G8E good reverse, no forward

[cgtech]

Yes, yours may still be rebuildable. But, here is another option. All clubcar "series motors" are also a direct bolt-in for old "10 spline" yamahas, i would suggest sticking with stock motors with your stock controller (cheaper than "hotrod" motor too).

[kjewer1]

I'm pretty sure the controller took one for the team when the motor went. It was smoking from that area anyway. Any risk to a new or rebuilt motor if I try it? What are my options for controllers? Normally when I break stuff I use it as an excuse to upgrade, but this thing just needs to work, I was happy with the stock stuff when it worked. :)

[cgtech]

A bad controller hurting a motor is not something i have ever heard of. But, do any testing with rear wheels off ground, so your golf cart has no chance of becoming a "un-manned drone".

[cgtech]

An Spm300 or 400 would be adequate (and easy jump to 48v in the future, if 33% more speed & power is desired). Fsip may offer rebuilding services for your controller.

[kjewer1]

Understood. Thanks again for the replies cgtech, you've been a huge help. I might end up going new/aftermarket (but inexpensive) on everything to just get it over with and get back to racing.

[kjewer1]

Well, I finally have a minor update. I just put a new motor in it. It still doesn't work, so I'm sure the controller is smoked, as I feared. Something smoked and smelled pretty bad when the motor grenaded. When I hook up the last lead to the battery I get a nice arc from it, but if I keep tapping it, it dies down to nothing unless I wait a while and do it again. Seems like its charging up some caps or something. Either way, if I leave the lead on, it doesn't run. I get the click from the solenoid but that's it. Also, if I put the meter across the battery pack negative and the last lead to the controller, I get full battery voltage, like it's a dead short. At any rate...

Speaking of the solenoid, I found today that it has continuity all the time. It doesn't always click on either, it's pretty intermittent now. I don't remember if it was always like that. So I'll probably replace that as well either way, something is up with it. The contacts welded together when the motor went perhaps, or maybe it was always like this, not sure. It also doesn't seem to make any difference if the key switch is on or off. I need to go through all the wiring on this thing, I think someone messed with it in the past.

Off to look for a controller now.

[kjewer1]

Update. I ordered a new controller (SPM400) and solenoid kit from Scotty B/Carts Unlimited. Couldn't be happier with the service. Got it all installed and then found a bad throttle sensor. Watching the monitor screen in the software made it obvious. It'a also nice to be able to set the current limit down to 20 amps or so, so you can play with the throttle without the motor taking off like a bat out of hell. Just got a new throttle sensor installed, changed the type to match, made some adjustments, and it all works finally.

At this point the whole **** thing is new, except the F&R switch, which still looks really good. I set it to 200 amps, should be all I need. Took it for a short test drive and it seems good to me. :)

Thank again everyone for the help, I appreciate it.

[cgtech]

Sweet! Glad to see another problem resolved. 200a is kinda low, BUT, if it works for you, the stress on the system will be really low. Plus you can always "ramp it up" a little if needed. yay