98 gas EZGO runs then sputters out

[Styles]

***Updates***

After being gone for a week on vaca I've been home and taken the cart out for a few. I played a round of 9 holes and made it home.....BUT, it would try to not fire and or sputter every time I would go. Every time. If I play with the choke I could get it going and it would take off. I took it out last night and still the same, so it's consistent.

So I know the wiring can still be cleaned up with replacing some corroded wires, but now it also seems to have some kind of fuel/carb issue too...... I think, hahahaha

[CP241]

If pulling on the choke helps it out, then pull the carb and clean it really well. Blow all of the passages out with compressed air and let us know. That should take care of that, unless it's REALLY cold (which rarely ever happens here) I never need to touch the choke on any of mine.

[Styles]

Hey yo guys-

I’ve cleaned the carb, it was pretty clean inside to begin with. It still needs to have the choke pulled slightly on every start. I bought this cart through a local shop. Last week I got the number of the previous owner. He said that he had the same issues too and the shop I bought it from had cleaned the carb before and it helped for a while then needed the choke pulled on every start too.

So what should I look at next? New carb?


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[trig123]

Many times the main nozzle will be stopped up. It is almost impossible to remove so no way really to see if it is clean.
If your compression is good ( 170 psi is best ) and the intake valves are not showing more threads than exhaust when you adjust them then yes buy a new carburetor from Ezgo. Not aftermarket one.

[Canucgolfer]

Well guys I'm back again. Cart has been running pretty darn good since I fixed the wiring problem. Now it's starting to crap out again. So what's happening now as it was before, sputters out and dies then won't run again. Different issue now is the plugs are getting fouled. Take them out and they are soaked. Clear too much fuel. Funny thing is after I fixed the wiring issue it ran great for many rounds before this started happening. Now it seems like I can't even get a round in without it crapping out. Anyway need to limit the fuel flow into the carb or rather limit the fuel into the cylinders is what I'm thinking. I assume it's just one of the screw adjustments on the carb? Or do I need to pull the carb apart and change some jets?

On another note sorry to hear you haven't gotten that thing sorted out styles.

[Styles]

Canuc- Thanks man. I think I got it!!!!

I got a new carb thanks to Tom! But I’m not sure that was the only part that fixed it. While putting the new carb on and testing in neutral I noticed a little fuel spraying out of the main fuel line[emoji15] I’ve run this thing a ton of times testing and never saw that. When I took the line off is was pretty worn/cracked. I bought some new line and all good now. So my thoughts are that the line was seeping and once warmer it wasn’t pumping all the fuel into the carb.

Thanks for all your guys help. Canuc maybe check all your fuel lines, replace them. They’re cheap.


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[trig123]

Originally Posted by Styles

Canuc- Thanks man. I think I got it!!!!

I got a new carb thanks to Tom! But I’m not sure that was the only part that fixed it. While putting the new carb on and testing in neutral I noticed a little fuel spraying out of the main fuel line[emoji15] I’ve run this thing a ton of times testing and never saw that. When I took the line off is was pretty worn/cracked. I bought some new line and all good now. So my thoughts are that the line was seeping and once warmer it wasn’t pumping all the fuel into the carb.

Thanks for all your guys help. Canuc maybe check all your fuel lines, replace them. They’re cheap.


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I would say to anyone who has these issues is to first replace old fuel line with new. They age like me do Easy to do and you have eliminated that .

Make sure the line clamps are tight. Don't cut your arm with those sharp spring clamps like I have done .

As we age like those fuel lines our skin gets thin. I have ripped my arm more than once just scrapping against a zip tie someone cut off and left part sticking out.
Just wait and if you make it to your 70's like me you will see what I talking about cutting your arms with just a slight touch of something

[CP241]

Originally Posted by trig123

I would say to anyone who has these issues is to first replace old fuel line with new. They age like me do Easy to do and you have eliminated that .

Make sure the line clamps are tight. Don't cut your arm with those sharp spring clamps like I have done .

As we age like those fuel lines our skin gets thin. I have ripped my arm more than once just scrapping against a zip tie someone cut off and left part sticking out.
Just wait and if you make it to your 70's like me you will see what I talking about cutting your arms with just a slight touch of something

I've been in the automotive industry for a long time. My pet peeve is zip ties not being cut flush. They may as well be razor blades. I've almost needed stitches from reaching up into a dash to grab a connector and finding a jewel somebody left behind cut at an angle... I have a special set of cutters that I only use to clip zip ties. I used to have a nice set of snap on flush cuts, but someone wanted them more than me. So I took a cheap pair to a grinder and ground the back side so its flat. Works just as well as the $60 snap on ones did

Just to add to that, old fuel lines do deteriorate and not only can they crack, but they can break down inside the lines over time where you cant see as well. the deteriorated rubber will end up inside a freshly cleaned carb and cause problems.

I always like to use the clear fuel lines so I can see the fuel flowing through them. Helps with troubleshooting sometimes as well if you're having a fuel delivery problem you can get 5ft for 6 or 7 bucks which is plenty for 1 cart.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by CP241

I've been in the automotive industry for a long time. My pet peeve is zip ties not being cut flush. They may as well be razor blades. I've almost needed stitches from reaching up into a dash to grab a connector and finding a jewel somebody left behind cut at an angle... I have a special set of cutters that I only use to clip zip ties. I used to have a nice set of snap on flush cuts, but someone wanted them more than me. So I took a cheap pair to a grinder and ground the back side so its flat. Works just as well as the $60 snap on ones did

Just to add to that, old fuel lines do deteriorate and not only can they crack, but they can break down inside the lines over time where you cant see as well. the deteriorated rubber will end up inside a freshly cleaned carb and cause problems.

I always like to use the clear fuel lines so I can see the fuel flowing through them. Helps with troubleshooting sometimes as well if you're having a fuel delivery problem you can get 5ft for 6 or 7 bucks which is plenty for 1 cart.

It would very helpful if the administrators here would add these things and name it ! Before You Post !
Check compression and be ready to post results making sure throttle is wide open when checking.

Adjust valves to .004 and look for the tell tell sign on intake valves showing more threads than exhaust.
Check or replace fuel line and filter, almost making sure the fuel is free of water and clean
Use on spark tester that looks like a spark plug and not one of those inline testers
Clean mounting plate where the ignitors mounts bolts on, making sure you are getting 100% ground.
OHM wires that go to ignition system to make sure you have continuity, being sure to look good at male and female connectors .
Only buy OEM ignition and carburetors from ezgo even if they cost a lot. A saving in the long run.
Label it what to do first if my cart won't run or something similar. If they don't follow then we don't help.
And WATCH out for those cut off Zip Ties

[CP241]

Originally Posted by trig123

It would very helpful if the administrators here would add these things and name it ! Before You Post !
Check compression and be ready to post results making sure throttle is wide open when checking.

Adjust valves to .004 and look for the tell tell sign on intake valves showing more threads than exhaust.
Check or replace fuel line and filter, almost making sure the fuel is free of water and clean
Use on spark tester that looks like a spark plug and not one of those inline testers
Clean mounting plate where the ignitors mounts bolts on, making sure you are getting 100% ground.
OHM wires that go to ignition system to make sure you have continuity, being sure to look good at male and female connectors .
Only buy OEM ignition and carburetors from ezgo even if they cost a lot. A saving in the long run.
Label it what to do first if my cart won't run or something similar. If they don't follow then we don't help.
And WATCH out for those cut off Zip Ties

Great info. Maybe start that in a new post so someone can sticky is? There is a thread in the stickys in the yamaha section "So your yami won't turn over..." that's similar. There's some good info in there, but it's all kinda one lump paragraph so you have to take your time to read through it. There's always gonna be people that don't read it, and skip over the sticky section, but it may give the standard troubleshooting steps to some people that do try and research before asking common questions.