2012 Ezgo Freedom RXV 48v Charger

[davlan88]

Is there a way to test the cart side charging port?

[cgtech]

The main Positive and Negative just passes straight through the charge port, so a DPI should turn on, even with a charge port that won't work for the stock charger. The part that disqualifies stock charger from operating is the third wire "temp sensor/data circuit" that the stock charger requires to start a cycle. Stick your charge port terminals with your meter (the 2 horizontal ones of the triangle), see what the voltage reading is.

[davlan88]

I found the issue, but not after tearing and breaking everything in my way. After reading someone else's thread, there was supposed to be a fuse in the charge receptacle. I cut the top of the fuse away and in the process dropped it and it arc'ed off something. Then found the fuse was no longer good. Dont know if it was the arc or blown before. Ordered a new receptacle and in the process of removing the old one to prepare for installation of the new, I found that the installers did not connect the ground wire from the receptacle back to the battery terminal. I tend to over analyze versus starting from the basics, I guess I gave the installers far too much credit than they deserved. So now I have the receptacle removed and get no power at all when the key is rotated to any position. I'm hoping the is normal, but not sure why a charger port would keep it from turning on. Frustration is mounting. Now I'm pissed at myself for not checking the basics and all would have been fine. If the charger receptacle is removed, will this disable the cart from working from the key in all positions? I have power going to everything, all fuses good.

[cgtech]

It will do that, no power to the blue wire = charger plugged in. Charger plugged in = can't drive. You should still get action from the energy meter when key is turned on, but I don't think tow will unlock either.

[davlan88]

I get nothing when the key is turned, zero. No clicks, no buzzes, no meter needle movement, not nothing. Zip, zero.

[davlan88]

cgtech: I saw you posted in another thread about my situation. I dropped my charger receptacle on the post of my reducer and it arc'd. I pulled my receptacle all of the way out as the fuse was blown, not sure if it was the arch or not. Either way, with the receptacle removed, I get no response at the key in any position. No buzz, click, called, or needle movement. I haven't received my replacement receptacle yet, is it normal to get no response at all with the receptacle removed? I have checked all fuses, power to the solenoid, etc. Its almost like a fuse was blown between the key switch and power, nothing works at all now.

[cgtech]

I don't think it's normal. There are some fuses to check on the side of the black plastic controller cover, they are inside the red and yellow covers.

[davlan88]

All fuses around the controller cover are good. It did pop one 7.5 fuse coming out of the reducer, which I replaced. I tested the key switch and it was getting .4 in each position. I'm not very good with electrical stuff, not sure what to check next. I can't find any other issues.

[cgtech]

Figure out which Controller you have, then download the troubleshooting guide for your model type. Search bar above will find it for you.

[davlan88]

Its a Danaher.