92 - 3PG Drive Clutch Removal Saga

[Workstead]

After getting the engine out of the cart the saga began.

The drive clutch bolt was on really tight. Impact wrench didn't work, at first. I used a Human Powered High Torque Impact Driver Wrench. I pounded on the hammer for a while but I didn't want to damage the crank.

So I adjusted the compressor to 125 pounds ( I usually use about 90 pounds) and that didn't help. So I reversed the air powered impact wrench and tightened the bolt for a few seconds. Then when I reversed the wrench the bolt started to loosen and I got it out. Step one complete!

The next step is to use the clutch removal tool but it wouldn't fit into the 7/16" hole that the bolt came out of. After messing with the opening for a while I realized that it was a sort of washer and I was able to wrestle it off of the clutch. It was rusted to the clutch opening. Success, I thought

The rust didn't stop there. The 3/4 X 20 threads on the clutch body were pretty badly rusted. I used PB Blaster on them and used a rifle barrel brush to try to get the threads clean. I got some rust off of the threads but they are still are too rusty to screw the 3/4 X 16 bolt to screw in.

I don't have a 3/4 X 16 tap, which I think I need. I'm soaking the threads now in PB Blaster and will try to locate a tap.

Until then, do you have any advice?

Clem

[DOOmsman]

3/4 copper tubing fitting brush, cut the handle off and chuck it in a drill. Spin it in only the direction of the twist

[Workstead]

Originally Posted by DOOmsman

3/4 copper tubing fitting brush, cut the handle off and chuck it in a drill. Spin it in only the direction of the twist

Thanks DOO...

I have one and will do that.

I did borrow a tap from a friend and it is a bear to tap the threads. I'll do the brush thing and it might help.

Thanks,

Clem

[Workstead]

The Saga continues.

I used the plumbing brush with almost negligible results. So, I took an 11/16th's drill and cleaned out the excess rust down to the top of the threads. That helped about as much as the brush. The rust has taken over the threads real well. It's almost like a solid shaft with a hole drilled into it and with no threads previously cut into it.

Now I'm back to holding the clutch by hand and jamming the the tap handle, tightening it, and cutting a tiny bit of thread into the rusted shaft. Smash the tap handle back and start again to cut a little more thread.

I've spent over an hour and have less than an inch of threads open. I would like to have at least 2 inches of good thread to use with my shop made clutch removal tool.

Now I think I will try to secure the starter/generator pulley so I don't have to hold the clutch with one hand and cleaning the threads using the tap with the other hand. Maybe if I can use two hands I can clean the threads more quickly. I just don't want to damage the pulley.

Clem

[DOOmsman]

Stuff a hunk of soft rope down the plug hole to stop the rotation in one direction.
proper tap use is turn in 1/4 turn reverse do it again. It is slow.

[Workstead]

Originally Posted by DOOmsman

Stuff a hunk of soft rope down the plug hole to stop the rotation in one direction.
proper tap use is turn in 1/4 turn reverse do it again. It is slow.

Great idea DOOmsman.

I'm probably going to change the piston with a top end rebuild but in case I don't need to, the soft rope will protect the piston.

I wish I could get 1/4 turn :-)

I can get about 1/12 of a turn. But that is trying to hold the clutch with one hand and yanking the tap handle with the other.

Thanks for more good information.

Clem

[DOOmsman]

You have any oil on the tap?

[Workstead]

Originally Posted by DOOmsman

You have any oil on the tap?

I'm using PB Blaster as a lube.

Do you know how deep the factory threads go in the clutch housing? I'm in 1 3/32". I want enough threads so the clutch removal tool will have enough to hold when I crank on it to remove the clutch.

Clem

[DOOmsman]

Work dude I have never worked on one I am helping with tool stuff maybe a (cart) guy will jump in here, Sled clutches always had 8 - 10 turns on the puller. After good thread engagement.

[Workstead]

Update:

I finally got the clutch off. The threads in the clutch were really rusted but perseverance paid off. I tapped into the shaft 1-3/16" and installed my shop made removal tool. Most of what I read about the tool said that a 5/8" rod 5" long would go into the clutch. I found that it was about 1/2" too long. I cut it to 4-1/2", inserted into the clutch and threaded in the 3/4" X 16 bolt. Most of what I read says to use a 2" long 3/4" bolt. I had one that was about 10" long and after a few seconds with my air wrench the clutch popped right off.

My next challenge will be to get the other side off so I can change the crank seals. Then rebuild the top end, that it probably needs but I won't know until I get the engine apart.

Clem