89 Pg3 low power and carb overflowing

[Skillz Construction]

Hi all. I purchased an 89 Marathon 3pg that was not running and have been working on it. This forum has really helped me out!
So far I have replaced crank seals, engine gaskets, piston rings, fuel pump, carburetor, installed HEI conversion, new spark plug and wire. I have 120 lbs compression now and good blue spark.
I have gotten it running but the carb leaks out the overflow. I set up a gravity feed and it didn't leak. I have tried to adjust the float bowl several times but it continues to leak when supplied by the fuel pump.
Also when I drove it with the gravity feed I still was only getting about 2 mph with it floored. So I may have more than one issue. Any suggestions?

[Timberwolflt]

Your needle and seat isn’t working properly... if it was working, even a high pressure pump wouldn’t push fuel past it

If it’s running but not moving you’re gonna need to look at your drive clutches and belt

[Skillz Construction]

Thanks for the reply. I'm on my second new carb and they have leaked the same. I have opened and cleaned and the seat and needle several times so not sure where to go from there.
I do see that my drive clutch seems a little soft and my belt may be loose. Should the drive clutch be pretty easy to push over by hand? Mine is. The driven clutch seems a lot more stiff.

[Timberwolflt]

Apparently the bypass on your fuel pump isn’t functioning properly

Got pictures of the clutches? We like pictures... They say they’re worth a thousand words

[Skillz Construction]

Here are some pics:

[Timberwolflt]

Looks normal in the pics... if it hasn’t been driven in a long while... The drive clutch may need cleaning... it may be stove up and not functioning...

The smart guys should along soon

[Skillz Construction]

The drive clutch engages although maybe a little late due to a somewhat loose belt (in my opinion) but I haven't been able to get the driven clutch to move. I wonder if it's a little stuck or something. Or maybe I should be getting better performance out of my engine and just haven't hit the RPMs yet? I'm going to try a trick I saw a guy do in a video to clean the seat for the needle out with a drill bit, q-tip, and metal polish.

[Timberwolflt]

It doesn’t take a whole bunch of RPMs to have the clutch engage.... I’m bettin it runs really strong at 2mph... your driven clutch has probably rusted on the shaft just enoug where it’s not working properly... if it can’t open... it can’t speed up any

I wouldn’t go drilling on your carb just yet. It’s unlikely you’ve had 2 bad needle valves... I’d look closer at the pump and make sure the bypass is functioning...

The worst thing that you can do to these things is not run them

These guys will be on soon and they’ve run up against just about everything collectively

[cart around]

Let's start with a few basic questions.
Can you post a youtube video, so I can hear it, and see it run? I want to watch the clutches.
Did you for sure install the piston with the square side ports facing the intake side?
How wide is your drive belt? 1 3/16" is new. Anything less than an inch is junk. Are you using a stock pulse pump, and not electric?
Did you switch the red, and blue pulsar wires to see which way runs best?


This is the stock pump. There are two diaphragms, two check valves, and one each intake chamber, and output chamber. There is no bypass. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...fuel-pump.html

[Skillz Construction]

I'll try to do a video later so you can see and hear. That's a good idea.
The piston holes are facing the intake. Although it wasn't when I took it apart. My pump looks exactly like the one in the link you sent. If a diaphragm got stretched a little do you think it would pump more? Last time I took it apart it was all intact but did seem a little loose. I tightened it up.
I did switch the pulsar wires and I think it was cutting out more when I had it the other way. I could try that again though to be sure.
Thanks