2001 CC Pioneer FE350 smoking

[CP241]

Originally Posted by Aggiesdm

I read quite a bit of that thread the other day. Very nice job. I'll have to go back through it and really pay attention.

How long did it take you? I'd like to get it done ASAP to clear out my garage (wifey wants it out) and take it to the ranch. If I have all the parts in hand is it a weekend job?

I’ve done “one or two” if I have all the parts in hand ahead of time, I’d say a few hours. Takes longer to remove the motor than to tear it down and rebuild it. This is of course assuming the cylinder is clean and it doesn’t need to be bored. I don’t think I’ve ever had one I did have to have bored though, whatever they make these cylinders out of seems to be indestructible.

Definitely could easily be done as a weekend job if you’ve got everything in hand.

[raydhd]

Originally Posted by Aggiesdm

Hmm...interesting, but I'm not sure how to do any of that? I'll have to see if there's a YouTube video on that! Thanks

Plenty of youtube videos on the process. Again with an air cooled engine the cylinder head runs a lot hotter making the valve seal more prone to failure. BUT if the valve guides are bad that is another whole different deal.

[Aggiesdm]

Originally Posted by CP241

I’ve done “one or two” if I have all the parts in hand ahead of time, I’d say a few hours. Takes longer to remove the motor than to tear it down and rebuild it. This is of course assuming the cylinder is clean and it doesn’t need to be bored. I don’t think I’ve ever had one I did have to have bored though, whatever they make these cylinders out of seems to be indestructible.

Definitely could easily be done as a weekend job if you’ve got everything in hand.

Thanks man. I'm gonna give it a shot! I just need to find a good parts list or rebuild kit that will suffice.

Also, what do you know about the rear ends in these things? This one sounds pretty loose and won't go into reverse at all. Just grinds a horrible scary noise. Can they be rebuilt also? Where is your go-to parts house online?

[Aggiesdm]

Originally Posted by raydhd

Plenty of youtube videos on the process. Again with an air cooled engine the cylinder head runs a lot hotter making the valve seal more prone to failure. BUT if the valve guides are bad that is another whole different deal.

Thanks so much for the input Raydhd. I'm considering all options at this point, but leaning towards the rebuild. I enjoy learning new things and this seems like a feasible project for me! I may reconsider after some sleep.

[Aggiesdm]

Originally Posted by CP241

I’ve done “one or two” if I have all the parts in hand ahead of time, I’d say a few hours. Takes longer to remove the motor than to tear it down and rebuild it. This is of course assuming the cylinder is clean and it doesn’t need to be bored. I don’t think I’ve ever had one I did have to have bored though, whatever they make these cylinders out of seems to be indestructible.

Definitely could easily be done as a weekend job if you’ve got everything in hand.

Also saw that you had a couple of engine-specific tools, like the valve spring compressor, 3 jaw puller and the honing stones. Is there anything else you can think of that would be specific to this job? I have a pretty extensive tool set, but not those items.

[CP241]

First, disconnect the shifter cable from the rear end and manually shift it into reverse with the lever on the trans. If it works fine there then it’s a bad cable or misadjusted cable. If it doesn’t change anything then it’s time to go in. I’ve been into the golf cart rear end but I don’t know if yours is different since it’s a pioneer…

No special tools really necessary. Honing stones are important. Don’t want to go crazy on the cylinder, just take off the glaze. Shouldn’t take more than about 10-15 seconds. Plenty on YouTube for that.

You’ll want a good clutch puller. You can make one but sometimes that can backfire, especially if you don’t use hardened steel. That sonofa- mushrooms inside the end of the crankshaft and the clutch is still on, you won’t be happy lol.

Some valve lapping compound is good to have while the valves are out. You can get that pretty much anywhere. Just use the “fine” tube. Course is too much.

[Aggiesdm]

Originally Posted by CP241

First, disconnect the shifter cable from the rear end and manually shift it into reverse with the lever on the trans. If it works fine there then it’s a bad cable or misadjusted cable. If it doesn’t change anything then it’s time to go in. I’ve been into the golf cart rear end but I don’t know if yours is different since it’s a pioneer…

No special tools really necessary. Honing stones are important. Don’t want to go crazy on the cylinder, just take off the glaze. Shouldn’t take more than about 10-15 seconds. Plenty on YouTube for that.

You’ll want a good clutch puller. You can make one but sometimes that can backfire, especially if you don’t use hardened steel. That sonofa- mushrooms inside the end of the crankshaft and the clutch is still on, you won’t be happy lol.

Some valve lapping compound is good to have while the valves are out. You can get that pretty much anywhere. Just use the “fine” tube. Course is too much.

Unfortunately I tried removing the shifter cable already and...no change. I think it needs to be opened up. It looks pretty straight forward from what I've been able to find. Once again...gotta get a parts list first.

Where do you trust to buy parts? Is there an online vendor? Someone on BGW?

[CP241]

Call David hicks at revolution golf cars. Couldn’t ask to do business with a better guy. He’s also a club car dealer so can get all oem parts and not the crappy aftermarket stuff.

[Aggiesdm]

Originally Posted by CP241

First, disconnect the shifter cable from the rear end and manually shift it into reverse with the lever on the trans. If it works fine there then it’s a bad cable or misadjusted cable. If it doesn’t change anything then it’s time to go in. I’ve been into the golf cart rear end but I don’t know if yours is different since it’s a pioneer…

No special tools really necessary. Honing stones are important. Don’t want to go crazy on the cylinder, just take off the glaze. Shouldn’t take more than about 10-15 seconds. Plenty on YouTube for that.

You’ll want a good clutch puller. You can make one but sometimes that can backfire, especially if you don’t use hardened steel. That sonofa- mushrooms inside the end of the crankshaft and the clutch is still on, you won’t be happy lol.

Some valve lapping compound is good to have while the valves are out. You can get that pretty much anywhere. Just use the “fine” tube. Course is too much.

What grit of honing stone do you use? I see 120g ones on Amazon. Would that work?

[CP241]

Originally Posted by Aggiesdm

What grit of honing stone do you use? I see 120g ones on Amazon. Would that work?

This is what I use. I’ve had good luck with them. AMPRO T71797 1 1/4-Inch to 3 1/2-Inch Disc Brake and Engine Cylinder Hone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A4AI972...ing=UTF8&psc=1