Relay Wiring Help -- Diode Needed?

[Sergio]

Thanks guys, I also enjoy doing these kind of projects and am glad I could help out

[jroeiii]

So I had to change the turn signal flasher module, the old one crumbled in my hands when I tore the dash apart. When the turn signals are on, it makes the LEDs in the carling switches blink. It is related to the headlight circuit - which is connected to the tail lights / brake lights etc. It is a 3 prong flasher that I got from club car, obviously a newer style.

I am also noticing that when I have the radio on, and turn on the light bar and/or headlights the music gets softer - all the 12v (except the radio so it will keep the memory) is wired thru a voltage reducer.

A couple interesting ghosts going on here. Thoughts?

[Sergio]

As far as the Brake/Turn signal affecting the Marker lights, or in your case the LEDs from the switch, read this recent post:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1282081

You said everything but the radio is getting power from the voltage reducer, so Where is the radio getting power from?

[jroeiii]

Originally Posted by Sergio

As far as the Brake/Turn signal affecting the Marker lights, or in your case the LEDs from the switch, read this recent post:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1282081

You said everything but the radio is getting power from the voltage reducer, so Where is the radio getting power from?

Hardwired to Battery #2.

[Sergio]

A good voltage reducer will place a little less than 1/3 of the 12v current on the battery pack.

Turn the Radio OFF, the Light Bar and Head Light ON and measure the voltage on each of the 12v batteries.

If the Radio is using a separate and dedicated negative wire, Consider moving the Radio connection to the battery with the highest voltage reading.

[jroeiii]

Originally Posted by Sergio

A good voltage reducer will place a little less than 1/3 of the 12v current on the battery pack.

Turn the Radio OFF, the Light Bar and Head Light ON and measure the voltage on each of the 12v batteries.

If the Radio is using a separate and dedicated negative wire, Consider moving the Radio connection to the battery with the highest voltage reading.

My cart has 6 x 8 volt batteries. So I am using the (2) batteries producing ~ 17v. I swapped it directly to the voltage reducer and the results are the same. I can live with the volume being lower when the lights are on.

As far as the turn signals - none of them are working now - the switch LEDs still flash though! I'm assuming there are no hidden fuses for the turn signals, I know which wires goes to the front markers since I was installing sport mirrors with LEDs but even those aren't working. Any idea how to test it with a multi-meter? The flasher is clicking and the pilot light on the turn signal assembly flashes, but nada on light output.

[Sergio]

This the diagram I have for the turn signal assembly:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...nal_wiring.jpg

The best way to trouble shoot the turn signal is to isolate the problem between bulbs or control.

Just measure the voltage at the tailights with the brake pedal pressed (or the turn signal ON), if You have voltage the problem is the bulb, if not, check to make sure the source voltage is present at the turn signal assembly.

Unless the flasher You got specifically says it is for LEDs, it will not work. The regular flashers use a bi-metal design that depends on the higher current of regular bulbs to heat and flash/pulse correctly.

[jroeiii]

I made some more progress last night. I moved the ground from the grounding block under the seat to the grounding block WITH the NEG- from the Voltage Reducer. The flashing LEDs on the switches went away, but now either switch turns on the headlight / LED bar at the same time. My guess is the diode(s) could be failed - allowing voltage across the two circuits.

I ordered a new turn signal assembly and will try to continue troubleshooting that again tonight. The flasher is a normal flasher, and I picked up a spare just in case it is the problem. The taillights and brake lights are both working fine.

[Sergio]

Maybe the negative block under the seat is not connected to anything.

If You are still using the OBC, make sure your "negative block" is connected to controller B- and not directly to pack negative.

Also, regular flashers do not work right with LED bulbs, you need to make sure the flasher specifically states it is compatible with LEDs.

You can easily test the diodes using your multimeter to make sure they are OK, but based on the extremely low current and voltage you are applying to the 1N4006, it would be very unlikely for them to fail.

Just follow the circuit and make sure all diodes are oriented the correct direction and all wires are correctly connected to the switches and relay.

[jroeiii]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Maybe the negative block under the seat is not connected to anything.

If You are still using the OBC, make sure your "negative block" is connected to controller B- and not directly to pack negative.

Also, regular flashers do not work right with LED bulbs, you need to make sure the flasher specifically states it is compatible with LEDs.

You can easily test the diodes using your multimeter to make sure they are OK, but based on the extremely low current and voltage you are applying to the 1N4006, it would be very unlikely for them to fail.

Just follow the circuit and make sure all diodes are oriented the correct direction and all wires are correctly connected to the switches and relay.

OBC still used - the "negative block"is connected to the controller B-. The headlights are the only thing I can see wired there, and then a few stock components in the dash "negative block"

For the voltage reducer - should it be wired to the "negative block" for it's NEG- feed? Mine is currently connected to the Pack -. (pic attached Sea Choice Block on RIGHT -- 48v +/- for my voltage meter / voltage reducer only. From there the voltage reducer output NEG- leads to another Sea Choive block with circuit breaker. For any12v NEG- I use two runs and did not tie into either of the factory "negative" blocks.