2013 drive efi charging problem

[tailslid1]

There was no power to the green wire.

What should I check next? Thanks a ton!

Rick

[Prowlerguy1]

Find the S/G field excitation connector circled in this diagram:



Test the power on the R/W wire on the connector (not connector going to S/G, use the side of the connector going to the other way to the cart electrical system).

Check it with a voltmeter between the negative terminal on the battery to the R/W wire on that connector. It should go +12V with the key on and the pedal pressed. It should go off with pedal released (up).

You can pull the spark plug wire while doing this test to prevent the cart from starting.

If you have +12V there, then there is a problem with the connector not getting the power to the excitation field.

If there isn't +12V there, then there is a break in the R/W wire somewhere (upstream) that is bringing power to that excitation field wiring.

Tell us what you find.

Regards,
Todd

[Prowlerguy1]

While you're at it, check the voltage on the R/W wire (same way as above when you're set up as above) on the V/R connector.

There should also be +12Vdc there with the key on and pedal pressed.

We know that there is +12Vdc on the R/W wire, because it gets to the solenoid on the starter relay and you can start the cart.

But, for some reason, it's just not getting to the field excitation coil in the S/G.

There is a loss of continuity there somewhere between the R/W wire and the red wire that takes power to the excitation field on the S/G.

We just need to find the break - wherever it is.

R/Todd

[Frizbgolf]

If your generator is toast it may be worth loading it up and taking it to the closest dealer. The cart is still under warranty. As far as I know the yamaha warranty is 5 years at least it is on my sparky all except batteries only 4 years on those.

[Prowlerguy1]

Well, so far we have check and confirmed the continuity through the S/G excitation field coil. So, there shouldn't be a problem with the S/G that would cause the system to not charge the battery.

We have confirmed that power is not getting to the field excitation coil. Now, we just have to find out why.

But, if the repairs can be done under warranty, that might be a good option.

R/Todd

[tailslid1]

Prowler, that's allot to digest, but I'm going to give it a shot. I have a multimeter, so I will do what I can. Going to have reread those directions, but I will report back. I can't thank you enough for contributing your valuable time!

Rick

[Prowlerguy1]

Originally Posted by tailslid1

Prowler, that's allot to digest, but I'm going to give it a shot. I have a multimeter, so I will do what I can. Going to have reread those directions, but I will report back. I can't thank you enough for contributing your valuable time!

Rick

It's pretty simple, really. The pedal switch is the area circled in green. We know that works.



Positive 12V power comes from the pedal switch and follows the red/white wire (highlighted in red) down to the V/R, the S/C excitation coil, and the solenoid on the starter relay.

We know that power is getting to the starter relay solenoid because you can start the cart. That's indicated by the green check mark.

You are not getting power to the S/G excitation coil indicated by orange X.

We don't know abou the V/R yet, until you test it (Yellow ?).

Somehow power is not getting across the orange X to the S/G excitation coil. Probably either a broken wire, or a bad connector.

Once we know for sure if you are getting +12Vdc at the R/W wire on the S/G excitation connector - then we can figure out where to go from there.

Regards,
Todd

[tailslid1]

We have power at the r/w connected when the pedal is pushed.

I noticed something weird. I moved the s/g belt while I was testing. The fuel pump ran. I moved it again. The fuel pump ran again. If I continuously move the s/g belt back and forth the fuel pump never shuts off.

Is the fuel pump,driven from a crankshaft sensor or Is my cart possessed?

Rick

[tailslid1]

The 5 ohms of resistance from red to green on the starter generator would indicate the generator is in spec? And now we have 12 volts to the generator field. So the issue would be power exiting the generator?

Rick

[Prowlerguy1]

Originally Posted by tailslid1

The 5 ohms of resistance from red to green on the starter generator would indicate the generator is in spec? And now we have 12 volts to the generator field. So the issue would be power exiting the generator?

Rick

Yes, but when you tested the voltage on the green wire of the V/R connector (with the V/R unplugged) you said that there was no 12V. There should be - IF you have the S/G connected correctly and the V/R unplugged and testing the voltage on the green wire coming from the S/G (at the V/R connector).

So, either power on the R/W is not getting thru the S/G connector to the Red wire. Or, there is a break in the continuity on the Green wire between the S/G connector and the V/R connector.

So far, you know:
1. You have power getting to the S/G excitation field connector.
2. You have continuity through the S/G excitation coil.
3. No +12V on the green wire AT THE V/R connector with the V/R unplugged.

There has to be a problem with the connector where the Red/White & Green wires connect to the Red & Green wires at the S/G connector. Or, there is a broken green wire between the S/G connector and the V/R connector.

You can do another check and use a jumper wire to put +12Vdc power directly from the battery positive terminal into the Red wire on the S/G field excitation coil connector (S/G side). Also, ground the Green wire coming out of the S/G to battery Neg terminal. Then, start the cart. You should get >= 14V out of the S/G (recall the test where you pulled the Pos cable off the battery). If you do, the S/G is working correctly and we know that the problem lies with the wiring continuity somewhere.

If not, then there is a problem inside the S/G - but that is unlikely because there is continuity through the excitation coil.

Hope this helps. Tell us what you find.
R/Todd