Little more Help with my 06 DS 48 volt

[Tigg-N-Taz]

The end of the season last year my cart was not running right, almost like the pack was dead but then would take off. Driving around the camp ground it died and wouldn't move. I found the blue wire on the solenoid was off I put it back on and the solenoid made a loud noise. (my dumb *** forgot tow mode)

Nothing since then, no click on the solenoid nothing. I replace the solenoid and still nothing. I am going to look at it some some more this week and wanted to see if you all had any ideas?

What wires can I test to ensure the MCOR isn't the issue?
How do I test the controller?

I still need to get the tester out and test the solenoid to ensure the new one isn't DOA also. What about the jumpers (resistors)?

Thank you in advanced from your local Dumb ***.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Unplug the two pin connector from the MCOR (under the floor and connected to a linkage from the pedal) and jump out the connector with a paper clip or a small piece of wire. It will be a blue wire and green wire connector. If it runs with the jumper in place, your MCOR has failed.

You should have a 470 ohm resistor on the large posts and a 1 amp diode on the small posts. Varies based on OEM or aftermarket solenoid.

[Tigg-N-Taz]

I was able to get under the card and volt test the solenoid.

Pack - and blue side wire = 48 volts no matter if peddle is hit or not.

Pack + and blue/white wire = 2.8 volts not matter if peddle is pressed or not.

So I have a problem with the negative input. Right? But what does that mean?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Tigg-N-Taz

I was able to get under the card and volt test the solenoid.

Pack - and blue side wire = 48 volts no matter if peddle is hit or not.

Pack + and blue/white wire = 2.8 volts not matter if peddle is pressed or not.

So I have a problem with the negative input. Right? But what does that mean?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

This means that the controller is not attempting to energize the solenoid to make it click. In order for the controller to make the solenoid click, it has to receive certain signals from the rest of the car. It has to have power to the following pins, which you can check with a multimeter...

1. Tan (Pin 10) - 48V+ with Key switch ON
2. Grey (Pin 9) - 48V+ with TOW/RUN Switch in RUN

3. Brown (Pin - 48V+ with F&R switch in REVERSE
OR
Blue (Pin 16) - 48V+ with F&R switch in FORWARD

4. Green (Pin 6) - 48V+ with Key ON, F&R Switch in either position, and accelerator pedal depressed)

If you're getting power at all four of these places, the controller is bad. If you're missing power at any of these places, post info here and we'll point you in the right direction.

[Tigg-N-Taz]

I have no power at #3. Brown and Blue wires had about 2 volts not the 48 like the rest of the wires.


Also I am very grateful for all the help. I know this is learned over time but is there a repair manual that I can get to help learn?

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[Tigg-N-Taz]

Is there a good wire diagram for a 2006 DS? I can not seem to find one that looks and will help me trace back the wires

[Sergio]

This one should be very legible:

[Tigg-N-Taz]

Originally Posted by Sergio

This one should be very legible:

That one looks great. So I need to check my voltage at the F/R switch and see what I have coming out of there. Maybe a bad wire or a bad switch. hoping it is something easy.

Does the voltage on those two wires come from the F/R switch or the controller?

[Fairtax4me]

Power into the F+R switch comes from the Tow/Run switch.
With Tow/Run in Run you should have 48v at center pin of the F+R. The F+R then sends 48V to controller on Blue if placed in F, or Brown if placed in R.

[Tigg-N-Taz]

I tested the wires out of the F/R switch and was getting 48 volts or 0 as I was switching between F and R. I am guessing the switch is ok then.

Is there something between the F/R and controller that I am missing or should I check to see if the wire needs to be replaced?