EZGO Workhorse / Jacobsen Build

[slonomo]

Perfect photos guys, that helps a ton! I'm thinking steel the whole way, I can just cut and weld, make some pie cuts for the gentle curves, looks totally doable. You guys rock!!

[slonomo]

Ok guys, advice needed. On this cart I have to use the choke every single time I get in to drive. Once the engine is running I can let go of the choke and it drives just fine. If I stop, need to use the choke to start it again (even at operating temp).

Is this just a matter of adjusting the low speed idle circuit on these carbs? Could it be that far off? I tried one turn in and one turn out from the current setting with no change. Usually most carbs are factory set in the 1.5 turn out range. Could this carb be much different? What's your experiences with this carb?

[JPonLKN]

What are your plugs telling you? Rich, lean? Are you using the stock muffler, air filter, all the carb gaskets are in good condition and sealed tight to the head? I had that happen on one and it turned out to be an issue with the carb gaskets and the carb not seating tight. It was getting air in behind the carb.

[slonomo]

Originally Posted by JPonLKN

What are your plugs telling you? Rich, lean? Are you using the stock muffler, air filter, all the carb gaskets are in good condition and sealed tight to the head? I had that happen on one and it turned out to be an issue with the carb gaskets and the carb not seating tight. It was getting air in behind the carb.

This is a M&M rebuilt engine and I used all new carb gaskets when I installed. It starts and runs great. I have not looked at the plugs, I can do that. Everything is stock on this cart. I reused the old carb, just cleaned it really well. Didn't even adjust is and it started up instantly, with the choke of course.

I suppose it could have a small leak somewhere.

[Cartmaster]

If you look at the carb top you will see a transition jet that you can unscrew. Take this out and there should be a long tube fitted to it. This may have fallen out of the cap. If not it may need cleaning. Also if you remove the air filter, you will see a drilling at the front right bottom of the carb face. You may need to clean this out. I do it with a few twists of copper wire strands for a snug fit. This feeds the transition tube are and from there feeds a tiny drilling at the rear of the carb. It's best to remove the carb, strip it completely and ream out the drilling with the wire twist, and then with carb or brake cleaner, spray through all drilling and jets to confirm they are clear and passing the cleaners through ok. The drillings at the rear of the carb are tiny and not easily seen if the carb is dirty. This should solve the problem you have! Because you have no idle on these things, the transition jetting is critical for allowing pickup and acceleration on these engines.

EDIT.
the idle adjuster basically does nothing, as the engine does not use the idle circuit. That's why adjusting the screw makes no difference. When we were on "another forum" before this one was started. A member named "Bob O" always recommended this procedure as did I and a few others frequent this forum still.

[slonomo]

Originally Posted by Cartmaster

If you look at the carb top you will see a transition jet that you can unscrew. Take this out and there should be a long tube fitted to it. This may have fallen out of the cap. If not it may need cleaning. Also if you remove the air filter, you will see a drilling at the front right bottom of the carb face. You may need to clean this out. I do it with a few twists of copper wire strands for a snug fit. This feeds the transition tube are and from there feeds a tiny drilling at the rear of the carb. It's best to remove the carb, strip it completely and ream out the drilling with the wire twist, and then with carb or brake cleaner, spray through all drilling and jets to confirm they are clear and passing the cleaners through ok. The drillings at the rear of the carb are tiny and not easily seen if the carb is dirty. This should solve the problem you have! Because you have no idle on these things, the transition jetting is critical for allowing pickup and acceleration on these engines.

Thanks for this. I remember soaking and cleaning that carb. I did get some little torch cleaners and sewing needles in those little jets. I don't remember if I removed any of them. I definitely sprayed all of them out several times, but maybe there is something still in there. It was a filthy mess. Maybe that's the next step, then I can look at the gaskets and plugs at the same time.

[Cartmaster]

I just added to my last post with a bit more info for you.

[slonomo]

I totally get the idle thing. But isn't that circuit also used throughout the rpm range? Doesn't one jet add to another through it's progression of the throttle? I always thought that the idle air circuit also affects the low speed circuit, no?

Or is your point that the idle air screw does nothing for "idling" because the engine isn't set up to "idle"?

[Cartmaster]

Maybe it does! But if you make sure all jets and drillings are clear, you should solve the issue. I prefer to use soft probes to clean the drillins as things like torch cleaners can enlarge the drilling and richen the mix.

[slonomo]

Originally Posted by Cartmaster

Maybe it does! But if you make sure all jets and drillings are clear, you should solve the issue. I prefer to use soft probes to clean the drillins as things like torch cleaners can enlarge the drilling and richen the mix.

Agreed!