DCS to FSIP fx302 conversion solenoid not dropping with pedal up.

[mgray70]

Has anyone ever done this conversion? Cart runs fine. Solenoid stays engaged and controller stays powdered after pedal up. You can cycle the tow run and it will drop until next time the pedal is pressed. I talked to a FSIP tech and he said that control could keep the solenoid engaged for 30 minutes, but he didn't sound that confident. Just wondering if anyone else has any experience with this control. It's a GE controller.

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[mjroman20]

Per the 302 Manual:

The line contactor is normally the only contactor
required for the shunt motor traction circuit. This
contactor is used for both pre-charge of the line
capacitors and for emergency shut down of the motor
circuit, in case of problems that would cause a full
motor torque condition. The line can be energized
and de-energized by the various logic combinations of
the vehicle, i.e. activate on key or start switch closure,
and de-energize on time out of idle vehicle. Again,
these options add to the quiet operation of the
vehicle.

Though it does not mention the actual time required to be 'idle' if I recall correctly the solenoid pulls in at key on does it not? This delay period after pedal up is usually for the purpose of maintaining a position hold or anti-roll off function though most controllers only seem to do this over a period of a minute or less. The 302 however, has the option to not use a speed sensor as with the DCS, since roll off functions use this they likely leave the solenoid closed longer to ensure the vehicle is defiantly not moving.

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by mjroman20

Per the 302 Manual:


Though it does not mention the actual time required to be 'idle' if I recall correctly the solenoid pulls in at key on does it not? This delay period after pedal up is usually for the purpose of maintaining a position hold or anti-roll off function though most controllers only seem to do this over a period of a minute or less. The 302 however, has the option to not use a speed sensor as with the DCS, since roll off functions use this they likely leave the solenoid closed longer to ensure the vehicle is defiantly not moving.

I haven't tried leaving it in to see if will eventually drop out. I will try that this afternoon. It does not engage with the key switch, only the pedal. The installation instructions had me to remove all wires from the small positive post of the solenoid (3) wires which remain connected to each other. A new wire provided by them runs from the tow run switch to the positive post of the solenoid providing a constant positive. I'm not sure the purpose of that, because if those three wires could stay on the positive post, at least it would drop out with the key switch. Where can I find a fx302 manual?

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[mjroman20]

Looking at the wiring diagram supplied in the kit; that configuration would supply the positive of the solenoid coil from the tow/run and the low side would be pulled through the controller. I would say that's correct.

It looks like the wires you mention are set onto an insulated spacer. Which forms the node on the diagram attached to key, pin 6 and the pedal switch. This is likely done because of how the key switch functions with the FX vs the 1206SX.

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by mjroman20

Looking at the wiring diagram supplied in the kit; that configuration would supply the positive of the solenoid coil from the tow/run and the low side would be pulled through the controller. I would say that's correct.

It looks like the wires you mention are set onto an insulated spacer. Which forms the node on the diagram attached to key, pin 6 and the pedal switch. This is likely done because of how the key switch functions with the FX vs the 1206SX.

It may be operating they way it is designed to, but it stays energized at least 15 minutes, and the coils gets fairly warm. I'm going to leave on for a while and see if it will eventually drop.

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[mgray70]

It's been well over an hour, the solenoid is still engaged, and is almost to hot to touch just from the coil. Controller has a hum. It just don't sound right that this thing is suppose to stay engaged all the time. Any ideas?

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[mgray70]

Originally Posted by mjroman20

Looking at the wiring diagram supplied in the kit; that configuration would supply the positive of the solenoid coil from the tow/run and the low side would be pulled through the controller. I would say that's correct.

It looks like the wires you mention are set onto an insulated spacer. Which forms the node on the diagram attached to key, pin 6 and the pedal switch. This is likely done because of how the key switch functions with the FX vs the 1206SX.

I removed the wire from the tow run switch to the positive solenoid post and put the three wires back like it originally was with the sx control and like I hoped the solenoid works with the key switch now and the cart runs fine. Not exactly sure what that purpose was other that roll away protection, but I feel better about the key switch dropping the solenoid rather than having to turn of the tow run every time. We're flat around here. Roll away ain't much of a problem.

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[mjroman20]

The only other alternative I could think of would be to have it reprogrammed as if it were for a PDS and use the DCS harness but add a motor with a speed sensor.

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by mjroman20

The only other alternative I could think of would be to have it reprogrammed as if it were for a PDS and use the DCS harness but add a motor with a speed sensor.

I'm gonna leave it wired like the SX was. That way the solenoid gets the positive from the key switch. At least the key switch, or neural will disengage the solenoid. That set up don't make sense to me. If the solenoid is going to be engaged all the time, then why have one?

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[mjroman20]

It will still open in the event of a fault.