Installing light bar?

[Alolsen2012]

This is my first post so first off I'd like to say hi!, anyways I'm looking to install a light bar on my 48 v club car . I have little experience wiring golf carts as most my knowledge is in audio. So I know that i am supposed to wire into the 12 volt converter but I noticed on mine it says the out put is 13v? (I'll put picture) is this normal? Also I'm not sure how to wire into the converter? I'm assuming you just run a positive wire in to it but I'm not sure where? And last I'm not sure The best way To wire in a switch so really just looking for advice. Thanks in advance!!!

[theboss20]

Because there isn't a frame ground like a car...the voltage reducer has a DC output power wire and a ground...so you find the output side of the voltage reducer and those wires will power the led light bar. The switch can be on the pos. wire or the neg. wire.

[Alolsen2012]

Originally Posted by theboss20

Because there isn't a frame ground like a car...the voltage reducer has a DC output power wire and a ground...so you find the output side of the voltage reducer and those wires will power the led light bar. The switch can be on the pos. wire or the neg. wire.

Thanks for the response!!! Do you know if the 13 v output is normal??? Anything to worry about ?

[Alolsen2012]

I'm not sure how good or bad this would work but to save time and lower chance of me doing something wrong what if I put a Y butt connector on the head light wires and had one part going to the light bar and the other going to the headlights? If not would I be better off putting a y connector on the 12 volt converter? And how many things can I Hook up to the small wires coming out of the converter ? Opinions appreciated!

[jroeiii]

Originally Posted by Alolsen2012

I'm not sure how good or bad this would work but to save time and lower chance of me doing something wrong what if I put a Y butt connector on the head light wires and had one part going to the light bar and the other going to the headlights? If not would I be better off putting a y connector on the 12 volt converter? And how many things can I Hook up to the small wires coming out of the converter ? Opinions appreciated!

I assume you mean off the back of the headlight switch? i/e run the 12v power to the switch and control both with the same switch to turn on / off? I did that temporarily but the lack of control led me to use two switches instead. The LED light is BRIGHT and the cart is hardly stealth with it on.

In the long run, I'd recommend a reasonable fused setup. This can be especially helpful when / if you have a failure down the road. My example is a bit of overkill but I installed 48v circuit breaker --> 48v Fuse Panel --> Reducer --> 12 v circuit breaker --> 12v Fuse Panel (10 circuits...all full). Will run you about $100 more in the long run, and allow room for growth down the road to multiple reducers etc.

You can easily dial it back to a 48v breaker --> Reducer -- >12v Fuse Panel as well. If your needs are limited to LED lights / headlights only.

[Alolsen2012]

Originally Posted by jroeiii

I assume you mean off the back of the headlight switch? i/e run the 12v power to the switch and control both with the same switch to turn on / off? I did that temporarily but the lack of control led me to use two switches instead. The LED light is BRIGHT and the cart is hardly stealth with it on.

In the long run, I'd recommend a reasonable fused setup. This can be especially helpful when / if you have a failure down the road. My example is a bit of overkill but I installed 48v circuit breaker --> 48v Fuse Panel --> Reducer --> 12 v circuit breaker --> 12v Fuse Panel (10 circuits...all full). Will run you about $100 more in the long run, and allow room for growth down the road to multiple reducers etc.

You can easily dial it back to a 48v breaker --> Reducer -- >12v Fuse Panel as well. If your needs are limited to LED lights / headlights only.

First off thanks for response. The fused setup you were talking about seems like a little much for me. Let me try to make it more clear what I'm gonna try to do . So I was thinking a Y butt connection to the + and. - wires coming out of the converter. I guess my question is can the converter handle adding another accessory? I don't wanna try to hook up to many things. Also , what gauge wire should I run and what amp fuse ?? Thanks much , I am obviously new to this and don't want to screw up my golf cart that's all!!

[jroeiii]

Originally Posted by Alolsen2012

First off thanks for response. The fused setup you were talking about seems like a little much for me. Let me try to make it more clear what I'm gonna try to do . So I was thinking a Y butt connection to the + and. - wires coming out of the converter. I guess my question is can the converter handle adding another accessory? I don't wanna try to hook up to many things. Also , what gauge wire should I run and what amp fuse ?? Thanks much , I am obviously new to this and don't want to screw up my golf cart that's all!!

Absolutely - the voltage reducer will run multiple accessories check the specs on the box/label.

I have mine a bit "oversubscribed" and I can run EVERYTHING on my cart on a single reducer rated to 300w / 30 AMP.

I used 14ga marine wire and it is more than enough to handle 30 AMPS, the full rating of most reducers.

Simplest option for multiple +/- outputs (if you can wait for shipping)
http://m.ebay.com/itm/SeaChoice-6-Ga...257Ciid%253A22

You could solder/heatshrink a Y-connection off the output side - and add an inline fuses on the + (cheap at advance auto order online and use a coupon code)....they also have small fuse panels that will provide multiple + outputs and available locally
http://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/buss...erm=fuse+panel

I used the following calculator to determine fuse to use for each accessory: DC watts@12V

http://rapidtables.com/calc/electric...Calculator.htm

[Alolsen2012]

Quick question: is the plastic roof strong enough to support a light bar or will I crack roof?

[Seaquell]

Hi
I just put a 36 inch led light bar on my cart it draws about 25 amps , I used a. 30 amp inline circuit breaker and it never trips. The roof may hold it but mine seems to shake a lot more than normal headlights so make sure that it's rigid mounted. The connections can get hot so make sure you solder or have quality connections.
You can get a 30 amp rating toggle switch but I used a 40 amp relay so I can use my matching carlane style dashboard switches.

[Alolsen2012]

So I got the bar in and as far as I can tell all is good ... however the switch I got is a POS and needs to be replaced, any recommendations? I was hoping for a switch where it is just positive in and positive out to be as simple as possible for me ? Thoughts?