Stock 88ezgo gas, runs only with constant choke adjusting

[Dave Box]

Your little Robin engine (like all two strokes) relies on crankcase pressure oscillations to drive the fuel pump and transfer fuel from the carburetor to the crankcase and then to the cylinder. The problem with your abnormally low compression ratio is that the gasses escaping passed your piston rings are changing the pressure and the mixture ratio of the fuel in the crankcase. You say " I have compression of 65-70 which is borderline I think." I say tom-ar-tow. It is time to invest in a top end rebuild kit. Whether or not you you rebuild the bottom end as well is your call but you should replace both the crankshaft oil seals whilst you have the engine on the bench. Replacing the seals or more specifically removing the clutch and the flywheel is about as much fun as having bowel surgery in the woods with a stick but just like the surgery it is a good feeling when it is over. If you have the slightest mechanical ability and a few basic tools the people here will walk you through it. The upside is that a 2PG in good condition runs rings around a standard four cycle.

Dave

[Dave Box]

BAM !! and BCM and I post at the same time, but look we both say that a rebuild is in your future.

Dave

[Pitbull Joe]

Great info guy, I know it wasn't aimed towards me but I appreciate the lesson.

[firehorse]

Thanks for the help all. i pulled the engine out power washed it and pulled the jug to find a broken ring. 183.00 for complete top end. Its on it's way! I am vacillating on the seals as they (the one I can see) look good, ie, not telltale gunk round it. I have a week to wait for the top end Maybe I will get the courage to pull them precautionary! Thanks again for the quick responses

[Pitbull Joe]

Follow your mind, I know I would hate to have it all apart and not doing only to find out they need replacing down the road. At least that's how my luck usually goes.

[Dave Box]

You're welcome Firehorse, but you really should change those seals. Also don't forget that the port in the piston must face the carburetor. Get in wrong and the engine will run but barely. The subsequent fault finding will drive you insane.

Dave

[firehorse]

Dave, Do you still stand by the "bowel surgery in the wood with a sharp stick description??

[Dave Box]

Yes indeed, removing the clutch and the flywheel are not difficult technically (both are a press fit) the issue is that they are inevitably rusted on. Copious quantities of PB Blaster will work but in both cases you will probably end up tightening the puller, having a beer, tightening the puller, having a cry and so on. That said they will eventually come off. For the clutch you will need a puller or you can use a 3/4 inch hard steel bolt 2 inches long with a 9/16ths steel rod 3 inches long. For the flywheel a cheap two arm steering wheel puller will work although you will also need to get two M6 bolts to fit to the flywheel. (The engine is Japanese, therefore metric).

Good luck

Dave

[BrewCityMusic]

^What Dave said^

As well as just another precautionary warning, that Flywheel very well could suck far worse than any of us have described - in fact, I've actually blocked out the entire procedure after years of therapy so if things go bad for You, ask Dave. Seriously.

(I only say that because inevitably after the standard precautionary warnings, it generally pops right off for the guy You're trying to warn. I base this of course on the initial advice *I* recieved, which amounted to "pull the flywheel" as a minute part of a procedure that ended up in me having to buy all new clothes as I was almost 4" shorter by the time it was finally done. )

NOW - all that being said, SERIOUSLY spend the $10 on a pair of crank seals, I'm not kidding. They tend to last for several years, so given that the top end is weak I would guess that it's not worth taking a chance that they were replaced since the top end was new, follow where I'm going? Besides, Dave will get to tell You the story of how You have to be careful NOT to try and pry against the crankcase, etc or You could break it, which I find to be quite amusing ... Jeez, suddenly I'm not being so helpful anymore, am I ?!?!?

It's really an easy job - we Kid around here a lot but we'll be there to help in any way we can and trust me, it's actually NOT that big of a deal once You get everything loose and off. Another point to note, the backwards piston happens to the BEST of us but You also need to make sure the rings are in the right way around (meaning up and down) or You'll also have some issues. Once You get the kit and are ready to roll, I'm sure noone (myself included) are above PM'ing a phone number if You really need more help than the instructions provide (which is unlikely).

Not to mention You know what "Vacillating" means - so You're already ahead of the curve, LOL

BUY THE SEALS.

[firehorse]

I quit listening to the "do it the easy way voice" and now am b***s deep into coaxing the flywheel and clutch off. I got a 3/4 hardened bolt, 5/8 rod and M6 bolts as suggested. The 3/4 was coarse thread and the M6's were a half inch too short. I got a fine thread 3/4 and made a special trip across town for 5" M6 bolts. I have already had to straighten the M6's and am doing the wait and hope with the PB blaster soaking the threads. There is no obvious rust but it must be there puttin on the death grip! Any other nuggets of wisdom to share with me at this point? Thanks