Click but no go?

TahoeDawgZ71 · 12-12-2016, 08:14 PM

Hit the side of the solenoid with a hammer when it's failing to see if it makes a difference. If it does, it'll guarantee your problem is in the solenoid.

Bubba78 · 12-12-2016, 09:33 PM

Alright sounds good. I'll keep a hammer on hand. :)

yamahaguy97 · 12-12-2016, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

Hit the side of the solenoid with a hammer when it's failing to see if it makes a difference. If it does, it'll guarantee your problem is in the solenoid.

lol I like your diagnostic suggestion

tag50 · 12-13-2016, 01:21 AM

Sounds like David had an old Ford somewhere in his history.

.

TahoeDawgZ71 · 12-13-2016, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tag50

Sounds like David had an old Ford somewhere in his history.

.

No Fords in my past, present, or future. But I have lots of friends with Fords

Bubba78 · 12-14-2016, 12:41 AM

Anyone else? I was hoping for a touch more then bring a hammer :) No offence at all!

TahoeDawgZ71 · 12-14-2016, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bubba78

Anyone else? I was hoping for a touch more then bring a hammer :) No offence at all!

Sure, we can dig as deep as you want to go. Get a multimeter and set it to 200VDC. With alligator clips on the ends of both leads, clip the positive lead to the small post of the solenoid with the red and white/black wire, and the negative lead of the multimeter to the small post with the yellow wire. Monitor the DC voltage that is supplied to the solenoid coil while you are operating the vehicle. If the meter shows that the voltage drops off when the car stops, you may have an issue in your throttle unit (Pot-Box, V-Glide, or MCOR). If the voltage stays steady on the screen while the car fails, it indicates that the vehicle is still providing current to keep the solenoid closed (engaged), but the solenoid may not be able to maintain an internal connection due to corrosion or dirty internal contacts. If this happens, just hit it with a hammer and see if it'll run. If the vehicle begins to run when you hit the solenoid with a hammer, replace the solenoid.

Bubba78 · 12-15-2016, 10:48 PM

There we go! Perfect, thanks guys!

12-12-2016, 08:14 PM	#11
TahoeDawgZ71 revolutiongolfcars.com Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Golf Car Capital of The World... Augusta, Georgia Posts: 10,224	Re: Click but no go? Hit the side of the solenoid with a hammer when it's failing to see if it makes a difference. If it does, it'll guarantee your problem is in the solenoid.

12-12-2016, 09:33 PM	#12
Bubba78 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2015 Posts: 65	Re: Click but no go? Alright sounds good. I'll keep a hammer on hand. :)
Bubba78 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2015 Posts: 65

12-13-2016, 01:21 AM	#14
tag50 Gone Wild Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Oregon City, Or Posts: 1,977	Re: Click but no go? Sounds like David had an old Ford somewhere in his history. .

12-14-2016, 12:41 AM	#16
Bubba78 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2015 Posts: 65	Re: Click but no go? Anyone else? I was hoping for a touch more then bring a hammer :) No offence at all!
Bubba78 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2015 Posts: 65

12-15-2016, 10:48 PM	#18
Bubba78 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2015 Posts: 65	Re: Click but no go? There we go! Perfect, thanks guys!
Bubba78 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Aug 2015 Posts: 65

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