Basic Nissan Leaf 7 module Lithium setup with Generic Chinese BMS

[AussieInSeattle]

Originally Posted by Sergio

AussieInSeattle, I think I remembered testing if the connector would go sideways through the cable gland and it did, but You can certainly get the largest cable gland You can find to guarantee that it will.

Maybe you can exit the wires through one side of the battery box that would act as the "hinge" side so the entire top lid can be lifted to that side.

Those solder-less plug-gable terminal blocks are hard to find, but if You mount it on the outside, here are some ideas:

DIN rail style connectors (need to id each wire bundle to prevent misconnection):

https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-S...9/ref=sr_1_16?

Buy phoenix type connectors of different sizes (5,6,7) so there is no mixing up:

https://www.environmentallights.com/...phx6-pair.html

Thanks for doing some research - I'd found the DIN rail style ones but not the phoenix type connectors - they look promising and great idea on using different sizes so you cant mix up the order accidentally! that's likely why my BMS has an 11-pin and 10-pin JST for it's cables - will re-work my design and post back here with what I come up with or will put it in my build thread that I plan on starting once the batteries arrive.

[yensidcamper]

Looking for an opinion. TahoeDawg commented to me that it isn't a good idea to run more than 48V through the standard Curtis 1515-5201 250A controller. I am sure he is right. For now, I rarely use this cart. I run around the neighborhood about once a week and take it on 2 or 3 camping trips a year. What is the worst that is likely to happen to the controller? If it stops working not a big deal as my next planned upgrade is an Alltrax, which I was hoping would wait till spring. If this thing is likely to catch on fire then that is another issue. Any ideas what damage running 56 volts into this controller will cause?

[ACCLR8N]

Thanks for all this great information Sergio et al. I am blatantly copying Sergio's design. I am running into stock/supply problems ordering parts. Have to order UY600 charger and swap out connector, 120 vac relay from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BMGRPWQ...v_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07587NZTC...v_ov_lig_dp_it

Can somebody provide the dimensions for the Leaf module busbars? I would like to get these made while waiting for shipping. Hoping to be driving in August.

[PingEye3]

Originally Posted by ACCLR8N

Thanks for all this great information Sergio et al. I am blatantly copying Sergio's design. I am running into stock/supply problems ordering parts. Have to order UY600 charger and swap out connector, 120 vac relay from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BMGRPWQ...v_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07587NZTC...v_ov_lig_dp_it

Can somebody provide the dimensions for the Leaf module busbars? I would like to get these made while waiting for shipping. Hoping to be driving in August.

Bus Bars. See attached pdf

[Sergio]

yensidcamper, The biggest issue would be the Regen brake current as it would certainly trigger the HV of the BMS.

I did run a test one time with my Curtis Excel 1515-5201 with Lead Acid batteries to see how it would behave on higher voltage.

I unplugged the cart during the end of the charge, the battery was around 55v and dropping, I drove up my hill and drove down at full speed and then set the Regen brake.

The voltage quickly got up to around 63V and then all Regen brake was gone and I had to skid the last few yards before my driveway.

Your BMS should shutdown on HV long before 60V so that will be a concern.

That issue would not occur on an Alltrax Controller where You can setup the "Over Voltage" setting below the BMS HV cuttoff setting.


ACCLR8N, I have purchased the same 120VAC from Amazon as well.

[AussieInSeattle]

Originally Posted by ACCLR8N

Thanks for all this great information Sergio et al. I am blatantly copying Sergio's design. I am running into stock/supply problems ordering parts. Have to order UY600 charger and swap out connector, 120 vac relay from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BMGRPWQ...v_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07587NZTC...v_ov_lig_dp_it

Can somebody provide the dimensions for the Leaf module busbars? I would like to get these made while waiting for shipping. Hoping to be driving in August.

I am doing a September build. I'm waiting on my cells to arrive. When you change the voltage on the UY600 could you please see how low it goes? Or does anyone else know? I'm using LifePo4 cells and may set them to 54.4v (3.4v/cell) or 56v (3.5v/cell). The spec sheet has them maxing out at 3.65v but not many Ah above 3.4v and would also result in more cycles because 4000 might not be enough :-).

[yensidcamper]

Originally Posted by Sergio

yensidcamper, The biggest issue would be the Regen brake current as it would certainly trigger the HV of the BMS.

I did run a test one time with my Curtis Excel 1515-5201 with Lead Acid batteries to see how it would behave on higher voltage.

I unplugged the cart during the end of the charge, the battery was around 55v and dropping, I drove up my hill and drove down at full speed and then set the Regen brake.

The voltage quickly got up to around 63V and then all Regen brake was gone and I had to skid the last few yards before my driveway.

Your BMS should shutdown on HV long before 60V so that will be a concern.

That issue would not occur on an Alltrax Controller where You can setup the "Over Voltage" setting below the BMS HV cuttoff setting.


ACCLR8N, I have purchased the same 120VAC from Amazon as well.

I haven't had a HV shutdown yet... As long as the controller won't catch fire, tear up the motor, or overload the batteries, that is all I care about. If it fizzles out then no big deal I will just have to move up plans to get an Alltrax. I am trying to do one major upgrade each year and the Alltrax is next spring before we take it on a week long camping trip.

[AussieInSeattle]

@Sergio - as I wait for my batteries to arrive I'm planning the 12V part of the system. Currently I have a 15A 48v to 12v converter wired to a switch on the dash labelled "12 volt" so I can switch the converter (and thus all 12v loads) on/off manually - since the 48v to 12v converter is wired directly to the pack there is a chance of someone leaving a 12v load on accidentally for a long period and draining the pack without the BMS being able to stop it at LVD right? I think I need to add another 48V relay similar to K1 but I'm not entirely sure how to wire it. My current converter is 15A but I'll likely upgrade to a 30A or higher as part of this whole process.

Also for the Key Switch Interupt via the controller - does this mean I need to have the Ignition Key in the On position in order to charge the cart?

[Sergio]

AussieInSeattle, if You are using the original layout in the first post with the three relays then the Key Switch has no effect on the Controller when You have 120VAC connected to the cart.

In any case the Controller is not needed for the charger to work.

If You get a new 12v converter that has a "trigger" wire (low current), You can just connect that wire to the K1 output (N.O.) and the converter only comes ON if the Key Switch is ON and not charging (plugged to 120VAC) or to K1 input (COM) so the converter comes ON with the Key Switch regardless if the charger is ON.

If You get another converter that does not have a trigger wire or prefer to have the converter fully disconnected from the pack when not in use, You will need another relay like K1 (48v SPST) and a fly-back diode for its coil.

The relay coil positive would connect to the K1 input (COM) or output (N.O.) as above depending when your preference for when it can turn ON.

My personal preference if long term storage is a concern would be to use the "trigger" wire option and have the converter power run through a simple ON/OFF switch for "long term storage" since turning the converter power ON/OFF with a switch or relay often is hard on its internal filter capacitors.

[AussieInSeattle]

Originally Posted by Sergio

AussieInSeattle, if You are using the original layout in the first post with the three relays then the Key Switch has no effect on the Controller when You have 120VAC connected to the cart.

In any case the Controller is not needed for the charger to work.

If You get a new 12v converter that has a "trigger" wire (low current), You can just connect that wire to the K1 output (N.O.) and the converter only comes ON if the Key Switch is ON and not charging (plugged to 120VAC) or to K1 input (COM) so the converter comes ON with the Key Switch regardless if the charger is ON.

If You get another converter that does not have a trigger wire or prefer to have the converter fully disconnected from the pack when not in use, You will need another relay like K1 (48v SPST) and a fly-back diode for its coil.

The relay coil positive would connect to the K1 input (COM) or output (N.O.) as above depending when your preference for when it can turn ON.

My personal preference if long term storage is a concern would be to use the "trigger" wire option and have the converter power run through a simple ON/OFF switch for "long term storage" since turning the converter power ON/OFF with a switch or relay often is hard on its internal filter capacitors.

Thanks - appreciate it as always - its less about long term storage and more about my kids forgetting to turn something off after use :-). I'll work out which converter I'm getting (with or without a trigger) and circle back with a diagram (that might also help others) if I get one without a trigger wire.

I'm also looking at 48v heaters for when the battery build is done - I dont think those have trigger wires so would need to go with the additional relay approach for that anyway.