2002 pds upgrade

[Paige Clark]

Just put a D&D motor and controller, went to 48 volts got everything installed including solenoid flipped run/tow to run after getting rear tires off the ground and I'm getting nothing, the solenoid is a curtis, rectangular in shape, the factory solenoid was round but I tried to conect everything off of that, solenoid is not clicking, new batteries is reading about 8.2 each, beeper has been disconnected on this cart before I got it, if I have the blue & yellow control wires backwards what would happen, and the small red wire that was on the left side of the round solenoid is that what activates the reverse beeper, any help would be appreciated!!

[Paige Clark]

I forgot to mention this 2002 pds will no longer have the regen brake and I also upgraded the cables to no. 2 welding cable on everything it has a 500 amp controller the instructions that came with controller said to discard the diode on the solenoid, so I did. I have the charger wires hooked up because I did not know if this model has a reed switch that would keep it from running, I had the rear body off to make it easier to install everything,thanks for any help!!

[JohnnieB]

To get a PDS controller to energize the solenoid, six sets of switch contacts have to be closed.
You no longer have a stock PDS controller, but the aftermarket one (whatever it is - you didn't give a model number) probably has the same requirements.

Measuring from the back side of the stock Molex plugs when they are plugged into the aftermarket controller, or cable that adapts them to it, you have to have B+ (Battery Pack Voltage) on the following:

J1 Pins 1, 4, 5, 8, 9 and either 2 or 3
J3 Pins 1, 2, 3 and 4
J4 Pins 1 and 2 (when pedal is pushed)

If you don't have B+ on all those pins, the solenoid won't click.

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With the diode removed (Hopefully it was a diode across the small terminals rather than the resistor across the big terminals) from the solenoid, it doesn't matter which way the yellow and blue wires are connected to the solenoid coil terminals.

BTW - The 250 Ohm resistor across the Main solenoid terminals has to be changed to higher value when going to a 48V system.

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Your new 8V batteries are deterioration as we speak. 8.2V is only about 65% State of Charge, and the plates start sulfating when SoC is below 70%. Charge them as soon as possible. Full charge is 8.49V

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The small red wire from the battery side of the main solenoid contacts feeds B+ to the reverse beeper as well as to J1-Pin 5 of the controller. The beeper is activated by supplying B- to via J1-Pin 10 (Green/Black wire)

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Hope that answers your questions

[Paige Clark]

JohnieB I was incorrect in the info. I gave on the diode I am reading this from the Instulation instructions sent with the D&D controller model 500 NP, It says to remove the precharged resistor and discard, sorry I am a novice but what is and where is these J1, J3, J4, on the schematic that came with it shows I have a 23 pin connector that goes to the controller, a run/tow connector, a pedal box connector, a main conector, they all come of the 23 pin connector. Thanks and bare with me.

[Paige Clark]

JohnnieB called my dad to plug my cart up to charge batteries after I read your post on my battery deteration he said that the charger never turned on so he unplugged it and plugged into his cart sitting right beside it which is 48 volt also and it started to cycle, was wondering if there is something to do with reed swith that would cause this if this model even has a reed switch.

[JohnnieB]

There is an adapter cable that plugs into the 23 Pin connector on the 500 NP controller. The cables that used to plug into the original PDS controller, now Plug into in-line jacks on that cable.

J1 is the Main Connector
J3 is the Run/Tow connector
J4 is the Pedal Box connector.

Hers is a diagram of the original PDS set-up. The Pin numbers are easier to see on it than the D&D schematic.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Paige Clark

JohnnieB called my dad to plug my cart up to charge batteries after I read your post on my battery deteration he said that the charger never turned on so he unplugged it and plugged into his cart sitting right beside it which is 48 volt also and it started to cycle, was wondering if there is something to do with reed swith that would cause this if this model even has a reed switch.

The Reed switch, whether it exist or not on your cart, will not prevent the battery charger from working.
It's sole function is to disable the controller so that the cart cannot be driven away while charger cable is plugged into it.
However, it could be why your solenoid won't click.

Ask your dad to try his charger with your cart. If it doesn't come on either, something is miswired in your cart, or his charger is a different model that senses the battery pack voltage differently than your charger does.

Need to know which charger and which charger receptacle being used to go any further.

[Paige Clark]

Thanks JohnnieB I will get you that info tonight his charger is the same brand that we ordered for mine but I don't remember what it is, I do know it has the same connector end as a factory ez-go plug his cart is a 2005 pds,mine is 2002 pds that is why I had him plug his charger to my cart for now I have my new charger at his house but I have not unpacked it yet. both carts are 48 volt conversions I am sure I don't have something wired correctly so I will use the schematic you showed me to check everything out. THANKS!!!

[Paige Clark]

JohnnieB I went to my parents started looki ng through all the boxes for a resistor and diode found it under packing material and installed it I used the schematic you showed me to test all the pins before I tried to do anything to the cart all pins showed battery pack voltage, your are awesome!!!!! plugged her up flipped the switch to run with the wheels off the floor of our shop slowly pressed the accelerator and the wheels started turning put it in reverse same results I'm very excited to test this baby out D&D should use your schematics to send to there customers because even a novice like me can understand your explanations. I opened up my new charger and they sent one with Club Car plug in, once I get that replaced should be ready to go after I get the batteries broken in properly. Thanks again JohnnieB and thanks BGW!!!! I will keep you guys posted how this thing performs.