Bob Boyce!!! 48v solenoid!!!

[I_HAV2_POOP]

Bob Boyce, I can figure out what 48v solenoid I need, what is the Trombetta part number for the 48v one for my controller you molded up for me.

The solenoid that is on my cart right now is a Trombetta 684-3641-012-26.

What part number do I need to order???

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by I_HAV2_POOP

Bob Boyce, I can figure out what 48v solenoid I need, what is the Trombetta part number for the 48v one for my controller you molded up for me.

The solenoid that is on my cart right now is a Trombetta 684-3641-012-26.

What part number do I need to order???

In stock form, the RXV uses a 36v solenoid. However, that can be changed and Bob may have changed that to 48v for you. Not sure what part number to tell you, but be sure you get one rated for continuous duty.

[cgtech]

Almost all rxv used 36v solenoids. But, in the last couple yesrs they have switched exclusively to 48v solenoids. Unfortunately, the correct trombetta solenoids that are 36v & 48v look the same visually (but have different part numbers). Any curtis rxv can be programmed to use 36v or 48v solenoids.

[BobBoyce]

His controller is set to use a 36V solenoid, and has already been mailed back out to him. While I had his controller on the bench, I found a recent hours repeated history of the solenoid failing to close. I did not want his controller to get corrupted by a failing solenoid, so I advised him to change it. I thought he said it was in a 2016 RXV, so I advised him to get a 48V solenoid. I just checked the controller file and it is indeed set for a 36V solenoid... It looks like maybe the original 1206AC-5211 controller was replaced with an earlier 1206AC-5201 controller at some point, as it has a very early 2015 date code. That would explain the solenoid failed to close error list! Be sure to get a 36V solenoid to put in that RXV! The solenoid in the cart is probably fine, but being a 2016 it is the wrong voltage for the controller.

[I_HAV2_POOP]

Thanks Bob, I will do that! You are the man!

[QCCarts]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

His controller is set to use a 36V solenoid, and has already been mailed back out to him. While I had his controller on the bench, I found a recent hours repeated history of the solenoid failing to close. I did not want his controller to get corrupted by a failing solenoid, so I advised him to change it. I thought he said it was in a 2016 RXV, so I advised him to get a 48V solenoid. I just checked the controller file and it is indeed set for a 36V solenoid... It looks like maybe the original 1206AC-5211 controller was replaced with an earlier 1206AC-5201 controller at some point, as it has a very early 2015 date code. That would explain the solenoid failed to close error list! Be sure to get a 36V solenoid to put in that RXV! The solenoid in the cart is probably fine, but being a 2016 it is the wrong voltage for the controller.

Bob, I am replacing a bad solenoid for somebody with a 2014 RXV and plan to use the OEM for 48v. In my Curtis handheld, what settings do I need to change and what’s the path to get there?

[gokeboy]

2014 EXGO RXV

Does anyone know if I will have an issue moving up from a 36V to a 48V solenoid? I saw above that the controller may need to be reprogrammed to use a 48V solenoid so please let us know what the steps are. Are there any benefits of the so called “heavy duty” units vs. just upgrading the OEM to 48V? This all started after purchasing a RXV that needed a complete refresh since it was sitting outside at the beach for a few years. Long story short, I took the cart down to the frame to clean up and remove all rust. However, during that process, I discovered that the motor brake was also worn out so added that to my parts order so I could begin the rebuild. After putting the cart back together, I installed upgrades including a 6 inch Jake’s lift kit and 14 inch rims with 22 inch all terrain tires. We also replaced the failed motor brake with an HD version found on eBay since the cart has already been set to freedom mode and because it now has a lift; not to mention our neighborhood has plenty with of hills to climb! Anyways, on it’s maiden voyage, we immediately started experiencing auto brake issues whenever manually tapping on the brake pedal. Instead of just slowing the cart down, it forced us to come to a full and complete stop before moving again. Obviously, not the safest way to spend the afternoon with our kiddos. And now, after that initial run, the cart won’t move at all so based on my research I investigated the solenoid. After testing (hopefully I did it right), I believe the solenoid has gone completely bad so we are looking at replacement options. Could the an additional load of bigger tires and the freedom mode speed upgrade cause the original OEM solenoid to fail which lead to auto brake issues?

The solenoid that is on my cart right now is a Trombetta 684-3641-012-26. Date code of 4-26-2013.

Obviously, since the cart sat outside at the beach, it had it’s fair share of corrosion from salt and water so it’s a safe bet to assume the solenoid needs replacing after 8 years of use. I just want to ensure if we put a OEM replacement, or upgrade to a 48V or 36V heavy duty, that it’ll resolves both problems. I read in another blog that RXVs had issues with solenoids and braking when they first hit the market. Do we think these symptoms could all be solved by replacing a bad solenoid? Does anyone think any other modifications are needed to prevent the replacement from failing? I believe there is an argument that supports the claim that the solenoid is causing both issues but wanted to ping the experts to see what part they’d recommend:

-OEM 36V Solenoid
-OEM 48V Solenoid
-HD 36V Solenoid
-HD 48V Solenoid

Anyone know why EZGO used a 36V solenoid on a 48V cart in the first place? Any other troubleshooting recommendations? Here are other possibilities I’ve researched that could be causing issues:

-Faulty Brake Switch
-Issue with Accelerator Switch
-Motor Brake
-Bad Wiring

Batteries are 2019 Trojan T1275 and are fully holding charge with clean terminals so I don’t think it’s related to them. Any help/guidance would be greatly appreciated!

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by gokeboy

2014 EXGO RXV

Does anyone know if I will have an issue moving up from a 36V to a 48V solenoid? I saw above that the controller may need to be reprogrammed to use a 48V solenoid so please let us know what the steps are. Are there any benefits of the so called “heavy duty” units vs. just upgrading the OEM to 48V? This all started after purchasing a RXV that needed a complete refresh since it was sitting outside at the beach for a few years. Long story short, I took the cart down to the frame to clean up and remove all rust. However, during that process, I discovered that the motor brake was also worn out so added that to my parts order so I could begin the rebuild. After putting the cart back together, I installed upgrades including a 6 inch Jake’s lift kit and 14 inch rims with 22 inch all terrain tires. We also replaced the failed motor brake with an HD version found on eBay since the cart has already been set to freedom mode and because it now has a lift with plenty with plenty of hills to climb in our neighborhood. However, on it’s maiden voyage, we immediately started experiencing auto brake issues whenever manually tapping on the brake pedal. Instead of just slowing down, the cart would force us to come to a full and complete stop before moving again. Obviously, not the safest way to spend time with our kiddos. And now, after that initial run the cart won’t move at all so my researchlead me to investigate the solenoid. After testing (hopefully I did it right), I believe the solenoid has gone completely bad so we are looking at replacement options. Could the an additional load of bigger tires and the freedom mode speed upgrade cause the original OEM solenoid to fail which lead to auto brake issues?

The solenoid that is on my cart right now is a Trombetta 684-3641-012-26. Date code of 4-26-2013.

Obviously, since the cart sat outside at the beach, it had it’s fair share of corrosion from salt and water so it’s a safe bet to assume the solenoid needs replacing. I just want to ensure if we put a OEM replacement, or upgrade to a 48V or 36V heavy duty, that it’ll resolves both problems. I read in another blog that RXVs had issues with solenoids and braking when they first hit the market. Do we think these symptoms could all be solved by replacing a bad solenoid? Do you think any other modifications are needed to prevent the replacement from failing? I believe there is an argument that supports the claim that the solenoid is causing both issues but wanted to ping the experts to see what part they’d recommend:

-OEM 36V Solenoid
-OEM 48V Solenoid
-HD 36V Solenoid
-HD 48V Solenoid

Anyone know why EZGO used a 36V solenoid on a 48V cart in the first place? Any other troubleshooting recommendations? Here are other possibilities I’ve researched that could be causing issues:

-Faulty Brake Switch
-Issue with Accelerator Switch
-Motor Brake
-Bad Wiring

Batteries are 2019 Trojan T1275 and are fully holding charge with clean terminals so I don’t think it’s related to them. Any help/guidance would be greatly appreciated!

First thing, you oversized the wheels/tires for a stock controller! The issues you are having is related to that tire oversize. You may have toasted the soneloid, but you have more issues than that. Upgrading to a 48V solenoid is not the answer. The answer is to address the effects of the changes you have made that caused the issues you are having.

The stock maps in the stock controller are only able to compensate for up to a 20.5" tire! There is nothing that you can do to make it right, other than to change out that stock 235A controller for the 350A Upgrade controller, or reduce tire size. The motor maps of a stock controller can be custom tuned, in person, for up to 21" tires. But that is the limit for the stock controller. It will eventully burn out if you keep running it like that. You are barking up the wrong tree trying to replace parts to fix a problem that you created. I know large tires look cool, but the engineering put into the cart was for it to operate on a golf course at slow to moderate speeds. With the stock controller and 20.5" tires, you could even be able to hit over 30 MPH comfortably. No lift kit required. Raising the center of gravity with an excessive lift kit will also make the cart unstable, which is unsafe.

Activating the Freedom Mode causes the controller to reduce to max out at 60% of its rated current, by design. This is to prevent people from doing what you did, go oversize on tires and then using Freedom Mode to give you an overspeed advantage. By cutting back on current, the lost power is not enough to prevent full speed with stock tires, but is a killer to carts with oversized tires. That cannot just be turned off. It requires a reset of the controller back to factory, then a performance reprogramming that does not activate that current reduction code built into the controller that gets activated by the Passkey.

That HD motor brake will burn out the motor brake output of your controller. It draws too much current for the FET in the controller to handle. Forget changing it when it goes, it is no longer replaceable when they started sealing the cases with a hard epoxy. Replacement cases are unavailable, unless you are an authorized Curtis remanufacturer like FSIP.

Bob

[gokeboy]

I know, the cart still has the original Curtis AC Motor Controller:
-Port Number: 1206AC-5201
-Date Code: 13226
-Current: 235A

Definitely considering an upgrade to a Navitas controller on my golf cart journey, but do you think the larger tires is contributing to the auto brake feature where it’s forcing the cart to come to a full and complete stop or could that simply be the solenoid running on it’s last leg?

In it’s current form, besides the potential of burning out the existing controller, do larger wheels raise any other concerns? For example, hurting the motor or leading to future burnt up solenoids in the future? What I am thinking about doing is keeping the controller in place (for now) and simply swapping out the solenoid to either OEM 36V or HD 36V, or possibly moving up to a 48V but need guidance on how to reprogram the Curtis controller with a 48V solenoid.

Let me know your thoughts, thanks Bob!

[kgsc]

Main pull in voltage 100% holding 80%