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Old 02-07-2016, 03:39 PM   #21
Jack Straw
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Default Re: What do I have here?

Still going through wiring, got chewed up a bit from mice! Probably this week
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Old 02-07-2016, 03:53 PM   #22
TomStark
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Those dirty rats!

RIT rocks, cancer sucks. sent from my S5 by tap a talk
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Old 02-09-2016, 05:13 PM   #23
Jack Straw
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Okay, what am I looking at here? The black marks on the white plastic cover (1) and this arm assembly. What does it do and where does the cable go to? (2) It's just hanging right now. http://postimg.org/image/ukmn68fnt/
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Old 02-09-2016, 05:45 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Jack Straw View Post
Okay, what am I looking at here? The black marks on the white plastic cover (1) and this arm assembly. What does it do and where does the cable go to? (2) It's just hanging right now. http://postimg.org/image/ukmn68fnt/
OK, The "arm" you reference is for the governor. The cable connects to it, and goes to the carb. Notice that the accelerator cable CLOSES the throttle, not opens it. This is done to make the governor design way more simple, you can floor it, and if it gets going too fast, as the driven clutch opens, it will push against that arm and that in turn will pull the throttle closed slightly to slow the engine down. I am not sure what that black mark is around the cover on the driven clutch is. Something probably just rubbing against it.
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Old 02-09-2016, 06:07 PM   #25
Jack Straw
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Gotcha Tom. It appears that it's not necessary to run, is that so? Doesn't look like it's been hooked up for years. I see now where it connects to the carb.
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Old 02-09-2016, 06:14 PM   #26
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Gotcha Tom. It appears that it's not necessary to run, is that so? Doesn't look like it's been hooked up for years. I see now where it connects to the carb.
I think you will get differing opinions on that. I have mine disconnected. I know others have done the same. I know that my cart with the wheels in the air will only turn around 3900 rpm and depending on who you believe, my rpm limit on the motor is 4000 or 5000 rpm. So I figure under load I will never get close! (I do plan on fixing that in the summer! LOL! I hope to need some sort of rpm control, we will see!)
Tom
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Old 02-09-2016, 07:52 PM   #27
Jack Straw
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A bit more work to do on wiring. Providing it starts, how do I replace the drive belt? The existing one is pretty weathered. I saw tune up kits on ebay for around $65 for the 2 belts, 3 filters and spark plug. I already replaced the filters and plug, will I find a better deal on just the belts? http://www.ebay.com/itm/EZGO-2-Cycle...RR8BaO&vxp=mtr
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:03 PM   #28
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A bit more work to do on wiring. Providing it starts, how do I replace the drive belt? The existing one is pretty weathered. I saw tune up kits on ebay for around $65 for the 2 belts, 3 filters and spark plug. I already replaced the filters and plug, will I find a better deal on just the belts? http://www.ebay.com/itm/EZGO-2-Cycle...RR8BaO&vxp=mtr
I got a belt for my EZGO for $30 delivered on ebay. To replace the belt, spread open the driven clutch. It should open easily without any real force. Keep dropping the belt down inside the clutch as you spread it. When you have enough slack, take it off the drive clutch, then just pull it out of the driven clutch. Installation is the reverse.
Tom
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:13 PM   #29
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Thank you Tom!
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:20 PM   #30
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My pleasure! When you have it off, make sure that the clutch sheath is not cutting through the rivets that hold it on. That happened to mine. I have a thread on here with the repair I did.
Tom
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