Controller advice for golfster

[69makinitmine]

I have an Cushman Golfster and the forward/reverse contacts fell out of lever assembly. I need some advice on how much of a battery/distance improvement would there be going from the 3 resistor original speed control to a new PWM digital type. Would it improve batt life and be worth the cost? It seemed that the batteries didn't last very long, just used for feeding livestock 100 yds from house. It has the original GE motor and identiplate says 58 amp draw. Another idea I had was at minimum converting fwd/reverse to 4 solenoid reversing with simple flip of a switch, instead of the lever and contacts (just like a winch motor). Any help, experience or advice? Any cheap used controllers pulled for upgrades out there?
Thanks all!

[scottyb]

Weak or bad batteries will have to be addressed sooner or later regardless of the speed control system you use..... a conversion can not be done well cheaply... sounds like your money might best be spent on batteries....

[scottyb]

Early carts ( pre 89-90ish) use a series of graduated sizes of speed resistor coils to regulate speed. Each coil in the group offered less resistance than the previous one. When you stepped on the gas 100% of the available battery power (amperage) was drawn and speed was regulated by how much of this amperage was burned off (wasted) by the resistor coils. So even if you push the peddle a little it drains the batteries same as wide open throttle. The gas peddle operated a wiper which swept a contact across stationary lugs which connected to the resistors. The solenoid merely switched power on /off to the speed wiper.
This is why it does you no good to just upgrade the solenoid....

Modern carts use solid state speed control. These controllers only draw as many amps as you ask for with the peddle.... If you push the peddle down 10% they deliver 10% of their capacity. I say their capacity because a controller is like a gate valve (or a hose bib) to the amperage stored in the batteries... We have different size controllers(valves) available so 10% of a 400 amp is less than 10% of a 650 amp controller. Amperage = Torque.
The solid state controller does not waste any amps and this increases the run time.Hope this helps?

[69makinitmine]

Thanks scottyb! The batteries are brand new and checked for full charge with a hydrometer to make sure the charger was truly giving them a full charge. The 4 solenoid idea was just so I wouldn't have to constanly reach down and shift (lazy!) I like your discription of the resistor type. Hadn't thought of it that way. Now since the GE motor plate says it draws 53amps, does the size of the PWM controller make a difference in torque (amp draw)? What good would a 400 or 600amp controller do if the motor only draws 53 amps at 100%? Could I just use a used OEM stock controller like from an ez-go and be ok? (till I get the bug and upgrade the motor)

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by 69makinitmine

Thanks scottyb! The batteries are brand new and checked for full charge with a hydrometer to make sure the charger was truly giving them a full charge. The 4 solenoid idea was just so I wouldn't have to constanly reach down and shift (lazy!) I like your discription of the resistor type. Hadn't thought of it that way. Now since the GE motor plate says it draws 53amps, does the size of the PWM controller make a difference in torque (amp draw)? What good would a 400 or 600amp controller do if the motor only draws 53 amps at 100%? Could I just use a used OEM stock controller like from an ez-go and be ok? (till I get the bug and upgrade the motor)

Maybe she draws 53 amps cruising ....... downhill Seriously these motors can draw 400amps at start up ...... OEM ezgo or CC controller (275a) will work so long as you match the new throttle assembly to it.

[69makinitmine]

10-4 on the downhill with a tailwind! HA! It wasn't a speed demon at %100 but it got me there... Thankyou so much for the words of wisdom!