Stretching a G1

[mwar410]

Getting ready to do some frame modifications for clutch clearance then adding 2" of lift and ATV shocks.
Thought while I was at it, it would be nice to have a few more inches between the steering wheel and my gut. Where's the best place to cut and add around 3" of length? Haven't got to looking it over yet, but wanted some info on how to go about it/or if it's a PITA to do.
Thanks

[smokindawg]

I'm lengthening mine by about 3 inches, but I'm moving the body back by cutting the rear bumper mount loose and putting spacers in. This also moves the mounting hinges back for the body. Of course I have about 12" of lift.

You could cut the frame right under the floorboard, but will need a longer brake cable for the rear passenger side. But that should work, then just extend the floor pan with some steel plate.

[mwar410]

So you're not going to effect the wheelbase, just moving the body back. With my utility body I wouldn't have enought clearance in front of muffler and battery to move it back.
Side pieces of floor are shot and on the list of things to do. Replacing the floor pan with diamond plate wouldn't be that bad. Longer brake cable? Maybe I can find a way to extend it without effecting the pedals.

[smokindawg]

Well, I am changing the engine in mine too a Big Block 25hp V-twin. I also already stretched my wheel base with the lift kit. I moved the wheels forward about 2 1/2" when I built the lift. I also dropped the front of the swing arm and moved it back about 5". So just moving the mounts on mine didn't cause any problems.

On yours the best way to stretch it would most likely be to cut the frame under the floorboard area and stretch it there. You could do it without replacing the longer brake cable, but I think you'd still have to replace the drivers side cable (If I remember that's the shorter one) with another passenger side, which is longer. Then you just have to extend your floorboard a bit when you replace that. You may also have to do a bit of re-routing on your throttle cable and wiring to make the stretch. It's doable, but will be a bit of work. Not overly complicated, but it will be time consuming.

[TSM35]

Originally Posted by mwar410

Getting ready to do some frame modifications for clutch clearance then adding 2" of lift and ATV shocks.
Thought while I was at it, it would be nice to have a few more inches between the steering wheel and my gut. Where's the best place to cut and add around 3" of length? Haven't got to looking it over yet, but wanted some info on how to go about it/or if it's a PITA to do.
Thanks

Stretching my G1 was one of the best things I did to it. Much better look and more room for driver. I also cut part of the front bodywork for clearance then added flares. There's another thread someone did a few years ago that is just like mine. I took a lot of ideas from him.

I cut the frame just behind the shock towers, inserted the correct O.D. tube inside and welded it up. I had to weld a bar between the frame rails to hold the steering bracket. The whole thing took about an hour once the body was off. I stretched it so the bodywork would sit just in front of the floor pan, probably 2-3 inches. I cut off the mounts for the bodywork and made new ones forward of the floor pan with some 1 inch flat stock bent to match the slope of the bodywork. Really easy if you have any welding and metal working skills. No need to modify brake or throttle cables since stretch is in front of the them.

I added a Jake's 6 inch lift with 22 inch tires and painted it with U-Pol Raptor liner tinted with Ferrari Roso Corso Red (looks better in person). Next time I have the tubing bender out I'll make some front and rear bumpers. I haven't decided what to do about front and rear seats. I stayed with the stock shocks because they were new and I have plenty of clearance with them. I have 900 acres surrounded by a river and it goes anywhere I want to go. We use our G1 daily from early spring until well into November.

[TSM35]

Here's a photo of the frame before cutting. You can see the two frame rails, steering bracket and bodywork mounts that need to be cut and relocated. I cut the frame between the shock tower and the bend in the frame allowing plenty of room to weld on both ends.

[TSM35]

if you zoom in over the front wheel you can see where the frame was stretched.

[mwar410]

Yeah, that's what I'm looking for. Ill be cutting and moving shock mounts for the pachanga style lift. It should be pretty easy when everything is out of the way. Nothing else really would need to be modified.