Cart off - pre-charge resistor warm????

[93yellowclubcar]

Originally Posted by Sergio

That voltage should drop to zero after a little while.

Do you have the controller model with the A2 terminal?

The only other test would be to connect solenoid to B+ but remove the wire from controller B+ to motor and if the pre-charge still gets hot, then it is definitely the controller.

I guess a call to FSIP would confirm how much current they say it is needed to keep the controller capacitors charged.

No plug braking on this one.

Scotty's first test was to verify no power at pin #1. Second was to remove the M- cable and see if the resistor still gets hot. I did, and it does.

[scooterman]

So did you come to a conclusion yet?

[93yellowclubcar]

Originally Posted by scooterman

So did you come to a conclusion yet?

Working on it. FSIP Tech Support says try a 250 ohm resistor and see what happens. Scotty has one coming to me and I'll put it on Monday after work. Still doesn't explain the wonky positive voltage on the M- lug though.

[jjance]

My guess.

FSIP Tech Support says try a 250 ohm resistor and see what happens.

Less resistance more current flow. It's going to get hotter.

[93yellowclubcar]

Originally Posted by jjance

My guess.



Less resistance more current flow. It's going to get hotter.

I am thinking the same, but the FSIP tech guy says the cap bank isn't getting fully charged and he thinks the 470 ohm resistor is too much. I've never heard of a problem with it and I think the cap bank isn't getting fully charged because of the power I have on the M- terminal. Something inside has got to be shorted out and letting power escape from the controller when it should not. I'll see on Monday - it's hard for me to get home from work in time to catch FSIP's guys still in the office.

[scooterman]

When I upgraded to the 500A Curtis controller, they did away with that resistor completely. In your case I think it is a problem with the comtroller.

[jjance]

When I upgraded to the 500A Alltrax controller I measured the old resistor from the Curtis. It was 270 ohms. Even through the diagrams say it should be 470. That was from the factory.

[Volt_Ampere]

I Cry BullSH$T on that one. Smaller resistor = more current period! There is something drawing current other than the cap. Charging a cap is a time constant thing. It probably takes several seconds at most. Resistor would not get hot if that is all that was going on. To figure that out, you could put a meter across the resistor and measure the voltage. It should taper down to a low value as the cap charges.

[scooterman]

The lower resistance will only charge the caps quicker but if something else is drawing off it then it should get hotter than before.

[Oneil1018]

Did you ever find a fix for the resistor issue?

I just put everything together on my upgrade and am having the same issue.