Trojan T-875 battery question

[Fairtax4me]

At some point there was probably some aftermarket accessory connected to those the batteries which caused them to discharge constantly. The lead plates in those two batteries are sulfated and changing the acid in them will only further decrease their capacity. Plate sulfation is basically the formation of sulfur crystals on the lead plates in the battery.
As a battery discharges the sulfur in the liquid is drawn out and sticks to the lead plates in the battery. Eventually the liquid in a fully discharged battery will be almost pure water. (Not quite but close) This is why the specific gravity lowers as the battery discharges. When the battery is recharged the sulfur is drawn away from the plates and absorbed back into the water, Increasing the specific gravity.

There are methods for removing the sulfate from the battery plates. There are some home-brew type methods that I don't recommend because they often have the potential to completely destroy the battery. The best way is to use a desulfating battery charger which uses a variable high frequency charge cycle to help disolve the sulfate in a controlled method. These types of chargers tend to be expensive though.
The other way it can be done is with a high amp 12v battery charger. You bring the battery to its full charge capacity then use varying charge amp settings on the charger for short intervals with pauses in between to allow the battery to rest. This gradually reduces the sulfate buildup on the plates if done carefully.
Club car battery chargers actually have a desulfating charge technique which mostly consists of overcharging the pack. Problem is it does the entire pack so it doesn't really do you much good in this case.

IMO the best thing you can do is leave that 32v reducer on there and run the cart the way it is for another three to six months or so. The slight overcharge those two cells will get when the pack is charging will not likely hurt them and may decrease the level of sulfation on the plates.
Trojan batteries are the best in the business and they hold up extremely well and last longer than any other brand even in not-so-ideal conditions. If those two batteries continue to fall and they need to be replaced then it will be safe to replace just those two.
If they start to rebound keep running it and they will likely be just fine for the rest of the usable life of that pack.
If it's something the really bothers you, then the only 100% guaranteed to fix it option right now is the replace the entire pack right now and install a 48v reducer. How bad do you wanna spend $1200 right now?

[theboss20]

One other possibility is to rotate the positions of the batteries...many times in a series system this extends the life of the pack.😎

[Down South]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

At some point there was probably some aftermarket accessory connected to those the batteries which caused them to discharge constantly. The lead plates in those two batteries are sulfated and changing the acid in them will only further decrease their capacity. Plate sulfation is basically the formation of sulfur crystals on the lead plates in the battery.
As a battery discharges the sulfur in the liquid is drawn out and sticks to the lead plates in the battery. Eventually the liquid in a fully discharged battery will be almost pure water. (Not quite but close) This is why the specific gravity lowers as the battery discharges. When the battery is recharged the sulfur is drawn away from the plates and absorbed back into the water, Increasing the specific gravity.

There are methods for removing the sulfate from the battery plates. There are some home-brew type methods that I don't recommend because they often have the potential to completely destroy the battery. The best way is to use a desulfating battery charger which uses a variable high frequency charge cycle to help disolve the sulfate in a controlled method. These types of chargers tend to be expensive though.
The other way it can be done is with a high amp 12v battery charger. You bring the battery to its full charge capacity then use varying charge amp settings on the charger for short intervals with pauses in between to allow the battery to rest. This gradually reduces the sulfate buildup on the plates if done carefully.
Club car battery chargers actually have a desulfating charge technique which mostly consists of overcharging the pack. Problem is it does the entire pack so it doesn't really do you much good in this case.

IMO the best thing you can do is leave that 32v reducer on there and run the cart the way it is for another three to six months or so. The slight overcharge those two cells will get when the pack is charging will not likely hurt them and may decrease the level of sulfation on the plates.
Trojan batteries are the best in the business and they hold up extremely well and last longer than any other brand even in not-so-ideal conditions. If those two batteries continue to fall and they need to be replaced then it will be safe to replace just those two.
If they start to rebound keep running it and they will likely be just fine for the rest of the usable life of that pack.
If it's something the really bothers you, then the only 100% guaranteed to fix it option right now is the replace the entire pack right now and install a 48v reducer. How bad do you wanna spend $1200 right now?

Thanks for the good info. I had pretty much thought the same myself. I'm been working with those two batteries a bit using a 12 V charger on each one at a time for an hr or two at a time.
I have a smart charger that I can set from 2-12 Amp. I've been bringing them up with the CC charger then working on them with my portable charger with a 4 Amp setting for 30 min ea at a time.
If I fry em, I'll buy a new pack.

[Down South]

Originally Posted by theboss20

One other possibility is to rotate the positions of the batteries...many times in a series system this extends the life of the pack.��

I thought about that but I believe it is too late.
I do have a price request out to one of our Sponsors for a 48/12V reducer so when I do change the pack, I won't have to worry about this problem again...