'89 EZGO 2PG Carb Question

[thekidd76]

Already did that.

[cart around]

See if it will fire on a shot of ether. If it does, I would still say fuel delivery problem.

If it doesn't, we should start thinking about crankshaft seals, and possibly spark.

120 psi on the compression is great. Do you think somebody may have rebuilt the engine?

If so, It may be worth pulling the exhaust pipe to see if the piston is in backwards. If you can see a square hole in the side of the piston from the exhaust side, that would be bad.

You said that it drove a 1/4 mile, so I don't really suspect the piston being wrong, but stranger things have happened.

Leaking crankshaft seals have no affect on compression, so that is still a very real possibility.

[thekidd76]

I've read a couple threads about checking crankshaft seals, but everything I've read seems to be that it needs to be running so I can spray it to test. Is there another easy way to check?

[cart around]

There's nothing real reliable.

You can try removing the fuel pump, and either blowing air into the hole, or pulling a vacuum to listen for leaks. It's all hit, and miss.

[thekidd76]

So before I dug to far into that I decided to pull off the Forward and reverse switch and clean up all the contacts. When putting it all back together the cable that rings to ground on the right hand terminal got swapped with the one on the bottom that runs to the starter. Didn't realize it until I keyed it on and hit the gas. Put it back the right way and now I get nothing, doesn't turn over at all. What did I potentially fry in that 4 seconds that I'll need to look into now?

Based on page 96 of 144 of the pdf manual you posted earlier CA, I'm guessing maybe i did some damage to the solenoid? The cable for B was hooked to C and vice versa, which means the black cable on C going to the solenoid was connected to the starter instead of ground. Thoughts?

I also just thought of something. I removed what I thought was the backup buzzer before I put the switch back on. It had a red cable attached to the reverse microswitch but the black had already been cut. Since I didn't see anything else this was doing, I just left it off. I assume that's not causing any issues.

[cart around]

C goes to ground. It should have a cable to the frame. From there, there should be cables to the engine, and the negative terminal of the battery. The switch is viewed from the rear looking forward.

A is at the top. Connects to starter F-1

B passenger side. Connects to Starter A-2

C Bottom. Connects to frame, and battery negative.

D Driver's side. Connects to starter A-1

The solenoid connects to the positive battery cable, and F-2 of the starter.


The FnR switch should have 2 microswitches. The driver's side switch connects to the backup buzzer.

The passenger side switch is connected in series with the key switch, pedal switch, and small terminal of the solenoid.

The other small terminal of the solenoid goes to ground. Most carts do that by connecting to terminal C on the FnR switch.

[thekidd76]

Thanks...this is the way it's hooked up now, and does nothing. I'll test the solenoid and make sure I didn't fry that.

[thekidd76]

So looked at it again, B and D were reversed. I swapped them and got it to turn over again. Started to run so put the seat back on and then nothing. I'm getting some weird electrical cracks and clicks from the micro switch attached to the gas pedal that I haven't heard before. I guess I'll pull that off and try to clean it up unless you have any other thoughts on that.

[thekidd76]

Got the other switch cleaned up...it's back to doing what it was to begin with. Actually starts very occasionally.

So at this point, the FNR switch has been completely gone through and cleaned up all the contacts. New spark plug, fresh gas at a 128:1 mix, new fuel pump, carb cleaned twice. Other than the crank seals, any other possibilities? I was thinking about doing the HEI ignition swap to see if it's not getting enough fire, but would rather know it's working before I introduce other possible issues.

[thekidd76]

CA...asked this on another thread as well but figured I would get your opinion also. Two questions, is it easier to pull the engine to replace the crank seals or replace while installed, and second, if I'm replacing the rear should I do the front as well while I'm at it?