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Old 10-04-2021, 09:53 AM   #31
jhornbr225
Not Yet Wild
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 41
Default Re: Starting my EZGO Marathon Lithium build.

Between Thursday and Friday I got the two strings paralleled up.

Saturday afternoon we rode it over to the neighbor's, where there is about 400' of concrete driveway for some testing. They also have a Yamaha Cart to compare to. It's 48V, and compared to Marty, last year, Marty accelerated better, but eventually the Yamaha was faster. We used a GPS app and found out that the Yamaha goes 11mph.

I did some playing around with the settings in the Alltrax. I had the wife drive, while I sat on the back seat and monitored the laptop.

The tests are a little biased as the trip going east is downhill, then a small flat area, then a very slight incline up to the street.

At 100% speed going east, we saw a max of 30mph. The trip back west max was 26mph. After a dozen or more trips back and forth I decided that 60% was fine, about 18mph, and 20% acceleration. That speed handily beats the Yamaha, and the off the line acceleration is quite brisk. This cart will mostly be used in a bumpy yard, and being a 3 wheeler, we don't need to go too fast.

I had set the top setting of the battery monitor, assuming that I'd have about 150Ah. During all this back and forth, full throttle testing, we used 7Ah.

Sunday I picked up some split loom tubing to clean up the wiring, and some clamps to hold it down. I need to look for a path to run the 12V wires up front for the headlights and the stereo. The path I was using before was not good. There was a small hole in the floor under the throttle pedal that I used. I might have to run the wires up in the front wheel well, and drill a new hole to get wires up behind the center cupholder.

One complaint about the Renogy battery meter is the size of the lip. You have to make a very precise hole so as not being able to see the hole after you put the meter in it as the lip is very small. Also the clips that expand behind the mounting surface only allow for the surface to be very thin. It's not a very well though out display. The lip really needed to be larger, and some kind of screw and bracket to hold it in place would be better.
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Old 10-07-2021, 12:53 PM   #32
jhornbr225
Not Yet Wild
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 41
Default Re: Starting my EZGO Marathon Lithium build.

I have spent a couple days cleaning up the wiring on Marty.

I brought it to the house garage, as currently with my "Boy Garage" under construction, my vehicle lift is installed in the wife's garage.

I put it up on the lift and found a new path for wires to reach under the dash from under the seat. I drilled a few 3/4" holes with a step bit in two thin brackets that support the floor. I was then able to run 1/2" split loom tubing, and some grommets to protect the wire. I found a gap between the floorboard and the front panel of the cart. I was able to run the split loom tubing up that gap, and make a turn to get under the dash.

I installed more split loom tubing to clean everything up. The only mistake I made was while running a red and black 10AWG wire in the split loom up to under the dash, I also ran the multi-conductor cable for the battery monitor up there. It just so happens that the battery monitor cable looks very close to the black 10AWG. As you can probably guess, as I went to cut the black 10AWG to length, I actually cut the multi-conductor cable. Luckily it was unplugged at both ends, so no sparks. Just an enthusiastic, "Oh Shoot" as I realized my mistake. The cable is plenty long, so I stripped it back, made staggered cuts in the conductors, and soldered them back together, including the shield. Then heat shrunk it all back up.

The main power wire going between the fuse and the controller was running underneath the cart, very close to one of the 1/4-20 threaded rods I installed to hold up one of the batteries. I took that piece of threaded rod out, and covered it with some 1/4" ID clear flex tubing. I also wrapped that cable in split loom tubing. There's one more 2AWG cable underneath that gets close to a metal bracket. Some split loom tubing and wire ties will help to protect that cable.

I soldered the 10AWG wires to the plug for the voltage converter. I added a fuse on the 12V output side. There is a fuse on the input side of the converter, but it's in a silly place, right at the converter. I had already added a fuse at the battery for the voltage converter to protect the wire. I also changed the fuseholder for the keyswitch. I had been using a bakelite fuseholder with a glass fuse. I changed it to match the rest of the fuseholders, a rubberish ATC fusholder with a weather resistant rubber cap. I then started covering everything in the split loom tubing. That really cleaned things up. All the 2AWG cables paralleling up the cells still makes it look like a den of snakes, but that can't be helped.

I started mounting the battery monitor. I found that the smaller, right hand hole in the dash is just the right height to hold it. Just the right height, as in the hole is 0.020" larger than the overall height of the battery monitor. I can live with 20 thousandths of an inch. A few small cuts to make it fit will be needed. The width is too wide. I'll have to find something to fill in the gaps on the left and right. I didn't cut the whole plastic bracket thing out, as there is a hole in the back of that cavity for one of the push in plugs that mounts the dash to the cart. I want to try to maintain those if I can. I see that the hole that looks like it's for a radio is not actually deep enough for my radio, even though the radio I got does not have a tape deck or CD player. it's very shallow. I don't see how a single DIN car stereo would ever mount in there. That's going to take some cutting and fabricating, as there is another of those plugs for mounting the dash in that cavity as well. Also a metal bracket behind it for those plugs to go into.

But the good thing is that now with the work under the cart done, the cart can come off the lift, and the wife can park her car back inside.
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Old 10-12-2021, 11:27 AM   #33
jhornbr225
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E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 41
Default Re: Starting my EZGO Marathon Lithium build.

I worked on the dash for Marty, got the battery monitor and radio installed.

I was able to cut the metal bracket so the radio could fit past it, and keep the hole for the mounting plug on the right side, behind the battery monitor.

We still need to get the wife's phone to tie to the radio, as she'll be wanting to play her Pandora through there.

I was a little worried at first, with leaving the radio on while she's working out in the yard, but according to the battery meter, with the radio running at a fair volume, there is 10-12 Watts of draw from the batteries. If you really crank it up, the draw goes up to 25 Watts.

The nominal voltage for these batteries is 3.84V. With 14 in Series, that gives me a nominal voltage of 53.76V. Each battery unit is already a 2P unit of 45Ah cells, so I have 14S4P of 45Ah cells, giving me an ideal 180Ah. They are used cells, and Battery Hookup sold them as 75Ah, instead of the full 90Ah. With two strings of batteries paralleled up my actual AH is somewhere between 150-180Ah. At that 53.76V, my kWh ranges between 8,064Wh and 9,676Wh. Drawing 12 Watts with the key and radio on will give me between 672 and 806 hours. That's between 28 to 35 days. I don't think we'll leave the radio running that long.
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Old 10-15-2021, 04:17 PM   #34
jhornbr225
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E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 41
Default Re: Starting my EZGO Marathon Lithium build.

Last night I put a few finishing touches on the cart.

I removed the USB cable from the Alltrax controller, and put the rubber plug back in the USB port. It's a little difficult to reach with the battery being so close to the controller, but it's doable.

I bolted down the plastic enclosure with the BMS and regulator circuit in it, and put the cover on.

I started to put the rear seat on, but it was getting dark, and dinner was ready. I need to clean the threads on the inserts, and find some of the proper length bolts.

I figured that I'd include a picture of the dash.
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