need help! dcs clicks but wont move

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by mazdawg(Mikey)

how does the controller send signal to the motor? ive got an A1 and A2 post that has 36v each and also an S1 and S2 that have nothing at all at them or going to them. what does the controller send to the motor thru these wires?

The controller is an electrical valve that regulates how many Amps the motor is allowed to draw. A DCS cart has a Sepex (separately excited) motor, so the controller actually has two electric valves, one for the Armature (A1 & A2 cables) and a separate one for the the Stator (S1 & S2 cables) windings. (Note: In a PDS cart the stationary windings are called Field windings and the cables are labeled F1 & F2)

The throttle input to the controller tells the controller how far to open the valve to the Armature and something that is called a Field Map, tells the controller how far to open the valve going to the Stator (Field) windings based on amp flow through the Armature and some other factors.

I'm not sure how high the Stator voltage gets in a DCS, but in a PDS, which is what replaced the DCS, it only gets up to about 2.7V.

If you are getting Zero volts between the S1 and S2 terminals on the motor, disconnect the S1 and S2 cables at the controller and measure between the two cables with an Ohmmeter.
If you don't have continuity, the cables or the motor is bad.
If you do have continuity, the controller might be bad.

[mazdawg(Mikey)]

yeah ive got continuity between each one. im just gonna give up and buy a controller. hell i need a better one in the long run anyway. i just was hoping to drive it till i buy a better one.

[JohnnieB]

A DCX400 will give you more speed and torque and you'll love it.

[mazdawg(Mikey)]

yeah thats what i want to get from scotty. i just dont have $500 in my budget.

on a side note i took the cover off of the controller and the prong that my S2 wire attaches to is broken loose from the solder connections and the S1 prong is loose. im gonna try and reattach these and see if that does anything

[mazdawg(Mikey)]

ok so i picked up a used controller and i want to make sure i install it right and not mess it up as well. as long as the key isnt switched on and the switch is in the maintenance position i can make all my connections without a problem correct? do i connect to the batteries before or after connecting to the controller?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by mazdawg(Mikey)

ok so i picked up a used controller and i want to make sure i install it right and not mess it up as well. as long as the key isnt switched on and the switch is in the maintenance position i can make all my connections without a problem correct? do i connect to the batteries before or after connecting to the controller?

The last cable connection I usually make is the main positive battery cable because it is the easiest to get to.
It will spark a little if the pack has been disconnected from the controller for several minutes or more. (Filter capacitors in the controller)

Of course, the last step is placing the Run/Tow switch to RUN.

[mazdawg(Mikey)]

it moves! the controller was indeed bad. I swapped it out with another one and it works great! thanks to everyone including JohnnyB for the help and info.