Main welded code still

[PRGcarts]

2012 Precedent, Getting Main Welded Code after replacing MCOR twice, speed sensor twice, and controller twice. Also changed resistor and solenoid. Cart is in limp mode. Pulled motor and doesn't smell burnt, any suggestions on what to try next? Read about false code from REGEN system, turned that off and still limping.
Also have a 2013 Precedent that shows a Main Driver On, also in limp mode. Controller?

[Kashmir]

Revert to IQ?
I'm not real fond of the Excel carts after reading about all the issues on here with them.

[Sergio]

Check Your solenoid wiring and make sure the "logic power" wire is connected to the battery side big post and not the controller side of the solenoid.

[mjroman20]

If you have a o-scope the following may help...it may be detectable with a DMM but much harder to do.

Curtis controllers declare a main welded by checking the voltage on the cap bank vs the B+Aux input. The controller will send a quick pulse to the armature of the motor with the solenoid open, it wants to see the cap bank drop below B+Aux then return to approx match after closing the solenoid. If there is no dip then it faults.

As Sergio mentioned this could be falsely declared by incorrect wiring of the solenoid or B+ source to the tow/run. Additionally incorrect wiring of the motor could also trigger this fault.

[PRGcarts]

The cart doesn't go into limp mode every time. After driving for a few minutes when I stop and the solenoid cycles then it goes into limp mode. I can stop and switch the key off a few times and it will run full speed until I stop again. You mentioned wiring on the solenoid could cause this, Only thing I see odd is the solenoid I got from RedHawk has a red sticker with a plus sign on the controller side which I would think would be the battery side. Is this the battery side? Look identical to the OEM solenoid except for the red plus sign on the controller side. How would the R/T switch cause a feedback? How can this be checked?
Thanks again for everyone's help here.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Sergio and mjroman should help you through this. You've got the best help in the country right here on this site.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Kashmir

Revert to IQ?
I'm not real fond of the Excel carts after reading about all the issues on here with them.

??? What issues do they have that IQ cars don't? lol. Am I missing something?

[Kashmir]

Well, by "issues" I guess I mean they are harder (read, more costly) to make go faster.
I'm pretty sure that a controller upgrade is about the cheapest way to "go fast" with an Excel?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Kashmir

Well, by "issues" I guess I mean they are harder (read, more costly) to make go faster.
I'm pretty sure that a controller upgrade is about the cheapest way to "go fast" with an Excel?

Yeah if you want over 19mph. A speed code will get you that. Higher speeds require a controller upgrade or a PQ Bandit PH motor. In a golf course application, Excel is superior.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by PRGcarts

Only thing I see odd is the solenoid I got from RedHawk has a red sticker with a plus sign on the controller side which I would think would be the battery side. Is this the battery side?

If there is a "+" by one of the large post then that is directional for the polarity and the pack cable (battery side) should be installed on that post.