Cart just died like you slowly turned down the voltage

[stustep]

48 volt CC aproximately a 2000 model. I purchased it used from Club Car in Augusta before the quit selling to the public. It appears to be rebuilt and has no mfg. serial number. This is a DS Regen2 Sepex according to the info from this site. This weekend I was riding it when it just slowly came to a stop like you turned down the voltage.

Here is what I have tested so far:
Batteries are two years old with a pack voltage of 51 volts
All batteries are within .02 volts of each other
All new battery cables and clean terminals
Tested with Multimeter: F&R rocker switch, key switch, Run & Tow switch and all checked out.
Checked the micro switch in the v-glide
Checked and cleaned the v-glide and it is fine.
Checked all fuses.

I have the rear jacked up on stands, key switch on, in forward, and the pedal to the floor I get the following:
When standing at the back of the cart, the solenoid on the left (with the big resistor) will click when the pedal is mashed. It has pack voltage of 51 volts across the two large terminals ONLY when I use the negative probe of my multimeter and the positive probe is touching positive on the battery pack. When I measure it like you think you should, (negative probe to ground and positive probe to posts on the solenoid) I get almost no voltage on either post and 49 volts on one small post and .79 volts on the other small post.
The solenoid on the right side of the controller gives me 51 volts when I put a negative probe on one large post and a positive probe on the other large post. I get 50.4 volts on one small post and 50 volts on the other small post.

The motor has voltage of .3 volts at F1, 3.1 volts at F2, 4.4 volts at A1 and.6 volts at A2 while the pedal is to the floor, switch in forward, and key switch on and tow/run set to run.

When I do the same scenario as above, but put nothing on the pedal, I get 50 volts at A1 and A2 and nothing at F1 and F2.

In addition, when I push the pedal, I hear the solenoid click as it has always done, I hear the whine began and the rear tires turn just barely. They might move an inch. The the whine just fades away to nothing.

I'm not real sure on how to test the controller or the motor.

I'm thinking bad controller but given this is my first experience in working on a cart, I wanted more opinions and suggestions. Thanks in advance.

[Newest Obsession]

I'm having a simular problem and just bought new batts..

[stustep]

Originally Posted by Newest Obsession

I'm having a simular problem and just bought new batts..

I may be wrong, but I don't think it is my batteries. I drove the cart all day the day before without an issue. Charged it over night, ran it for about five minutes when it quit.

[Newest Obsession]

Originally Posted by stustep

I may be wrong, but I don't think it is my batteries. I drove the cart all day the day before without an issue. Charged it over night, ran it for about five minutes when it quit.

Right, that was my point. I bought new batts thinking it would fix the problem and it does the exact same thing.

If you sit for a minute will does it seam to regenerate power and go??

[cheapjeep2]

Even though the solenoid is clicking, have you put a 6 ga jumper wire across the two big leads of the solenoid? If not, try this will the cart is on jack stands and slowly press the throttle, if it works you have a bad solenoid. If not then the problem is somewhere, most likely the controller but before getting a controller you can test the motor.

To test the motor, disconnect power at the battery back. Disconnect the motor leads...

Put your meter on continuity or ohms setting. You should have continuity between:

A1 & A2, S1 & S2, but not from either A posts to the case or the S posts, and not from either S post to the case or the A posts.

You can also to a power test with the motor and a 12 volt battery charger while it's in the cart. Since this is a shunt motor.. Use 6 gauge jumper wires (can use a couple of battery wires if needed). Tie S1 to A1 and S2 to A2 then those combination's to the 12v battery charger set on the highest amp setting. If the motor turns, then it's good. See the link for the diagram on how to wire, you want the bottom diagram.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...otor-tests.jpg

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by stustep

48 volt CC aproximately a 2000 model. I purchased it used from Club Car in Augusta before the quit selling to the public.

I'm in Augusta as well... Evans actually... Let me know if you don't get it figured out.

[golfcarfixer]

If the wheels just move a little you probably have a solenoid dropping out.In other words it is bad.

[stustep]

Ok. Thanks to all who posted a suggestion. I wired and tested the motor with a battery charger and the motor is turning in reverse. So at least the motor appears to be good. I have tried jumpering the posts on the solenoid and it seems to make no difference it still won't run. So based on that information I am guessing that it is the controller?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by stustep

Ok. Thanks to all who posted a suggestion. I wired and tested the motor with a battery charger and the motor is turning in reverse. So at least the motor appears to be good. I have tried jumpering the posts on the solenoid and it seems to make no difference it still won't run. So based on that information I am guessing that it is the controller?

Not necessarily. The controller has to power up before it can tell the solenoid to click... but in order for it to power up, it must have power... The OBC actually provides power to the controller. If the OBC is bad, the controller won't pick up a ground, and won't power up. So it may be the OBC and not actually the controller. Does the reverse buzzer work? If so, the controller is powered up and the OBC can be ruled out.