital printer and wrap installer by trade (21 yrs. experience). Like paintwork, with proper preparation it is a great product and a great idea. It is however not for the amateur unless you are willing to use it as a learning experience and for all intense purposes DO NOT APPLY WET. As with any other manual art, its about technique, knowing when to stretch, how to and where to heat, how much heat as well as proper overlapping, chilling and little bonus tricks that are learned as you go. While it seems like it couldn't be that difficult, certification school isn't cheap and in the end it nets good paying customers. If you are fairly handy, it shouldn't be too frustration.

Here are the basics to follow:

1. Remove any and all feasible parts that will NOT be wrapped so the install will be cleaner in the end.
2. CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN and CLEAN again with a degreaser and let dry. (Drying is VERY critical)
3. CLEAN again with rubbing alcohol.
4. On any sharp corners or areas where you will tuck, heat or stretch the vinyl, use a 3M primer (adhesive promoter) found at your local auto body supply.
5. Do not use too much heat. Too much heat will make the film too pliable and will lose its adhesion.
6. Go slow and squeegee lightly with a felt covered squeegee. Rigid plastic squeegees will scratch the decal surface.
7. Once you use heat to tuck into corners or radiuses, immediately use an ice cold rag to rub over the heated area to help the film lose any memory and set the adhesive.
8. Lightly reheat the area you just cooled and then leave it alone. (Never let heat gun closer than about 6" from your decal and always keep heat gun moving)

If you need any more tips, let me know.

Thanks,
CCW

This is why I decided against it. I was going to do it, but for the price of $300, they make it look easier online that I think it actually is. Not to mention the overlapping, up under the seat, etc... I have an '01 that is scratched up, and will be used as a hunting cart. I want something different, so I'm going to Herculiner the whole cart. We'll see how it turns out, then again, it is way cheaper than vinyl, and more of a rugged look.