trouble shooting ezgo elect. '93' marathon

[Strat]

Hello All,

I was given an EZGO '93' Marathon. It's been sitting for 10 years, and I don't know If it was working when it was parked. I washed it completely, but in reading some of the posts, I shouldn't have got the controller wet.

I put new batteries in, and now cleaning all connections. I checked the voltage of connected batteries which read 37.3 volts. I know i will need to charge, and have 2 chargers that came with the cart. Is there a guide to check the chargers?

Is there a written trouble shooting guide, that will help me to go through the proper steps of checking for problems. I don't want to smoke anything, or change parts till it works.

Please advise!

[Strat]

Hello,
This is a test

[shadowman]

yes there is a service manual with troubleshooting guide as well as all elec. diagrams........if your gonna do your own repairs the manual is a must have.........its the best 60 dollars you,ll spend i guarentee it............................

[rusty]

Welcome to the forum Strat.......................

You are ok if you didn't get the controller wet inside.

Also, if you did get the inside of it wet, always let it dry in the sun for several days before shooting the juice to it.

[edna]

Hello. I have a 1992 EZGO that is stubborn in forward. Reverse works fine but forward takes several, several pumps on the "gas" pedal to get it to go. I pulled the F/R selector switch, cleaned all contacts, checked continuity on the micro switch and everything checks out fine. Any suggestions?

[rusty]

Welcome to the forum edna...................

Someone should be with you shortly.

[Strat]

Hello Rusty,

I've seen you all over this forum.

And this must be a dumb question. But I need to keep you in context. I haven't tried to take the controller off yet. I haven't looked at the controller In depth to see if the cover can be removed. I charged the batteries last night for about 5 hrs. the charger was showing to be putting a charge in the batteries(new), but this morning i tested and showed 39.6 vdc.(Forum says 42.5+/-) I turned the key on and switched to rev. The horn is much louder than before the charge.
1) How long to charge the batteries? (Fluid levels cottect per forum)
2) Does the controller have a removeable cover?
3) Do I jump across the Solniod now?

I know i will need to get a service manual. In talking to the previous owner, a battery went bad was the reason it was parked.

[pggroves]

Originally Posted by Strat

I charged the batteries last night for about 5 hrs. the charger was showing to be putting a charge in the batteries(new), but this morning i tested and showed 39.6 vdc.(Forum says 42.5+/-)

Assuming a 36v pack, after charging cycle 39.6v is fine.

At very end of charging cycle before charger shuts off you should see voltage readings around 45v-46v. This is actually just the surface charge and will dissipate after charger shuts off.
Additionally, new batteries will require several charging cycles to reach their full potential. Usually around 15-20 cycles.

Originally Posted by Strat

1) How long to charge the batteries? (Fluid levels cottect per forum)

Don't know your exact charger model but with that year the charger should shut off by itself. If it is a timer model, just turn to start. New batteries can take up to 10-12 hours to complete and ammeter should be >5A at finish.

Originally Posted by Strat

2) Does the controller have a removeable cover?

IMO, leave the controller intact. It's probably the stock Curtis but there aren't any serviceable parts anyway. (except if your Roady ) If it's bad, replace it.

Originally Posted by Strat

3) Do I jump across the Solniod now?

Don't hurt yourself.
I don't see why not. Just use caution and proper safety.

Good luck.

[rusty]

I couldn't have said it any better.................

Thanks for the vote of confidence!!!!

[Strat]

Originally Posted by pggroves

Assuming a 36v pack, after charging cycle 39.6v is fine.

At very end of charging cycle before charger shuts off you should see voltage readings around 45v-46v. This is actually just the surface charge and will dissipate after charger shuts off.
Additionally, new batteries will require several charging cycles to reach their full potential. Usually around 15-20 cycles.



Don't know your exact charger model but with that year the charger should shut off by itself. If it is a timer model, just turn to start. New batteries can take up to 10-12 hours to complete and ammeter should be >5A at finish.



IMO, leave the controller intact. It's probably the stock Curtis but there aren't any serviceable parts anyway. (except if your Roady ) If it's bad, replace it.



Don't hurt yourself.
I don't see why not. Just use caution and proper safety.

Good luck.

Hello Pggroves,

Thanks for the reply. The charger is a timer model (didn't look up mod#). It looks to be charging properly. And at the end of charging time, I have readings in your sugested range. It is a 36v pack.

I've jumped the solniod and nothing happened. If I understand the purpose of the solniod, (It is a heavy duty switch) the controller might be bad and needs to be replaced.

What is confusing, it is sugested that if the solniod does not "click", the controller is good, the motor/wheels will spin id the solniod is jumped. What test is done to check the controller?

I want to order the trouble shooting guide, but might be able to order a part to get closer to solving this puzzle. Please advise you thoughts.