Main solenoid to keyswitch instead of footswitch

[Turnofftheradio]

Obviously, there is going to be some concession to safety but I'd like to hear a few thoughts.

My Citicar runs an alltrax sr48600 and a 400a solenoid. My solenoid coil failed last week. Contacts were still like new. I could cut the cycles of the solenoid 100 to 1 by wiring it to the keyswitch rather than the footswitch, and possibly gaining some more life from it. As a car vs a cart, I never leave the key on without me in it. How bad of an idea is that?

[ThreeCW]

My 1998 Cushman Hawk is wired to the key switch with no foot switch. The difference is that I have a seat switch (operators presence switch) which disconnects the solenoid when no one is in the drivers seat.

What is the make and model of your solenoid? How many years of did you get from it?

Some of the premium electric vehicle contactors might suited for your use. As an example, the Tyco solenoid that I now have in my cart (installed in 2017) is rated for 500 amps continuous, 1 million cycle mechanical life and in excess of 100,000 make and break power switchings at 100 amps. See attached spec sheet for more information.

[Turnofftheradio]

I use the MZJ-400. The big one sold as an upgrade to most. I've done some exploring with the multimeter, and the tiny contacts under the bottom cover that open when the contacts close failed open. I cleaned them and maybe it's ok, but I replaced it anyway. I had about a year, and 1000 miles on it. I would be ok with some sort of seat switch or seatbelt switch.

[scottyb]

The only danger to the solenoid would be leaving it activated 8-10 hours thus exceeding the duty cycle.

[Turnofftheradio]

From what I can tell, it would seem unlikely that an alltrax controller could fail closed. I think I'll swap some wires around.

[Sergio]

Keep the Alltrax KSI terminal activated by the pedal switch and only put the solenoid positive activation on the key switch.

You also don't want to use the Alltrax Black SOL- terminal, make sure the solenoid negative activation goes to B- or another negative source so not to overheat the Alltrax internal relay driver.

It should work fine, the seat switch would be a good add-on.

[ThreeCW]

Originally Posted by Turnofftheradio

I use the MZJ-400. The big one sold as an upgrade to most. I had about a year, and 1000 miles on it.

I would be pretty disappointed with only getting a year out of a solenoid ... it is often cheaper in the long run to pay the extra for higher quality parts that are fit for your purpose.

[Turnofftheradio]

Although I am disappointed in the life of that solenoid, I don't think it's the wrong one for my application. It's still oversized, and the contacts themselves show nearly zero use. As just about anything made overseas, it's going to be a crap shoot. If this one doesn't last though I'll have to change it to something better. I can't tell if there was a tiny piece of crud or oxidation on that tiny bottom contact under the black cover.
Sergio, you have giving me something to think about with your suggestion of wiring changes. Thanks!

[Sergio]

The other advantage of keeping the Controller KSI on the pedal micro-switch, in addition to the safety aspect is that You will keep the same throttle calibration values.

That little aux contact that switches the two coils is the only thing I heard other folks having issues.

If Your Solenoid came with any real datasheet, look for any recommended mounting orientation, some of those models I have seen indicate "Horizontal" only.

The "Horizontal" refers to the cylindrical coil barrel so the big studs will point to the side and that is how I have mine mounted.

[Turnofftheradio]

That's interesting... Mine is mounted vertical. My new one has no data sheet, other than a booklet with no drawings in Chinese, but full color lol.
It would be simple to change the orientation though. I purposely put it vertical thinking that it was happier that way. Maybe a big mistake.