97 DCS won't go

lugster · 06-12-2014, 10:37 AM

The batts still need replace but I was able to charge them up to like 38v. Now nothing runs, there is no click from the solenoid (?) when i turn the key or the switch from tow to run. I replaced the controller with an alltrax 400 amp approx 5 years ago. Not sure if the solenoid was replaced, the micro switches seem to be working. Any quick ideas, should I just do the troubleshooting on the main page?

JohnnieB · 06-12-2014, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lugster

The batts still need replace but I was able to charge them up to like 38v. Now nothing runs, there is no click from the solenoid (?) when i turn the key or the switch from tow to run. I replaced the controller with an alltrax 400 amp approx 5 years ago. Not sure if the solenoid was replaced, the micro switches seem to be working. Any quick ideas, should I just do the troubleshooting on the main page?

No, you have an Alltrax controller installed, so a DCS troubleshooting guide may not apply. (It would be close though, a DCX controller is Plug-n-Play in a DCS cart)

Does the Green LED come on?
If so, the problem is the pedal microswitch.

If not, check for full pack voltage on Pins 6, 9 and 10.
Trace the missing voltage on the attached schematic.

Let us know what you find and we will go from there.

lugster · 06-12-2014, 06:17 PM

thanks, won't be back to it for 2 weeks but will be sure to provide the info after that!

lugster · 06-28-2014, 10:38 AM

So I measured the voltage and #6 was 0v, 9 was 28v and 10 was 37.7v (correct pack), does this mean that key switch is bad? Do I just connect the wires to check?

JohnnieB · 06-28-2014, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lugster

So I measured the voltage and #6 was 0v, 9 was 28v and 10 was 37.7v (correct pack), does this mean that key switch is bad? Do I just connect the wires to check?

Two problems: Low voltage on Pin-9 and no voltage on Pin-6.

The voltage to both pins comes from the reed switch in the charge receptacle and goes through the Run/Tow switch and is connected to the F/R switch. Voltage to Pin-9 splits off at this point. It should be the same as pack voltage, so there is a a bad connection someplace in this path.

Voltage to Pin-6 continues from where the voltage to Pin-9 split off and goes through the "Run" microswitch on the F/R switch assembly and then through the keyswitch to one of the mall terminals on the solenoid, were it splits off and goes to Pin-6. So the no voltage problem on Pin-6 could be the rune microswitch, or the keyswitch, or one of several wires and connections.

lugster · 06-29-2014, 01:40 PM

The LED light is not on. The key switch is good. Voltage drop from the batt side to controller side of solenoid is normal. No solenoid click. No voltage to small solenoid terminal when pedal is pushed. Until I figured out the charging issue, I ran the pack pretty low.

sonnysmith · 06-29-2014, 05:22 PM

Do you think, It could be the sonic weld in the wiring harness ????

JohnnieB · 06-30-2014, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lugster

1. The LED light is not on.
2. The key switch is good.
3. Voltage drop from the batt side to controller side of solenoid is normal.
4. No solenoid click.
5. No voltage to small solenoid terminal when pedal is pushed.
6. Until I figured out the charging issue, I ran the pack pretty low.

1. Without battery pack voltage on Pins 6, 9 & 10, the controller will not power up, so the LED will not illuminate.
2. That's one possibility down, several to go. (IE: The run microswitch on F/R assemble and the sonic weld in wiring harness that sonnysmith mentioned to name two.)
3. Nice to know, but not troubleshooting the high current circuit at the moment.
4. Solenoid is activated by controller, so it won't click until controller is power up.
5. Pack voltage on one of the solenoid's small terminals should exist whether pedal is pushed or not. Pushing the pedal tells the controller to apply B- to the other small terminal via Pin-7.
6. May have damaged batteries, but probably didn't hurt the DCX controller. The stock DCS controller (Curtis 1206SX) is killed by low pack voltage, the aftermarket replacement (Alltrax DCX) is not.

Focus on getting full battery pack voltage to Pins 6, 9 & 10 to power up the controller.

The connection (Sonic Weld) within the control wiring harness between the Org/Red wire from the Run/Tow switch and the Red wires going to the F/R switch assembly and Pin-9 is a likely suspect.

lugster · 06-30-2014, 10:02 PM

thanks for the info! printed everything up and will give another go this weekend!

lugster · 07-07-2014, 10:17 AM

bad news, cart was down couple of weekends for the forward micro switch (which I should have known). I actually repaired it a couple of years ago and kind of forgot how it worked.
Good news is getting better at trouble shooting and the batteries seem to be making a bit of a comeback. Ran it most of the day and it still had juice, Napa Deka batteries on their 8th summer!
I jumped the switch temporarily until the new one arrives this week.
Thanks for all the help!!

06-12-2014, 10:37 AM	#1
lugster Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: north east ohio Posts: 213	97 DCS won't go The batts still need replace but I was able to charge them up to like 38v. Now nothing runs, there is no click from the solenoid (?) when i turn the key or the switch from tow to run. I replaced the controller with an alltrax 400 amp approx 5 years ago. Not sure if the solenoid was replaced, the micro switches seem to be working. Any quick ideas, should I just do the troubleshooting on the main page?

06-12-2014, 06:17 PM	#3
lugster Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: north east ohio Posts: 213	Re: 97 DCS won't go thanks, won't be back to it for 2 weeks but will be sure to provide the info after that!

06-28-2014, 10:38 AM	#4
lugster Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: north east ohio Posts: 213	Re: 97 DCS won't go So I measured the voltage and #6 was 0v, 9 was 28v and 10 was 37.7v (correct pack), does this mean that key switch is bad? Do I just connect the wires to check?

06-29-2014, 05:22 PM	#7
sonnysmith Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Conway,Arkansas 72032 Posts: 775	Re: 97 DCS won't go Do you think, It could be the sonic weld in the wiring harness ????

06-30-2014, 10:02 PM	#9
lugster Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: north east ohio Posts: 213	Re: 97 DCS won't go thanks for the info! printed everything up and will give another go this weekend!

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06-29-2014, 01:40 PM	#6
lugster Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: north east ohio Posts: 213	Re: 97 DCS won't go The LED light is not on. The key switch is good. Voltage drop from the batt side to controller side of solenoid is normal. No solenoid click. No voltage to small solenoid terminal when pedal is pushed. Until I figured out the charging issue, I ran the pack pretty low.

07-07-2014, 10:17 AM	#10
lugster Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: north east ohio Posts: 213	Re: 97 DCS won't go bad news, cart was down couple of weekends for the forward micro switch (which I should have known). I actually repaired it a couple of years ago and kind of forgot how it worked. Good news is getting better at trouble shooting and the batteries seem to be making a bit of a comeback. Ran it most of the day and it still had juice, Napa Deka batteries on their 8th summer! I jumped the switch temporarily until the new one arrives this week. Thanks for all the help!!