Main welded code still

[Kashmir]

Golf course?
What's that?

(oops! hope I'm not highjacking here...)

[PRGcarts]

When did CC stop using diodes on the large posts of the solenoids? Could the resistor have a play in Main Welded Code?

[PRGcarts]

That is what I thought on the plus sign but every solenoid I got from RedHawk and Nivell has this on them. No way to switch this without flipping the solenoid over. Was there a time and place where CC had the battery side on the side closest to the controller? I will post a pic of the current solenoid.

[PRGcarts]

Pic of solenoid, shows yellow wire from controller going to the solenoid labeled with red plus sign on sticker. This is what two different suppliers are selling for Precedents. Am I missing something?

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by PRGcarts

Pic of solenoid, shows yellow wire from controller going to the solenoid labeled with red plus sign on sticker. This is what two different suppliers are selling for Precedents. Am I missing something?

(I can't clearly see your pic) If the "+" designation is near the large post the pack voltage should be landed there. I think it was Sergio that told me Albright's solenoids were designed with directional polarity as a "blowout magnet" and are dependent upon correct orientation, so I am not sure how many more are that way. I know the "+" polarity designation on the small post is just to designate a built in diode and is where you would land the positive activation wire. (Where is your "+" designation at - Large or Small post?

[Sergio]

It is really hard to see much in that picture You posted, but to clear up the Solenoid polarity confusion:

This is the OEM style Solenoid, please note the + sign is near the coil tabs.

If You look closely, You can also see the cathode or striped end of the diode already soldered to that tab on the + side.

That simply identifies the positive activation side of the coil.

You should also note the size of the tabs (negative = 3/16", positive=1/4") will not allow you to connect them reversed anyway.






This is an Albright Solenoid with "Magnetic Blowout" protection, the + sign is embossed on the top near the big post.

In these types of the Solenoid the big post with the + needs the higher voltage potential cable which is the one that comes from the pack positive.

This is necessary so the magnetic field blows the arc, created when the solenoid contacts open, away from the contacts.






The comment about the "logic power" which is the pink wire that feeds the Tow/Run switch needs to be on the battery side is because the voltage on the Controller side of the Solenoid has a few less volts due to a voltage drop across the pre-charge resistor when the Solenoid is open.

It looks like You still have the factory pack positive cable which has a "combo" crimp on the solenoid side where the Tow/Run switch power comes from, so you are OK there.

Since You said the cart works fine some of the time, I think there is less probability of the Motor Armature coil having an issue.

If the Solenoid contacts are indeed not releasing, You can measure that on Motor A1.

When the cart is running fine, the Voltage on Motor terminal A1 , which is the same a Controller B+, should be a few volts less than the pack positive Voltage.

When the cart is failing, measure that voltage and if it is the same as pack positive, the Solenoid contacts are still passing current even though the Solenoid coil is not engaged.

You should also verify the pre-charge resistor is about 470Ω.

This diagram should be the same for your cart:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...mcor_small.jpg

[PRGcarts]

Which resistor for this solenoid? I have a 1 and 3 amp for different amp solenoids. Also the solenoid does not have a diode. Are some built in the solenoid? I have noticed the last few carts I have seen did not have diodes and they were original it seemed. Could this be the issue getting feedback across the posts? Sorry if I seem like I am asking a lot of questions but I am new to the cart industry.

[NoleFan4Ever]

He was talking about you pre-charge resistor should be 470 ohm, the 1 & 3 amp diodes you are noting is for the small posts (1 amp is usually on a 200 amp solenoid and a 3 amp diode is usually on a 400 amp solenoid) I believe is picture of the OEM solenoid depicted the diodes are made into them and is why they have the red "+" symbol there.

Look at his picture again of the OEM solenoid and you will see the diode under the small post.

[Sergio]

The resistor goes between the big posts on the solenoid.

The stock 48v Curtis Controller uses a 470Ω x 10w resistor.

The diode goes on the small tabs/post for the Solenoid coil.

The 1 amp diode can only be used on the OEM Solenoid.

The 3 amp diode can be used on the OEM or HD Solenoid.

If the Solenoid has the big + sign near the tabs as shown on my picture, there is already a diode, Do not install another one!

The side of the diode with a "stripe" goes towards the positive activation wire.

Look near the bottom of the tabs in the picture I posted, the diode is already there.

If You install a diode across the big posts, You will get a "main welded" error code every time.