'89 EZGO 2PG Carb Question

[thekidd76]

CA i'm going to send you a PM with my number...text me later if you can...would like to chat with you about a couple things with this maybe on more of a real-time situation.

[cart around]

I'm not really sure where to go from here, but here are a few things to check.

Did you put the pulsar plate back in the middle for timing?

You can look at pages j-6 through j-10 for the carburetor. There is no real adjustment for the bv-18. I assume the bv-24 is the same way.

Your original pictures show some rubber reducers on the intake. Maybe that's a long shot, but it might be restricting airflow.

I would plug the holes in the muffler with screws. Maybe somebody thought they had a plugged muffler.

I would put the cart on jacks to run it. Watch both clutches for full opening, and closing. Make sure the belt rides all the way up, and all the way down.

A new belt is 1 3/16" wide. An inch or less is junk.

Remove the belt, and see how easy the cart pushes. Make sure the brakes aren't dragging.

You will lose torque with 22" tires, but it should move along pretty good on flat ground.

Check your speed with a gps.

I'm not sure where else to go, and what else to check.

[thekidd76]

Originally Posted by cart around

I'm not really sure where to go from here, but here are a few things to check.

Did you put the pulsar plate back in the middle for timing? Yes

You can look at pages j-6 through j-10 for the carburetor. There is no real adjustment for the bv-18. I assume the bv-24 is the same way.

Your original pictures show some rubber reducers on the intake. Maybe that's a long shot, but it might be restricting airflow. Runs the same with the "airbag" removed.

I would plug the holes in the muffler with screws. Maybe somebody thought they had a plugged muffler. Will do, but could this be causing the issue I'm seeing?

I would put the cart on jacks to run it. Watch both clutches for full opening, and closing. Make sure the belt rides all the way up, and all the way down. This is what I've been doing, up on stands, belt seems to ride to the same position forward and reverse.

A new belt is 1 3/16" wide. An inch or less is junk.The belt is 1 3/16"

Remove the belt, and see how easy the cart pushes. Make sure the brakes aren't dragging.Pushes fine, believe me I've had to push it many times prior to the fuel issues being straightened out. :)

You will lose torque with 22" tires, but it should move along pretty good on flat ground.

Check your speed with a gps. Did this yesterday. Speed in forward on flat ground topped out at 12, 14 in reverse, just sounds better in reverse full throttle than forward.

I'm not sure where else to go, and what else to check.

Found a couple other threads of people with similar issues with the forward and reverse thing. I swapped the F and R leads on the switch, same exact speeds. The other threads one mentioned a similar issue fixed by chancing the condenser? Ad the last one was a clutch and spring issue. What are your thoughts on those two possibilities?

[cart around]

The FnR leads do nothing, but change the direction of the starter.

You have a pulsar. There is no condenser.

I suspect one of the clutches is not operating to it's full position.
The drive clutch will ride all the way up. You should have about an 1/8" ring where it doesn't touch the top.

The driven clutch will ride all the way down to where the plates start to angle.


My driven clutch came apart once. I had to rivet a plate back on, and lubricate the shaft with dry slide (Molylube).

What kind of ground are you driving on? I can easily hit 17-18 on flat dry pavement. It's slower now in the snow.
Mine is an 87 with 18" knobbies.

[cart around]

There is one thing that I hate to suggest because it doesn't happen as much as people believe it does. You might have a clogged muffler that needs to be barbecued.

What did the pipe look like when you had it removed? Clean, and dry, or caked with oil?

You could loosen the pipe at the muffler, and see if it goes any faster.

[BrewCityMusic]

Did You reinstall the factory oiler when You pulled everything apart? It's common for air leaks to develop when messing with those, in fact on your cart I would *highly* recommend pulling the whole oiler assembly, plugging the hole in the intake where the oiler line used to hook up with a 10mm screw (if I remember, it's been awhile since I messed w 2-strokes, could be an 8mm) and running 128:1 premix. Those almost-30-year-old oilers are prone to failure, give no warning when it happens, and *poof* there goes your engine.

Anyhow, if there's a leak somewhere in the oiler or lines it will cause you to run very lean and have no power or very little, so again, do it as a preventative measure either way but I would think that could be part of your problem

[thekidd76]

I'll loosen the muffler tomorrow and try again, but it currently has two 1/2" holes in the bottom that someone drilled so shouldn't be restricted.

Factory oiler assembly is on the cart but capped, same with the intake hole.

It seems to be getting good power, I may just be expecting more from it than I should be with the tires that are on it. Tested flat out today on dry blacktop and i get 14 in forward and 17 in reverse before I run out of road. Torque going uphill isn't great. I've read about trying a shorter belt, or ungraded clutch spring. Any thoughts on those ideas?

[thekidd76]

Brew City...interested in anymore feedback you have here. I found your old thread about the testing you didi with your carts like this. I'm still only getting about 17 on a flat out paved road. Still slightly faster in reverse. Pulling up slight inclines is where it really bogs down, on a very slight incline it's 10 in forward, 12 in reverse, on a steeper maybe 30% incline i'm dropping to about 6 in forward. I'm not getting anywhere near the speed you were in your tests with the BV24 carb. It also has a new fuel pump. Can you tune these carbs at all? Any guidance would be appreciated.